How difficult is it to replace brake hard lines?

[Hanakuso]

I might have to replace my brake hard lines in the front and I was wondering how hard it is to do the install. I would be buying the OEM hard lines and hopefully they come already flared.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

I might have to replace my brake hard lines in the front and I was wondering how hard it is to do the install. I would be buying the OEM hard lines and hopefully they come already flared.

They would come flared.. not sure on this car but they can be a serious pain in the ass. We did the integra race cars with the engine/trans out, etc and I don't think it would have been possible with the engine in the car.. again no idea on this car though.

[CSG David]

Not difficult at all.

EDIT: Totally didn't realize it was hard lines.

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

They would come flared.. not sure on this car but they can be a serious pain in the ass. We did the integra race cars with the engine/trans out, etc and I don't think it would have been possible with the engine in the car.. again no idea on this car though.

I've read up on some other Subarus that you basically have to take out major parts, subframe, etc

Originally Posted by CSG David

Not difficult at all.

You speaking from experience on this platform? I'm dreading the idea of doing this on my own.

[CSG David]

Wait hard lines? Holy crap. I kept reading the regular brake lines. I take that back...hard lines are somewhat on the difficult side. Not sure how complex it is.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Did you mess up the hard line when installing a braided line? I'm confused as to why a nearly new car would need new hard lines.

PM me your email; I'll take a look at my diagrams.

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Did you mess up the hard line when installing a braided line? I'm confused as to why a nearly new car would need new hard lines.

PM me your email; I'll take a look at my diagrams.

Yeah I stripped some threading from installing SS lines a few months ago. I didn't know at the time but the instructions I was using were outdated and were only for the first version that mentioned the treading should go all the way down, not the revised SS lines I got which should show some threads and less turning needed to get them secure.

[SubieNate]

You didn't feel things getting tight and just kept going until they stripped? Holy balls. Usually it takes cross threading to ruin a line like that.

[ayau]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

Yeah I stripped some threading from installing SS lines a few months ago. I didn't know at the time but the instructions I was using were outdated and were only for the first version that mentioned the treading should go all the way down, not the revised SS lines I got which should show some threads and less turning needed to get them secure.

Thanks for letting us know. I was considering installing some SS lines but this has convinced me not to.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by ayau

Thanks for letting us know. I was considering installing some SS lines but this has convinced me not to.

Really? I'm not trying to insult Hanakuso, but what he did is pretty bone-headed and easily avoidable.

Your car doesn't see winter so you shouldn't even be worried about rounding out the flare nut that attaches the flex hose to the hard line or a seized flare nut (usually the thing that people do). These things have single digit torque value...just don't use German torque spec and you'll be okay.

My condolences to Hanakuso, again, not trying to insult anyone here.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

Yeah I stripped some threading from installing SS lines a few months ago. I didn't know at the time but the instructions I was using were outdated and were only for the first version that mentioned the treading should go all the way down, not the revised SS lines I got which should show some threads and less turning needed to get them secure.

have a shop cut off the very end, replace fitting, flare, tighten.

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Really? I'm not trying to insult Hanakuso, but what he did is pretty bone-headed and easily avoidable.

Your car doesn't see winter so you shouldn't even be worried about rounding out the flare nut that attaches the flex hose to the hard line or a seized flare nut (usually the thing that people do). These things have single digit torque value...just don't use German torque spec and you'll be okay.

My condolences to Hanakuso, again, not trying to insult anyone here.

Yeah it was a bad mistake. I've done SS lines before and I know the amount of tension needed isn't much. What threw me off was this,

Originally Posted by JRitt

Thanks for the track review Matt! I'm glad they're working so well for you.:happy0180:

Important Note on Brake Line Install
I had a customer installing his brake kit contact me about the brake lines. I wanted to share this info so others don't have any issues. He was concerned that the female thread depth on the Spiegler brake lines was too long at the hard line connection to the car. It isn't. Here's the skinny:

When the hard line on the car is attached to the stock brake lines, about half of the threads on the factory male fitting remain exposed. As a result, the threads of the male fitting may have a good bit of gooey black undercoating on them. Before installing the Spiegler brake lines, make sure all of that black gunk is removed, and the threads on the factory hard line are completely clean.

Once that gunk is removed, the lines will seal properly. The female fitting on the Spiegler lines included in our system are substantially deeper than the stock ones. The hard line will thread completely into the Spiegler line, and there will not be any threads remaining exposed. To say it another way, the hard line "screws further" into the Spiegler brake line than it does into the factory line.

Hopefully that makes sense, but feel free to ask any questions. We will make note of this on the revised version of our install manual. Thanks.

I didn't know until it was too late but Jeff is explaining the first version. The new revision that is being sold basically fits more like how the stock sits. I did have a small leak and that led me to believe I needed to tighten it more. Thinking back, I should of reseat it. That is where I fluxed up.

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

have a shop cut off the very end, replace fitting, flare, tighten.

I wasn't aware this is possible, if its just as safe and works then I'd rather go this route since its most likely cheaper. From my understanding is that we need a double flare. My car is leak free for the past 3 months or so and I've had a couple track days on it but just thinking about if it disconnects, I would probably have a bad crash.

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by ayau

Thanks for letting us know. I was considering installing some SS lines but this has convinced me not to.

Sorry that wasn't my intention tho. If youre careful you shouldn't have this problem. It's a really simple job but once you mess up the hard line then things can get messy

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

I wasn't aware this is possible, if its just as safe and works then I'd rather go this route since its most likely cheaper. From my understanding is that we need a double flare. My car is leak free for the past 3 months or so and I've had a couple track days on it but just thinking about if it disconnects, I would probably have a bad crash.

You can cut and flare them if there's enough extra line, which there should be if done carefully.. however, if it's not leaking just leave it be and deal with it if you ever need to worry about it. If you just stripped the nut portion (not the threads) I'd rock it forever and use vice grips to loosen/tighten