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Old 10-25-2012, 01:54 AM   #29
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Quote:
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I've posted that video before...
i could only find the one of the stock bushings. good enough for a repost anyway! :happy0180:
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:31 PM   #30
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Yeah big difference with those Whiteline bushings. I know I'd have them!
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:35 AM   #31
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This is some good information in this thread. At first I just thought that everyone was bias in this forum when it came to coil-overs. I have been struggling to find decent reviews on some of the jdm brands. But after those Racecomp posts, I have a better understanding. This question I have is a bit off topic:

Are there any negative impacts(cons) to adding camber plates to KW V3 coilovers for a daily driver?
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:38 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armythug View Post
Are there any negative impacts(cons) to adding camber plates to KW V3 coilovers for a daily driver?
Noise. They simply make a bit more noise (rattle) than OE style rubber based mounts. Many people live with it, others can't stand it.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:23 PM   #33
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^ That, but also it should be noted that some camber plates are more prone to noise than others, or rather do not last as long before making noise. Quality bearings are important and a quality camber plate WILL be quiet.

EDIT: also a little harshness. We're using Subaru Group N rubber mounts, which are an excellent choice for a DD. A little firmer but still quiet and not harsh. We're getting our camber from the lower mount and have more than enough for a DD.

- Andrew
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:25 PM   #34
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A good camber plate shouldn't make any sort of rattling noises (you will get more nvh due to the solid mount, but the bearing itself shouldn't make noise). A good camber plate also has easily replaceable high quality bearings.

Short list of stuff I would use:
MSI/DMS
Vorshlag
RCE/GT Worx
Ground Control

Last edited by jamal; 10-29-2012 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:28 PM   #35
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I can certainly attest to the noise. Its not extremely annoying but it is noticeable. The other thing is how expansion joints become the most annoying thing in the world when running KW's with Vorshlag plates...
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:46 PM   #36
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So much flex going on
What part is that that needs to be replaced?
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:51 PM   #37
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Quote:
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What part is that that needs to be replaced?
The solution (in the video) is the Whiteline subframe bushing inserts. They don't replace anything, they simply slide in and fill in some gaps in the stock bushing to firm things up and reduce all that slop.

- Andrew
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:44 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
The solution (in the video) is the Whiteline subframe bushing inserts. They don't replace anything, they simply slide in and fill in some gaps in the stock bushing to firm things up and reduce all that slop.

- Andrew
Thanks yeah I found the parts.
Quote:
Whiteline Australia, one of Team VCMC FR-S' sponsors, has generously provided many of their high quality parts for use on our 2013 Scion FR-S. Among them are the Rear Crossmember Mount Insert Bushings (p/n KDT922) and the 16mm Heavy Duty Adjustable Rear Swaybar (p/n BSR53Z) shown on the right in the video.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:38 AM   #39
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Great read! I'm in the process of buying KWs. I've always believed in you get what you pay for, just having a hard time paying this much for coilovers but from what I've read, it's totally worth it.


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Old 07-13-2013, 09:26 PM   #40
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Bump!
These kw v3 coilovers have been out for a while and I'm sure many people have tried using different rebound/bump settings. I would like to know what you guys think is the best setup for street use? What settings are you guys currently running? I just bought my kw's
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:56 PM   #41
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I suggest you start by using RCE's suggestion in page 1 then tweak to your own preference.

My setting may not be suitable to you because our mods might be different (bushes, sway bar, wheels/tyres, wheel alignment etc). Also the quality of the road we drive on might be different as well as our driving style.
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Old 11-27-2013, 04:58 PM   #42
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Does lower or higher the number mean stiffer?
I have both front and rear compression at 3. If I want to have aggressive turns, what settings should I put them at?
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