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#85 | |
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Quote:
Then there's the whole 'warranty' issue...
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2013 Subaru BRZ
Last edited by orthojoe; 04-02-2013 at 01:13 PM. |
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#87 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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2013 Subaru BRZ
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#88 | |
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Senior Member
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I found this the other day. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hddJJ59P9jc"]PhastekPerformance.com - Perrin Tuned Vortech Supercharged Scion FRS @ Texas World Speedway (TX2k13) - YouTube[/ame] |
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#89 | |
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My VTEC fluid is full
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Just because you were able to chase & keep up on the tight corners (with these particular GT3s) doesn't mean that your FR-S can out brake/corner a properly driven GT3 (with race tires no less). That is my argument. Nothing more. |
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#90 | |
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Track Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Looks fast, the driver is a bit novice but the power the car makes is awesome. I lapped a 2:04.7 in the same track with my setup, a supercharger would have helped in the long ass straight as well as powering away from corners.
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I guess you may be right then a 25k car will never beat a GT-3 no matter how much money you dump into it just because the other car is a Porsche, and this will just be a little cheap scion.
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#91 |
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Problem is the title on the video: First time on track EVER.
A newb not running into any overheat issues is not a data point. (please nobody post that vid as a FRS hunting a GTR.... please...)
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#92 |
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Track Junkie
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Oil cooler, vented hood, thermostat, and maybe even a ticker core radiator might take care of any over heating issues. I still want FI since i am being left behind in the straights in faster tracks.
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Compensating a heavy car with horsepower is like giving an alcoholic cocaine to sober him up...
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#93 | |
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A GT3 RS 4.0 makes 500hp and weighs 3000lbs. 350hp in a 2400lb car still doesn't get you the same power/weight ratio. If you pass one, it's because you were the better driver, not because you had a better/similarly capable car. Keep in mind you can get a 996 GT3 in the 50k range, and a 997.1 in the 70k range. I suppose if you dump enough money it would possible, but it makes no sense to do something like that. The car will be operating way past what it was designed for. You will have reliability issues. What happens all the time is someone has a monster build, the dyno is fantastic, and everyone applauds and gives each other high fives. A few weeks later, the owner is silent. No followup. Then word of a failure/mechanical issue occurs. The owner says no big deal, fixes it. Then the car is up for sale soon after. Happens EVERY time. I wish you luck on this endeavor and eagerly await the results. I hope my predictions on the outcome are wrong. I've come to realize that if you're not happy with the stock power output on your car (exception of basic bolt-ons), the answer is to get a different car if you value reliability. It's very difficult to beat OEM engineering. I've learned the hard way.
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2013 Subaru BRZ
Last edited by orthojoe; 04-02-2013 at 07:31 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to orthojoe For This Useful Post: | heeltoe86 (04-02-2013) |
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#94 |
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Member
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I'm siding with Orthojoe on this. If you want to beat fast cars, just start with a fast car itself. I always see issues with highly modified cars on track. The more they're modded the higher the risk of failure no matter how safe the tune or the engine build. Building a car to go fast on a track instead of the reliability that the OEMs developed, you end up counting the hours of run time rather than miles in terms of rebuild/maintenance. Overall I'd just like to drive on the track in a fast car with little to no reliability issue. Which I have as one of my part time jobs in Vegas.
![]() I also would like to see the results with FI on these cars driven by pcasso which would be a really good data point IMHO.
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2013 Ultramarine FR-S daily/trackwhore
1986 Toyota AE86 (sold) 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser (sold) 2006 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner (sold) 1996 Honda Civic (sold) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to heeltoe86 For This Useful Post: | orthojoe (04-02-2013) |
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#95 |
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If you want a true giant killer that will be 'cheap', take a look at the new 2014 Camaro Z/28. I'm not kidding. Hell has frozen over because I never thought I'd consider an american car before. Will run a circuit just as fast as the GT3RS for less than 1/2 the cost (close to 1/3). Purpose built for the track. Ceramic brakes standard. Weight loss program (still heavy, though), NA motor (500hp), factory racing suspension, factory cooling system, everything you need for the track. To top it off, they flat out state that they will honor the warranty even with TRACK use. Hard to beat that.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to orthojoe For This Useful Post: | heeltoe86 (04-03-2013) |
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#96 | |
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Sorry dude, I have no idea how you figure the title has anything to do with him not overheating. I could see your point if this was just a guy out for a Sunday drive. Sounds like a straw man argument there. I know some setups have ran into a heating issue (VMC car during the Drive interview), but this does not equate to every setup of F/I on every car driven on a track as you seem to imply in your original comment regarding F/I and track days. |
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#97 | |||
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Senior Member
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So much Flawed logic with this thinking, sorry. That is a total fail of a statement. You can "build" a Giant killer from what was not otherwise thought to ever be a Giant Killer driven by a great driver. It's been done hundreds of times. Quote:
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Last edited by SnapOv3st3r; 04-02-2013 at 10:27 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SnapOv3st3r For This Useful Post: | track_warrior (04-03-2013) |
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#98 | |
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Senior Member
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You think that somehow protects you from track day failures? You are sadly mistaken. I.e...Seen completely bone stock RX8 go flying into the gravel ditch during an AutoX event because the rear left hub completely separated on the car. You are not immune to track day failures just because your car is stock, bottom line. The ACR Viper is a purpose built track car. A Camaro Z/28? Yea need to see evidence that it's 100% track car and not built for the creature comforts of daily driving. |
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