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Old 11-07-2012, 06:21 AM   #15
ANTI_LAG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coheed View Post
I hardly see these plugs missing. they are a good heat range for turbo, and they come gapped at around .032. That gap is good for quite a bit of boost with a proper high power ignition system and iridium plugs.

On a GT30r type setup I could only see spark blow out after 18psi or so... perhaps running too rich?
The ign system is not as powerful as you think, even at lower boost it will blow the spark out at .032 gap. You'll have to bring the gap down some
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:28 AM   #16
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Thanks guys.

i think its the spark plug is what making problems that when we were running the car @ 5psi it was running ok but we faced problem after we increased the boost to 9 psi @ 93 pump gas.
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANTI_LAG View Post
The ign system is not as powerful as you think, even at lower boost it will blow the spark out at .032 gap. You'll have to bring the gap down some
Hmmm interesting. Perhaps the higher CR contributes to this?

I was running 22psi on a .032 gap and a GT30R on my SR20VE and stock coil (inside distributor, not COP). So it is surprising that the stock COP system wouldn't be able to handle 10psi boost.

Anyone else with turbo having issues with spark blowout?

I didn't need to drop gap to .025 when I went 6262 and started making over 500whp. Perhaps a 15 year old Nissan ignition is still better than a brand new Suby ignition?
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:27 PM   #18
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So, what is procedure for lowering gap on this engine anyway? Drop the engine slightly and install from underneath?
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:21 PM   #19
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factory says raise engine just above frame rails to R&R spark plugs
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:56 PM   #20
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I never had to jack the engine up at all, I pulled the plugs from the top. Used a 1/4 ratchet with a short 10mm to remove coil pack bolt then pulled those out then used a standard 14mm socket, slid that in, then used a short extension, push that in, then just barely stuck a 3/8 standard snap on ratchet on it. As long as the car is cold I can do a plug change in about 10 mins.

Work on a 300zx turbo and it makes this car a breeze...

Last edited by ANTI_LAG; 11-07-2012 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:02 AM   #21
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any pics of the turbo kit?
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:58 AM   #22
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It is more then likely the tune. These cars are a little tricky if you are dealing with stock ecu's
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:19 PM   #23
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I think without user programmable engine management it's harder to figure out the root of the problem. It may just be that your ecu tune is too rich, set up for fuel cut, detonating, who knows.

I think the heat range on the plug should be fine but I would tighten up that gap some as suggested. Sometimes a colder plug is a quick fix for detonation but really the right move would be to adjust the tune correctly. I mean I run a 6 heat range spark plug at 700 whp. LOL! Unless your spark plug shows signs of overheating at the insulator you don't need to change the heat range.

Good luck.
Phil Grabow
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:14 PM   #24
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Good to see you here Phil. Hows the hydra working out on the frs? Seeing good things from tuning?
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:17 PM   #25
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Did you pull the plugs and take a look at them?
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:58 PM   #26
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I would say its more to do with tune.

My current set up on my MR2 is 2 colder than N/A with 15psi and the gap 0.44.

Ill be reducing the gap as im going higher psi
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANTI_LAG View Post
If your running 93 on this car your probaley not even going to be running enough boost to need to change the plug to a colder unit. If your running a different fuel and higher boost then yeah you should. Just my 2 cents.
I agree 100%. There is no need to "upgrade" plugs in this car. They are iridium/platinum and a very cold heat range straight from the factory. I've used heat range 7 to over 600whp builds without issues. Even a heat range 6 will be good for 400whp, but there is more to it than just the heat range.

Likely the plug gap it a little too big. Like others have said. But there is no need for a colder or different plug set.

I would be wary of gapping too small as well, as this can disrupt the part-throttle driveability and startup.
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Old 09-22-2014, 01:04 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANTI_LAG View Post
I never had to jack the engine up at all, I pulled the plugs from the top. Used a 1/4 ratchet with a short 10mm to remove coil pack bolt then pulled those out then used a standard 14mm socket, slid that in, then used a short extension, push that in, then just barely stuck a 3/8 standard snap on ratchet on it. As long as the car is cold I can do a plug change in about 10 mins.

Work on a 300zx turbo and it makes this car a breeze...

Bro, can you be an angel and idk, post a vid.... I'd really appreciate it!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Last edited by Astroboy; 09-22-2014 at 03:45 AM.
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