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#1 |
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Regional Moderator
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Tires/rims or coils first?
I want to get both regardless. But the fender gap is killing me. I want to know which way I should go cause I can't afford to do all at the same time.
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#2 |
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Since you're in Corvallis (go beavers!) I'd go with coils since the likely hood of you needing snow tires is slim.
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#3 |
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I feel like you'll hate the wheel gap even more with new wheels and tires. Coils or springs first. Maybe do springs and wheels and later sell the springs when you can afford the coils. Shouldn't lose much money and the springs may meet your needs.
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#5 |
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86DESU
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Save your money mate, and get both at once. There's a nice section for wheels and tyres and you needn't spend too much cash. I'm getting both before the car comes myself!
EDIT; Just remember, too, if you flush up with wheels and then fit new coils, you're gonna have a bad time. |
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#6 | |
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Quote:
Thanks for your guys input. From what it sounds like. It would just be smarter just to go coils. Now if only there was a group by for the kw v3's. Anybody have any experience w/ the Cusco Coils? I have Cusco struts now, and I like the idea of brand loyalty. |
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#7 |
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oe tires suck
get real tires, lighter rims, then coils |
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#8 |
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As my autocross friend tells me, "You should drive on your stock setup until you learn all the limits so you can truly appreciate suspension and tire modifications."
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| The Following User Says Thank You to m.box.design For This Useful Post: | JesseE (11-20-2012) |
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#9 |
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#10 |
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#11 |
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I would do Coilovers first as well. Although you may want to look at BuddyClub instead of the KW's. The lower you go the less wheel travel you have with the KW's. BuddyClub still has full travel no matter how low you go. Sell for around 1400.00 which I think is comparable to the KW set. After you get the suspension done you can then go buy the WheelMate ( I think that's what the name is) and mount the tire on it and find the exact back spacing you need for the wheel. You will have a totally custom look without the rubbing. That's what I plan on doing anyway. Good luck.
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#12 |
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Tells it like it is
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If you plan on racing or auto-x in any capacity (or even if you drive hard on the street), I'd address your brakes first. They're usually the first mod I do on any car. Based on your signature, you haven't touched them yet.
Hawk HP+ front pads/HPS rears, good fluid like Super Blue or RBF600, speed bleeders are a good idea for $20 or whatever they cost, and stainless lines. You can keep the stock rotors as they're basically new anyway. Probably cost you $300-350 for that stuff and it'll be well worth it, especially considering myself and many others consider the stock brakes a big weak point. After that, tires will make your brakes even more useful as they not only provide grip for accelleration but for braking too. I'd look into suspension after that.
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#13 | |
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Quote:
Good advice. But I actually have a plan to switch them out with brembos from an old sti. |
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#14 | |
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Tells it like it is
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Quote:
Still... I'd buy some good pads for the Brembos (same brands as I said)... Keep in mind larger rotors/calipers just mean you can stop more consistantly (because they dissipate heat better) not shorter necessarily. The pads are what keeps you stopping shorter, the lines keep good feel and won't stretch, the fluid stops you from boiling and losing the ability to use the brakes. Basically, with experience with my two Corvettes, I've never upgraded rotor size or caliper... just pads, lines, and fluid, never had a problem with braking even when up against guys with BBKs on track days. You can have all the size in the world as far as brakes go, but shitty oem pads will always be shitty. Again, after doing brakes... get some tires to utilize the stopping power you have. If it were me, I'd do pads/lines/fluid (and your BBK since you have it), RCE yellows for the look, and then some sticky wheels/tires (keep in mind they need to fit over those Brembos). Run the car like that, add sway bays to dial it in... then decide if you need more, if you do, start shopping for coilovers.
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