FYI: Status of Koni Sports

[wgnzlz]

I've installed the rears and yes, you have to drill the hole out a little.

[SVThis]

In picture #7 of the instructions is there a metal protrusion in the body of the OE strut that needs to be filed down?

[jdrxb9]

Originally Posted by SVThis

In picture #7 of the instructions is there a metal protrusion in the body of the OE strut that needs to be filed down?

Not in mine.

I went ahead and installed all four corners and Sam's bar. The local weather was too good to pass up (unheated garage), even if I do have to go back and install shims at the front upper mounts later. No real issues to report. It took a good while (way more than 2 hrs), but compared to the DIY, I was using compressors to disassemble and reassemble. So far, random driving on winter tires and at full soft all around, it is hard to tell any difference from stock, which is good and as expected.

cheers!

[SVThis]

Here are Koni's instructions for the spacer. There's a bunch of slop without it in there.

[Ninjin]

I received the spacers yesterday, but it looks like the instructions show the strut off the car. Will the spacer go on without taking too much apart? I'm thinking that using a spring compressor like the instructions say isn't compatible with the strut being on the car still.

[SVThis]

Koni really goes the extra mile with clear and concise instructions.

[Ninjin]

Well, I guess I can try to slip them on without removing the struts. What's the worst that can happen?

Wait, don't answer that.

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[SVThis]

I'm thinking you might have a problem with the shaft not being centered perfectly through the top hat hole. Good luck and let us know.

[Kido1986]

Ah yes, that. I noticed when adjusting them, how much the nub moves around, it did worry me.

[SVThis]

I cut my donor struts today. Everything went pretty smooth. There was very little spray drilling the small bottom hole. I pumped the oil into jars my wife uses to drain grease. I never told her I did that. Hope she doesn't decide to use the grease for anything.

Used a band saw to cut the tops off and got a nice clean cut. Torqueing the bottom bolt to 55 ft/lb took a little more effort than I was expecting. The insert dropped right in with no need for pounding. Since I didn't have a 14mm drill bit I used a 9/16 and it worked fine. I'm going to get a 12mm for the rear top hats as I don't want any slop there.

[rapid]

I was able to install the spacers by taking the top nut off, slipping the spacer on, then jacking the car slowly until the hole and the strut were centered. A deep well socket the same OD as the spacer and a few taps put them in place.

[Ninjin]

@rapid, may I ask what tool you used to remove the nut? It looks like the center adjuster nut is supposed to be held still while the outer nut is turned. I couldn't find anything in my limited tool chest that could do this while the strut is on the car.

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[SVThis]

Originally Posted by Ninjin

@rapid, may I ask what tool you used to remove the nut? It looks like the center adjuster nut is supposed to be held still while the outer nut is turned. I couldn't find anything in my limited tool chest that could do this while the strut is on the car.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

Good Question. Would like to know also

[jdrxb9]

Originally Posted by rapid

I was able to install the spacers by taking the top nut off, slipping the spacer on, then jacking the car slowly until the hole and the strut were centered. A deep well socket the same OD as the spacer and a few taps put them in place.

ditto - having a second person to move the wheel/strut/piston rod assembly around seemed to help

Originally Posted by Ninjin

@rapid, may I ask what tool you used to remove the nut? It looks like the center adjuster nut is supposed to be held still while the outer nut is turned. I couldn't find anything in my limited tool chest that could do this while the strut is on the car.

Originally Posted by SVThis

Good Question. Would like to know also

I can't speak for rapid, but I used one of these: HF Go-Thru
The center hole is just big enough to fit a deep 9mm 1/4" drive socket.
Also, you can use the go-thru socket with a 3/4" crowfoot and torque wrench. They come in handy for sway bar end links as well. No idea how long they will hold up, though.