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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ

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Old 12-12-2012, 04:50 PM   #29
GT86drifter
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i drove it normal off the lot saw alot of 6K in the highway for the first 100miles
and i shift occasionally around 4500-5000 when i drive around for fun gona flush engine oil @ 600 and a full flush @ 1200 miles
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:30 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by pcasso87 View Post
I bought mine on a friday and tracked it on a sunday. I put 500 miles on her and did an oil change before tracking her. Ive got around 3.5k miles and most of them are track. I have not had a CEL or any other problem so i think what ever i did worked
Yep, Variable RPM and also taking it near Redline is the best.

Plus 100 mile oil change.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:17 AM   #31
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Having come from 15 yrs with nissan's 3L VQ engines, first time I've even considered a break in period. With the VQ I was told it was broken in at the factory and I could drive it like I stole it from day one, which I did! (zero oil use)
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Old 12-15-2012, 01:56 PM   #32
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Same here in PR

Same here...pr087...But in my case i did subaru 1,000miles "break-in" as seen in Subaru owners manuals of boxer engines, (Had an 2002 Subaru sti and same instructions)...changed the oil at 6,000miles because felt the engines RPMs letting loose everyday more and more. Thus Toyota synthethic oil with subaru oil filter changed at 6,000miles.(The dealer told me it was at 5,000miles???) They don't know crap here...or what ever. My impression upon change: much torquier, especially in 2,000rmp. I NO longer feel the vehicle rough idling,(which it started to do at 5,000miles after a an hour non-abusing trip, which returned to normal idling after the trip.) Anyways... I still feel the car's RPMs keep "loosing" or revving faster after the oil change with each and every day use. Rough idle is history for now. Now car's boxer-engine feels "tighter "...to put it that way. No dyno...will check oil at 9,000miles to assess. From this experience ...final thought... is up to the owner/car connection. its not the "break-in" done upon assembly before sell... Not the same in the real roads or/and ability to drive.

I'll keep up if any changes i feel,

Thanx for the feeds and the forum!
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:29 PM   #33
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Ive said it before and ill say it again, you are not breaking in an engine, you are breaking in a car. engine, clutch, trans, fluids, etc etc etc. Just follow the book. And for an FYI the cars are taken to redline at the factory.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:43 AM   #34
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Couldn't have said it better ahausheer!!!!

Thanks!!!
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:56 AM   #35
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I got mine with 5 miles on it ... I was cutting doughnuts in the dealer parking lot with the scion sales manager. And took it drifting on highway 84 that night with my wife with 100 miles on it . I recently had my first oilchange and the car feels like its got a lil more power . I am a firm believer in breakin how its going to be treated. Wich in my case is hard
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:04 PM   #36
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Ive said it before and ill say it again, you are not breaking in an engine, you are breaking in a car. engine, clutch, trans, fluids, etc etc etc. Just follow the book. And for an FYI the cars are taken to redline at the factory.

Exactly, its not only the engine. Also I've heard all engines must be broken-in with convectional oil, not synthetic. So if a car comes with synthetic, it HAD to be broken in at the factory.

I think manufacturers realized they had better reliability if they did the break-in at the factory, and hopefully it reveals any defects before it gets to the customer.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:14 PM   #37
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Pssh, I broke in my car utilizing the same methodology that i used for my last 4 new superbikes. Run it like you plan on running it. I regularly had stronger engines in all my bike than the average stock dyno pulls, no oil consumption, even on my 08 and 09 CBR1000RR (they were notoriously thirsty oil drinkers), and never had any issues with any of them.

My FRS runs smooth as silk at 7000 miles of red line shifting from day one!
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:03 PM   #38
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Only time will tell.
^^This^^
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:09 PM   #39
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This is how to break in a motor. Keep in mind that you have a new car though, not just a new motor. A new clutch will break way before your new motor does...
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:31 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by comic0guy View Post
Also I've heard all engines must be broken-in with convectional oil, not synthetic. So if a car comes with synthetic, it HAD to be broken in at the factory.
I believe that you heard wrong, but would love to read more information if you have it.

-Dennis
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:55 AM   #41
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Even after the prescribed bedding in milage , is it wise to be constantly revving to redline?
Sure the occasional rev to redline would help to keep the injectors clean and a track day is a lot of fun , but sitting constantly above 7000 rpm is not okay with our friends in blue uniform and my wallet.
I say this because the ecu cut out on my celica is 8350 rpm and I have never gone past 7800rpm.
Some people have , and then called a tow truck.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:12 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan.chalkley View Post
Even after the prescribed bedding in milage , is it wise to be constantly revving to redline?
Sure the occasional rev to redline would help to keep the injectors clean and a track day is a lot of fun , but sitting constantly above 7000 rpm is not okay with our friends in blue uniform and my wallet.
I say this because the ecu cut out on my celica is 8350 rpm and I have never gone past 7800rpm.
Some people have , and then called a tow truck.
There's nothing wrong with redlining a car really. The car will block you from over revving if it has been set up correctly (unless you downshift at the wrong time). A celica revving to 8350 sounds kinda high though. I would consider that to be honda territory unless you are running aftermarket cams, valve springs, etc.
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