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Old 09-16-2012, 06:20 PM   #15
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Should have seen my 2012 Jeep at like 500 miles, it had shards like that in the oil filter... (Jeep 3.6L uses a paper filter) .

I didn't see much evidence of metal particles in my BRZ oil changed at 1000 miles.
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:03 AM   #16
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Thats just insane. I cant imagine where chunks that big are being broken off from. Ill be changing my oil and filter early just in case. Makes me think about the break in procedure arguments. I'm gonna drive nice and easy to try and ensure that those larger flakes have the best chance of settling in the pan as opposed to being constantly circulated and doing more damage.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:49 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ahausheer View Post
Thats just insane. I cant imagine where chunks that big are being broken off from. Ill be changing my oil and filter early just in case. Makes me think about the break in procedure arguments. I'm gonna drive nice and easy to try and ensure that those larger flakes have the best chance of settling in the pan as opposed to being constantly circulated and doing more damage.

Well...IMO they have to be coming out of either bearing surfaces or valve train. Everything else on the motor is non-magnetic right?

Block and pistons are aluminum...rings are typically stainless which depending on grade isn't terribly magnetic...so I'm guessing main or cam bearing/valve surface.

Whatever the source, I think there is something to be said here about proper break in. Unless the fragments were sitting in the oil catch from the last time the oil was changed on the other car in the garage...something with an iron block...I'm guessing.....hoping.....
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:00 PM   #18
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Holy. This is pretty nuts. I'm gonna try to change mine today or tomorrow and I'll run the magnet through. Got a few hard drive magnets, should pick them up pretty easily.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:37 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by DaJoian View Post
I may be wrong; but is that a magnet around the seating of where the oil filter goes?...

The magnet(s) are banded around the circumference of the filter body. The pictures show cut outs of the filter bodies with more than 1/2 cut away on a dark/black surface as a background (which makes it appear quite cut/pasted on the quick glance). You can just make out the side of one filter and the magnet set on another.

However, after breaking in a new Honda Ruckus and a fresh rebuild on a old Datsun pushrod a few years ago, you cannot overchange new engine oil.

Don't fret it, just change it when you have the chance.

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Old 09-17-2012, 09:42 PM   #20
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The magnet(s) are banded around the circumference of the filter body. The pictures show cut outs of the filter bodies with more than 1/2 cut away on a dark/black surface as a background (which makes it appear quite cut/pasted on the quick glance). You can just make out the side of one filter and the magnet set on another.

However, after breaking in a new Honda Ruckus and a fresh rebuild on a old Datsun pushrod a few years ago, you cannot overchange new engine oil.

Don't fret it, just change it when you have the chance.

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I think he means the OP, not the filtermag half-cuts. It appears to be a "washer" shaped magnet that would be sandwiched between the oil cup, and the filter.
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:14 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Hawaiian View Post
I think he means the OP, not the filtermag half-cuts. It appears to be a "washer" shaped magnet that would be sandwiched between the oil cup, and the filter.
That's a brilliant idea! All the oil goes through there; huge shards will be caught by the magnet and everything else will be filtered out by the filter...
It makes perfect sense!...

And yes, I was referring to the picture the OP posted. Thanks Hawaiian for clearing that up. :happy0180:
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:04 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
Actually oil pans have magnets on them to trap the really huge particles.
The FRS/BRZ/86 do not have any magnets inside the engine oil pan or on the drain bolt.

And just to clarify...

The first picture posted in this tread with the metal shards is on a generic magnet that was dipped into and ran through the used oil after it was drained out. The magnet was not mounted on any part of the engine.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:23 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Anorexic 86 View Post
The FRS/BRZ/86 do not have any magnets inside the engine oil pan or on the drain bolt.
That's no good (now I'm very glad my Filtermag is on its way).
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:25 AM   #24
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I placed a Filtermag on the car at the dealership when I picked up my car. I kept the factory oil till 6500 but replaced my filter at 3k miles.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:41 AM   #25
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I also stuck a filtermag on the car before it left the lot. Do a Google search for a "Dimple" magnetic oil drain plug. I have one but haven't had the chance to drain the oil and install it yet. Comes with 3 crush washers. Available from Drainplugmagnets.com and here is the size you need M16X1.5X12.

All the chains and sprockets are steel as well. Just think that IF everyones oil looks like OP's, do you wonder why this might possibly be the source of (or contributing factor) of the CEL/VVT/sprocket problems? That much crap floating around in the oil can't be good....
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:14 AM   #26
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I also stuck a filtermag on the car before it left the lot. Do a Google search for a "Dimple" magnetic oil drain plug. I have one but haven't had the chance to drain the oil and install it yet. Comes with 3 crush washers. Available from Drainplugmagnets.com and here is the size you need M16X1.5X12.

All the chains and sprockets are steel as well. Just think that IF everyones oil looks like OP's, do you wonder why this might possibly be the source of (or contributing factor) of the CEL/VVT/sprocket problems? That much crap floating around in the oil can't be good....
I was thinking this exact thought on the way to work this morning. I'm going to try and bribe my dealership mechanic into giving me access to the oil control valve and cam gear that's coming out of the car. I think I can dissemble the Cam Gear and maybe determine if it's faulty.
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:25 AM   #27
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This always happens with new engines. This is why when Ive built STI engines I always change the oil at 500 miles. even on my New car purchased Ive changed the oil at 500 miles. Also, I dont use synthetic. Just good conventional Oil and change every 3k. Synthetic isnt worth the money. This is a decision made after HOURS of research and many discussions with a few manufactures.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:18 AM   #28
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the filtermag is a gimmick and not needed,

reason=
if the filtermag sticks to the filter then that means the metal is already in the filter being "filtered out" all its doing is collecting what is already in the filter and giving you a "look at me" worm fuzzy,

modurn oil filters, filter down to microns, and multi staged. you'd get more crap through your air filter into the combustion chamber/ringlands than you would in the oil/bearings

if it collects in the oil filter then its already passed through the oil pump causing damage to pump gears/surfaces. this is also why a strong neodymium oil pan plug magnet is a better choice,

and a few neodymium magnets placed close to the oil pump intake snorkel is a wise investment, they are not very big, same size as a shirt button, and super strong, almost impossable to pickup once placed, we do this with every car we prep/rebuild. if a customer is paying $500 for a nismo or tomei high psi oil pump we want to ensure it lives a very long healthy life,
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