Mod priorities...

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by raul

Are you serious? I can install those, push the strut in and not have to get an alignment? Everyone yells bloody murder at me when I suggest that, LOL.

Many here (including myself) have done that with no change in toe. Just loosen the bottom bolt a little bit, don't remove it.

[raul]

Cool, tighten top first, I'm assuming?

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by raul

Cool, tighten top first, I'm assuming?

When I did them I removed the nut off the stock top one, slightly loosened the bottom to allow movement (with force), remove top bolt, replace top bolt, push the top of the knuckle/hub carrier in to get maximum negative camber, snug bottom nut which will then hold the knuckle where it is, tighten top bolt, torque both.

Between that and the whiteline com-c tophats I'm at -2.2 on both sides up front, so I'm getting about -1.2 out of the crash bolts if the Com-C's are providing -1.0 as designed..

[raul]

Ok, I think I'm done with questions for today. Thanks for the personalized help! I knew there was a reason I loved this forum.

[benster]

i used hawk hps on my s-10 having seen good reviews on the s10 forum from members and while I was breaking the pads in, the pedal kept going to the floor on the last 2 braking applications. I was wondering if I had air in it so I bled it and it kept going to the floor. I thought it could be the old rubber lines(which surely doesn't help).

I was going through this site on brakes and saw a lot of guys had the same issues with the hps. works great on the street and stops more than the stock brakes ever did, but I hate the VERY mushy feeling the brakes have now.

I very much do not recommend them front or rear especially if you're going to track it. By the 10th application, as per hawk's break-in procedure, the pads were smoking pretty bad IMO. that would be equal to maybe one or two lap of a race track i believe. street friendly? yes, drag strip? yes, road course, never, ever.

[raul]

I'm going with HP+ not HPS.

[diirk]

Originally Posted by raul

I'm headed to Homestead on the 15th for an HPDE.

I am not sure which I should do first:

Camber bolts and Alignment: $150
Brake Pads, SS Lines and Brake fluid combo: $253

Already having a Grimmspeed master cylinder brace, which mod would you prioritize for the track? It will be my first track event. I've done some autocross before.

For your first HPDE, I wouldn't do any of it. I ran two full days completely stock and had no issues with anything. Run it stock to give yourself a good baseline for future mods and save a few $ for the time being.

After your first event, then consider changing out your brake fluid or pads and maybe crash bolts. SS Lines are unnecesary at this point.

For my third event I ran crash bolts and StopTech pads and changed out the diff oil. Still running the stock fluid but am planning to change that out soon.

Also just an FYI, for tire pressure start around 36° hot or 32° cold.

[raul]

@diirk

Thanks for the advice!

The main reason I'm doing fluid and pads is more for safety than performance. I want to avoid fade and boiling fluid because of the potential catastrophe it could be. The camber bolts I want because I already did AutoX completely stock.

[diirk]

Makes sense. And considering you have some experience, it makes even more sense.

I just think folks overstate the need to change fluid and pads. I had no brake fade from the first two days. And I was on a pretty fast track.

[empower-auto]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

And enter the raffle in my sig

The OEM crash bolts will give you about 1 degree of negative camber. I think the bolts are like $10 for both or $11, cheap either way. Install those for sure, you can do so without changing the alignment.

Where can a guy snag these bolts? Are the whiteline ones the same idea?

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by empower-auto

Where can a guy snag these bolts? Are the whiteline ones the same idea?

I think the whiteline's are eccentric. The Subaru crash bolts are actually the same bolt as the bottom strut bolt, but used at the top as well. It has the same thread pitch but the shank is thinner allowing the movement.

You can buy them from any Subaru or Toyota/Scion dealership but in my experience (and based on what others have posted here that I've seen) they are cheaper at Subaru dealerships.

[PMok]

Thanks to all you guys for your input on this. I too am headed to the track in a few weeks and thanks to the useful info on here, here are the mods I have decided to pour my money into:

- Front XP8 Brake Pads
- Motul RBF660 fluid
- Goodridge speedbleeders
- Berk catless test pipe (yeah not necessary but WANT )
- new suction cup camera mount
- front crash bolts