Suspension Review: Race Comp Yellow Springs

[jamal]

I use a press for one side and then an air hammer with a chisel bit for the other. You can't press them through and have to pry them out.

[Smudgeous]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Have you been driving with the bad com-c's all week? If so, did the noises get progressively worse? On the fence about swapping the stockers back on at this point... If I drive carefully and consciously avoid bumps its not rattling, so on the highway it's ok for the most part.

Been driving on them for several weeks. I noticed them getting worse and worse, and then when I had it looked at by a local shop a couple weeks ago, they found some loose bolts while they had it up on the lift to see if they could figure it out without taking the wheels off. After they tightened everything, it got better, but it seems to be slowly becoming more frequent and louder again.

However, I don't have any issues on bumps that I've heard; it's only during turning (more than what you need for a lane change).

I'm also sitting on the upper inner bushings, was too scared and ran out of time before I had to head into work to do those myself. Trying to figure out when I can get into a garage to get some of the work done.. Have a few parts ready to install, and I only feel comfortable doing some of them myself.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by jamal

I use a press for one side and then an air hammer with a chisel bit for the other. You can't press them through and have to pry them out.

That doesn't sound like fun at all. The rear upper A arm looks like a bitch to remove too.

[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Thanks for posting that image and yes, I used a Gearwrench Pass thru socket, which allowed me to get a long allen wrench with a ratchet adapter to hold the shaft steady to remove the top nut.

The Gearwrench set and these:

are the most useful tools ever!!!

I've looked over 3 different diys/instructions and they don't include a step using these tools. Could someone explain for dummies exactly what tools are needed and at which step, why, etc.? Thanks.

For removing the top nut on the strut without the strut turning? Do you use this to torque on the nut too? And which size tools are needed? Thanks.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

I've looked over 3 different diys/instructions and they don't include a step using these tools. Could someone explain for dummies exactly what tools are needed and at which step, why, etc.? Thanks.

For removing the top nut on the strut without the strut turning? Do you use this to torque on the nut too? And which size tools are needed? Thanks.

I think I only used those flexy wrenches for the nuts that secure the top mounts to the car. To remove the top nut on the strut I used the Gearwrench and allen key with ratchet adapter. The RCE instructions posted in this thread tell you which sizes are needed.

[Duo]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Looks good!

You could have gone with quite a bit more camber up front, but overall your alignment is solid.

- drew

What's the max camber you can get from the Comp C's?

[Racecomp Engineering]

I think we're running -2.3, but I'm not sure if that's maxed out. It should be close to around there.

- Andrew

[Calum]

I just read through the instructions, this is my first disappointment with this car. On every other car I've gotten away with using a spark plug socket. Oh well, looks like I've got a new tool to add to my Christmas list.

[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

I think I only used those flexy wrenches for the nuts that secure the top mounts to the car. To remove the top nut on the strut I used the Gearwrench and allen key with ratchet adapter. The RCE instructions posted in this thread tell you which sizes are needed.

I found pics of the "Gearratchet" being used on the top of the strut here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=50

I'm still a bit unclear on how you torque the top nut back on afterwards with a torque wrench. Do you not need to worry about the allen key when you are tightening the top nut?

[ATL BRZ]

So I spoke too soon about the Whiteline Com-C's not making any noises while turning. Today I drove to work on city streets and alongside the horrible rattling over the slightest bumps, the Com-C's are making a loud, crisp POP noise when turning. This is embarrassing. I don't think I can wait until WL ships me new ones. I may drive back to the shop and swap my stock top mounts back on.

[Smudgeous]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

So I spoke too soon about the Whiteline Com-C's not making any noises while turning. Today I drove to work on city streets and alongside the horrible rattling over the slightest bumps, the Com-C's are making a loud, crisp POP noise when turning. This is horrible. I don't think I can wait until WL ships me new ones. I may drive back to the shop and swap my stock top mounts back on.

Are you sure you tightened the bolts with the allen key enough? When I was doing the install, I hadn't noticed the allen keys and had just tightened it with a normal bolt until I couldn't tighten it anymore. The result was that the struts had give to them with only applying like 20lbs of force. When that happened, I creaked over any uneven surfaces, even on straight roads. Once I tightened them with the allen key + boxwrench combination those creaks went away (of course I took everything back apart before realizing I could have tightened just by removing the dust caps as it was already installed :P)

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Smudgeous

Are you sure you tightened the bolts with the allen key enough? When I was doing the install, I hadn't noticed the allen keys and had just tightened it with a normal bolt until I couldn't tighten it anymore. The result was that the struts had give to them with only applying like 20lbs of force. When that happened, I creaked over any uneven surfaces, even on straight roads. Once I tightened them with the allen key + boxwrench combination those creaks went away (of course I took everything back apart before realizing I could have tightened just by removing the dust caps as it was already installed :P)

Yes, tightened them while using a spring compressor when reassembling while off the car, then double checked when they were on the car, then triple checked after driving on them.

Maybe they are too tight? Not enough clearance between the top mount and the black spring cap?? How are you guys judging torque on that top nut?

[Racecomp Engineering]

We're disappointed with the quality of the Whiteline Com C top mounts. Did not expect this at all but we're glad that they are replacing them for customers. In the meantime we're not going to be selling them until it's sorted out.

As always please feel free to call us with any questions or concerns.

- Andrew

[mechaghost]

Has Whiteline gotten back to you guys on what their action will be? I contacted them 2 weeks ago but they never called me back.