Rear Deck "popping/clicking/tapping/ticking" noise.

[Jesse]

epic fix. <3

[TennisHsu]

One week update- still no ticks/pops, lube it up!

[Sigh-on-Rice]

Originally Posted by TennisHsu

One week update- still no ticks/pops, lube it up!

Nice! Mine is 11 days 0 pop.

[NYC BRZ]

Mine is in the shop taken apart right now. The Subie tech noticed it right away and apparently had another tech driving it around with him in the trunk, lol. Well I've got a Forester for the night so I really hope it snows...then melts tomorrow before I pick up the BRZ.

[sieeegel]

well... the noise is back. Only 4 days after lubing it up with WD-40, although the noise isnt as pronounced as it used to be, but its definitely back. Ill lube her up again later.

question:
do you spray the wd40 deep inside the 2 beams or just near the little opening where the two metal pieces are seperated

[dsgerbc]

I drove with rear seats down today, dropping off some wheels to be sandblasted. Didn't hear a tap. I'd suggest a different spray and spraying deep too.

[Sigh-on-Rice]

Originally Posted by sieeegel

well... the noise is back. Only 4 days after lubing it up with WD-40, although the noise isnt as pronounced as it used to be, but its definitely back. Ill lube her up again later.

question:
do you spray the wd40 deep inside the 2 beams or just near the little opening where the two metal pieces are seperated

Oh noes! That's not good.
I sprayed at the opening. I did not put the WD-40 spray tube deep inside. But I sprayed a lot until it started to drip and I believe I saw some coming out from the space by the upper panel. So far, mine is no pop for 12 days.

[anteater86]

Originally Posted by sieeegel

well... the noise is back. Only 4 days after lubing it up with WD-40, although the noise isnt as pronounced as it used to be, but its definitely back. Ill lube her up again later.

question:
do you spray the wd40 deep inside the 2 beams or just near the little opening where the two metal pieces are seperated

I would use something more substantial than WD-40, like a grease type lubricant, silicon, etc..

Good luck!

[Sigh-on-Rice]

Originally Posted by anteater86

I would use something more substantial than WD-40, like a grease type lubricant, silicon, etc..

Good luck!

Yes, my plan was to try White Lithium Grease if WD-40 didn't work. The original owner who thought of this fix used silicon. Maybe sieeegel can try one of those 2 instead of WD-40 and see how it goes.

[irxproductions]

Hi everyone, super-big update time with GOOD NEWS from my recent dealer visit!

On Tuesday, I took my FR-S into the dealership to have the following issues reviewed: the chirp at idle, the A/C idle, the rear deck tapping, and buzzing in the passenger door (door panel vibrations).

Problem #1 Idle Chirp
The dealer had the local Scion rep on-hand to investigate the chirps and determined it was the high pressure pump shaft chirping. They replaced the pump, manifold, throttle chamber, fuel delivery pipe, and fuel pipe (basically, the entire system). This fix eliminated the chirp (though we've got to give it a few hundred miles to see if it rears its head again).

BTW: I got a glimpse of the dealer's copy revealing over $2,000 in parts for the fuel system replacement. This is quite the goldmine for your local dealer (they get paid from Scion for these repairs).

Edit: This is the repair from the newly-released TSB.

Problem #2 A/C Chirp
The fuel delivery replacement also remedied the A/C chirp (where the car would emit a loud single chirp every 15-20 seconds when moving with the air conditioning on).

Problem #3 Passenger Door Buzz
In a first, ever, for a car dealership (for me, at least), they tore down the passenger door and reassembled it with additional soundproofing foam. It is as tight as a drum, now. Excellent work!

Problem #4 The Rear Deck Tapping
The moment you've been waiting for:

Diagnosis - direct quote from the dealer docs: "Noise caused by rear deck cross member spot welds and panels shifting causing popping-type noise. Excessive spot weld slag rubbing on panels internally. Inspect trunk body seam spot welds, OK. Inspect quarter body seams and spot welds, OK.

Roadtest confirms noise. Remove rear interior deck cover, and third brake light assembly. Adjust rear deck cross member spot weld seams on upper and lower section. Apply HHS-K to all adjusted spot weld seams and panels. Roadtest on various road types - noise is gone."

And they're right! The noise IS gone. In layman's terms, they re-welded (so not a word) some spot welds and applied HHS-K, a high-pressure lubricating oil. Similar to our home remedy fix of white lithium or silicone grease, this did the trick. For the moment, the noise is gone.


I've only had the car for a day, but I can say that it is the most silent it's been since I've gotten it. My recommendation - if you can, try and schedule your appointment so the local Scion regional representative can be on-hand.

P.S. I'm still waiting on the ECU for the Daytime Running Light delete. When they say "back-ordered," they really mean back-ordered!

[Sigh-on-Rice]

Originally Posted by irxproductions

Problem #2 A/C Chirp
The fuel delivery replacement also remedied the A/C chirp (where the car would emit a loud single chirp every 15-20 seconds when moving with the air conditioning on).

Nice to know that idle chirp TSB would get rid of the A/C "ting" noise too. Mine's getting louder and louder. In a covered parking lot, it sounds like I hit a metal pipe with another metal pipe. It's loud enough to draw people's attention who are like 5 car length away and it's embarrassing. "TING!!!"

It's nice to hear that they took care of your rear deck noise. And thanks for the good news.

[Derrick]

wowoww, this just happened the other day for me, and i just stumbled upon this thread! thanks for the information! will get this done asap because its been bugging me

[JohnS_Rosamond]

I don't own this car yet, but I was wondering.... Could you pop rivet the two pieces of tin together rather than spray lube or hammering welds? Please forgive my ignorance if this is a dumb idea.

[Sigh-on-Rice]

Originally Posted by JohnS_Rosamond

I don't own this car yet, but I was wondering.... Could you pop rivet the two pieces of tin together rather than spray lube or hammering welds? Please forgive my ignorance if this is a dumb idea.

That might work, but I don't know if anyone is willing to create new holes to try it.