0W 20 v 5W 40

[gmookher]

Originally Posted by Kiwi

Just a little food for thought.
If STI sells 5W40 oil for the BRZ, I would trust them that it's totally fine.

http://www.sti.jp/parts/catalogue/br...8050ST060.html

thats your logic?

[ultra]

Originally Posted by jpit

There is alot of misinformation being given out in this thread. This article really helps explain what oil you should be using.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Just read through this.

Seems like the new plan is to just hunt down the best quality full synth 0w20 I can find.

[Kiwi]

Originally Posted by gmookher

thats your logic?

Yes, and your problem with it is?

[Synack]

Buying 5W-30 for my 300whp turbo FR-S today.

I'll let you guys know the results, details, temperatures, etc.

I stepped up to 5W because: Here in Houston, in January, the average highs are 64 degrees at the coldest part of the year.

I stepped up to 30 because: Not only is it boosted, I drive moderately hard, and it will be tracked, drifted, dragged, etc.

I may step up to 5W-40 if the 30 isn't good enough.

[ahausheer]

Originally Posted by Synack

Buying 5W-30 for my 300whp turbo FR-S today.

I'll let you guys know the results, details, temperatures, etc.

I stepped up to 5W because: Here in Houston, in January, the average highs are 64 degrees at the coldest part of the year.

I stepped up to 30 because: Not only is it boosted, I drive moderately hard, and it will be tracked, drifted, dragged, etc.

I may step up to 5W-40 if the 30 isn't good enough.

Ambient temps have nothing to do with oil weight selection. You actually just went thicker on start up which may not hurt but it wont help at all. The first number should be as low as possible. If your logic is that you need a thicker oil due to the turbo/hard use, stick with a 0W-30. Its the 30 (operating temp viscosity) that you should worry about. Ill stick with 0-20. Why would you want thicker oil on start up, you want it as thin (as close to operating visc) as possible, not thicker.

[Synack]

Originally Posted by ahausheer

Ambient temps have nothing to do with oil weight selection. You actually just went thicker on start up which may not hurt but it wont help at all. The first number should be as low as possible. If your logic is that you need a thicker oil due to the turbo/hard use, stick with a 0W-30. Its the 30 (operating temp viscosity) that you should worry about. Ill stick with 0-20. Why would you want thicker oil on start up, you want it as thin (as close to operating visc) as possible, not thicker.

0W is a bit more expensive and when it's as hot as it is here there isn't a whole lot of difference between 0W and 5W.

It was also recommended by the guy that installed and tuned my boost.

I did just see however at Walmart the prices are the same.

[SXE10]

Originally Posted by Kiwi

Just a little food for thought.
If STI sells 5W40 oil for the BRZ, I would trust them that it's totally fine.
http://www.sti.jp/parts/catalogue/br...8050ST060.html

Thats just a generic oil they use across their range, it's not specific to the FA20.

If you're in the US use the Toyota 0w-20. It's good value for money.

Our owners manual down under says to use 0w-20 or 5w-30 only, so that's what I'd run http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15172
All a thicker is going to do is create more drag on the engine reducing performance & economy.

[Synack]

I bought 0W-30 Mobil 1

stock first oil was disgusting

[chulooz]

Originally Posted by SXE10

Thats just a generic oil they use across their range, it's not specific to the FA20.

All a thicker is going to do is create more drag on the engine reducing performance & economy.

Its listed under the BRZ, thus Subaru knowingly sells a 5w40 for the FA20 through STI.

... and thicker oil will offer higher levels of wear protection, especially within tolerances.

[Jimbo]

Originally Posted by Synack

I may step up to 5W-40 if the 30 isn't good enough.

Just curious... How will you determine that the 5W-40 isn't good enough?

-J

[SXE10]

It's also listed for every other model on their web site chulooz (which are turbo might I add). It's a bit of a misconception that higher viscosity = improved wear protection. In reality it's determined by the additive pack i.e. how much moly is in it etc. I think your confusing it with an oils ability to resist shear.
As I've said if an engine is designed for 20 or 30 weight all running a 40 weight oil is going to do is create unnecessary drag on it.


He'd have to get a UOA done to determine if the 30 weight is holding up Jimbo.

[Synack]

UOA?

[SXE10]

Used Oil Analysis

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by SXE10

It's also listed for every other model on their web site chulooz (which are turbo might I add). It's a bit of a misconception that higher viscosity = improved wear protection. In reality it's determined by the additive pack i.e. how much moly is in it etc. I think your confusing it with an oils ability to resist shear.
As I've said if an engine is designed for 20 or 30 weight all running a 40 weight oil is going to do is create unnecessary drag on it.

He'd have to get a UOA done to determine if the 30 weight is holding up Jimbo.

+1. Even in racing or with an aftermarket turbo, I would go with a more robust 0W-20 or 5W-20 than jumping up in visocisty. Something like Motul 300V 0W-20 or Red Line 0W-20 and use used oil analysis to determine how the oil is holding up under the conditions.

The M1 0W-30 that Synack mentioned is a light 30 weight and will likely shear to a 20 weight under hard use anyway.

-Dennis