JDM Knee Pad Install - Page 7 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

djdnz · 12-11-2012, 03:12 PM

Oh my knee HATES the stock plastic ones, but I am saying that I expected more from the JDM ones. They look comfier in pictures. They are better than stock, but I don't know if they are as good as they cost. I imagine someone like JPM could make them better EASILY.

sbxjap · 12-11-2012, 06:47 PM

definitely gonna do all this.... but I may wait since I'm going to Japan next year. These 4 panels... the clear signal/marker lights... maybe even the frameless mirror. Get it duty free maybe, lol... it's not so much about the savings as actually buying it from Japan!

Surok · 12-17-2012, 11:35 PM

my knee hits right on the stitching so its actually not very comfortable.

and maybe they should be padded a bit more..

joop1987 · 12-18-2012, 12:05 AM

It's pretty easy to change the foam inside the knee pads. The cover is easily removeable. Use the stock foam and trace it on the new foam. The stock foam is a soft sponge material.

WolfSongX · 12-20-2012, 12:15 PM

How to remove the bottom tray/USB/AUX/Start Button panel without scratching it.

I did a bunch of searching on this but this technique was the one that I finally used. This is from this thread and I'll quote the relevant portions of the post in here. Thanks to Lil Abner who originally posted this, and I hope he doesn't mind me quoting his excellent post. If you do, feel free to PM me and I'll remove the quotes.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8336

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lil Abner

Remove panels (one on each side). Pull straight out (towards the outside of the car)

Reach around, and push the USB/Aux plug out. Then unplug.

Pull panel out

Remove 2 screws

Basically after you remove the bottom panels you can get in behind the USB/Aux switch and push it out and unplug it, then push the harness back into the hole and use the hole for the switch to stick your finger through and pull. Worked well for me and no scratches... and I have a BRZ Limited with the push button start, so some of the other prying solutions don't really work well.

Thanks again to Lil Abner for this most informative post. I suggest following The Original Post By Lil Abner and reading the rest of his DIY since it includes almost all the steps required to replace the knee pads.

King Tut · 12-20-2012, 02:28 PM

I used the same technique on my BRZ Limited this weekend to remove the shifter and it worked great.

tuckdaddy · 01-10-2013, 09:41 PM

stoked to have found this! thanks for a great write up!

Grayian · 01-11-2013, 11:14 PM

I thought the USB/Start button removal too tough using just a finger in the USB hole. Getting a long flathead and pushing from behind helped a lot.

The scariest part was the door handles when removing the door panels. There is a tiny indentation below the handle, look on the bottom of it. Pry there, then once the bottom half is out, it feels like you will break if if you inch it out going higher. I decided to just yank it up and out and it comes out. I wouldnt try to pop the top out since it isn't snapped in like the bottom is.

chanomatik · 02-28-2013, 10:35 AM

Just got mine in. Can't wait to tackle this!

OrbitalEllipses · 02-28-2013, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chanomatik

Just got mine in. Can't wait to tackle this!

Ricer.

DKPJester · 02-28-2013, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Ricer.

Troll.

OrbitalEllipses · 02-28-2013, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DKPJester

Troll.

Chano and I are good internet buddies so I can call him a ricer. But who the f*% are you?

Go play somewhere else.

DKPJester · 02-28-2013, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Chano and I are good internet buddies so I can call him a ricer. But who the f*% are you?

Go play somewhere else.

Sorry! I thought you were just randomly being a ****. Looking back through the thread it should have been more obvious that you were just messing with him. :happy0180:

OrbitalEllipses · 02-28-2013, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DKPJester

Sorry! I thought you were just randomly being a ****. Looking back through the thread it should have been more obvious that you were just messing with him. :happy0180:

Naw, we cool.

12-20-2012, 02:28 PM	#90
King Tut NASA SpecE30 Racer Join Date: May 2012 Drives: 2006 Honda S2000 Location: Gulf Breeze, FL Posts: 7,279 Thanks: 607 Thanked 5,759 Times in 3,055 Posts Mentioned: 274 Post(s) Tagged: 10 Thread(s)	I used the same technique on my BRZ Limited this weekend to remove the shifter and it worked great. __________________ - King Tut Street/Track Car: 2006 Honda S2000 TT3 \|\| Race Car: 1987 BMW 325is SpecE30 \|\| Tow Vehicle: 2014 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel Sold Cars: 2012 BMW M3 \|\| 2013 Subaru BRZ \|\| 2012 Porsche Cayman R \|\| 2009 Chevrolet Z06 \|\| 2009 BMW M3 \|\| 2004 BMW M3 \|\| 2004 Nissan 350Z

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12-11-2012, 03:12 PM	#85
djdnz 1337 Join Date: Oct 2011 Drives: 2013 BRZ WRB S/C Location: San Jose, CA / Waterloo, ON Posts: 1,134 Thanks: 776 Thanked 482 Times in 269 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Oh my knee HATES the stock plastic ones, but I am saying that I expected more from the JDM ones. They look comfier in pictures. They are better than stock, but I don't know if they are as good as they cost. I imagine someone like JPM could make them better EASILY.

12-17-2012, 11:35 PM	#87
Surok Wise old man Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: 86 GTS Location: Sydney Posts: 1,003 Thanks: 999 Thanked 240 Times in 161 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	my knee hits right on the stitching so its actually not very comfortable. and maybe they should be padded a bit more..

12-18-2012, 12:05 AM	#88
joop1987 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Drives: 2013 FRS, Raven, Auto Location: Hamilton, NJ Posts: 104 Thanks: 0 Thanked 36 Times in 21 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	It's pretty easy to change the foam inside the knee pads. The cover is easily removeable. Use the stock foam and trace it on the new foam. The stock foam is a soft sponge material.

01-11-2013, 11:14 PM	#92
Grayian Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: 2013 BRZ Ltd MT SWP Location: Bay Area Posts: 15 Thanks: 10 Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I thought the USB/Start button removal too tough using just a finger in the USB hole. Getting a long flathead and pushing from behind helped a lot. The scariest part was the door handles when removing the door panels. There is a tiny indentation below the handle, look on the bottom of it. Pry there, then once the bottom half is out, it feels like you will break if if you inch it out going higher. I decided to just yank it up and out and it comes out. I wouldnt try to pop the top out since it isn't snapped in like the bottom is.

02-28-2013, 10:35 AM	#93
chanomatik Snow Don't Hurt! Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 2013 BRZ Limited 6MT CBS Location: Anchorage, Alaska, USA Posts: 2,538 Thanks: 6,416 Thanked 1,497 Times in 902 Posts Mentioned: 42 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Just got mine in. Can't wait to tackle this!

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