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#43 | |
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Quote:
Dampers/Springs -> Sways (to fine tune effective spring rates) -> alignment -> tire pressure That is listed roughly in the order of significance. I understand why sways are so popular: they're relatively inexpensive (many options for a few hundred bucks), and can have a large effect on how the car handles, but we'd like to get our dampers and springs completely dialed in before using sways. We'll be revisiting this at some point
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#44 |
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If you guys ever go FI I have a high capacity radiator for you to test.
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#45 |
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#46 | |
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Winter and bad weather in general, all of that gets into the engine bay, leaves, dust, dirt debris, moisture, salt, rain etc.
Quote:
Driver > Tires > Alignment > Front ARB Just keep that in mind when you are doing your helpful threads. You are by far one of the more helpful people on the forum.
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#47 | |
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Quote:
The original order I posted is a "ideal" case where you're not limited/restricted on modifications by classing and/or budget. Your order is far more realistic
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#48 | |
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You can tell @Dave-ROR, I'll get a couple shots of the chicken fried steak for you while I'm out there today for rain boot testing |
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#49 |
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#50 |
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Can you do a review of which fast food cup design is most stable during track days?
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#51 |
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Does a strut brace (or any of the many other superfluous braces) make for quicker lap times (I'd guess not - not on a modern car).
Does an under-drive/light weight pulley make the car lap any faster? (I believe the theory, but not so much the real world application) |
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#52 | |
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Quote:
Some are designed to operate at their peak without heat (but "drop off"), while others are like driving on ice until they're in excess of 180F (R-Comps). Street tires (Star Spec, Azenis): Grippy when cold, fall off when hot (typically above 160F). Road Race R-Comps (R6/C51): Very little grip when cold, maximum grip when hot (between 180-220F) and don't fall off until that is exceeded or the number heat cycles is exceeded. R-Comp Autocross (A6/C71): R-comp that is designed with maximum grip at low temps, for short durations (specifically auto-crossing). So GTM, what were those 255's in regards to their compound? Someone earlier (I think D1cker) said he was fastest on the 225's but briefly and I surmise he was not on an R-comp but instead a street tire. It is possible, GTM that if your 255 was a street compound that you were "over-tired" until they began to get hot which then you started to see improved lap times or is that the 255 in the compound you were using took 7-8 laps to reach peak grip and ideal operating temp? Thank you for sharing.
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#53 |
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#54 | |
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Additional testing will be performed upon donation of fresh iced coffee; credit will be given to the donor. |
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#55 | |
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Quote:
Our 225 A6s fell off after 4 or 5 laps in 60 degree weather - they were quite old and had many track records on them in TTC and TTB trim. Even after a rolling cool down lap, all subsequent fast laps were not as fast as lap 3/4. It was impossible to bring them back down to a good temp without bringing the car off the track (which is to be expected). For a newer, less experienced driver, I'd say it's better to over tire and be able to drive consistent, safe, fast laps, lap after lap, so I'd go with a 245 or 255. For more experienced drivers that are okay with a looser car, a 225 or 235 may be the way to go because you'll put more of an emphasis on lap times. We will be testing the 225 vs 255 theory out in the next few weeks using brand new Bridgestone RE-11A and running them in back to back sessions at Gingerman. |
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#56 |
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Thank you. BTW I mean my last question to begin with "IS IT" instead of "IT IS". The interrogative was the intention.
Nonetheless thanks for the info and clarity. I like your approach to tire recommendation for HPDE regarding heat capacity/safety.
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