Camber Bolt Help Please! - Page 3 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

gmookher · 09-09-2012, 04:50 PM

I had to return the 14mm whiteline bolts, the think and say they work and fit but there is way too much slop and the lobe is too small.

xwd · 09-09-2012, 05:04 PM

You put them in the lower hole right?

gmookher · 09-09-2012, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwx

You put them in the lower hole right?

shit no, was that my mistake? I just followed instructions which said upper hold- I still have the box let me run to garage and see if they like the lower hole better...

jamal · 09-09-2012, 05:25 PM

Read my posts in this thread all the way through.

ultra · 09-10-2012, 07:11 AM

I'm wondering how much adjustment I'll be able to get with the Whiteline bolts (which I have).

Also wondering if a combo of OEM crash bolts in the top strut mounting holes PLUS Whiteline camber bolts in the lower holes might be a viable solution for even more negative camber.

Of course you'd lose spring/tire clearance by going that route and the geometry wouldn't be as ideal but it could be an alternative to running adjustable top hats.

We probably only need around minus 2 degrees up front on our cars unless more is needed for some extreme track/drift setup on a lowered car.

gmookher · 09-10-2012, 10:29 AM

nah...wouldnt swap out both bolts..

I was just being a dumass, the whitelines fit fine in the lower bolts
The bolts are a nice solution if you for some reason arent gonna run coil overs or plates

I was able to get both sides to an even -1 degree without any fuss. I fyou want to squeeze out another quarter degree it can be done, but a 2nd person is needed to 'hold' the bolt at torque to get that last bit out. I dont buy the advertised 1.75degs.

ultra · 09-10-2012, 01:31 PM

Good info.

jamal · 09-10-2012, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultra

Of course you'd lose spring/tire clearance by going that route and the geometry wouldn't be as ideal but it could be an alternative to running adjustable top hats.

It actually would be more ideal to add camber with bolts than tops from a geometry standpoint because you are not increasing the SAI. SAI causes camber loss with steering angle so you don't want to add any more than necessary (you need some to provide good steering feel and self-centering force).

ultra · 09-10-2012, 06:18 PM

OK, now you've got me curious about my ghetto double camber bolt idea.

jamal · 09-11-2012, 02:47 AM

At that point you're better off just taking a grinder or dremel to the holes in the strut to slot them out. You could even go so far as to weld washers back onto the flanges once you have the holes in the right place so there wasn't a big elongated hole but it's not really necessary.

getbent · 09-11-2012, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmookher

I was able to get both sides to an even -1 degree without any fuss. I fyou want to squeeze out another quarter degree it can be done, but a 2nd person is needed to 'hold' the bolt at torque to get that last bit out. I dont buy the advertised 1.75degs.

Do you already have lowering springs? Is it possible to just use the OEM crash bolts or whiteline camber bolts to bring a moderately (1 inch or less) lowered car back into proper camber specification?

86drift · 09-11-2012, 08:31 PM

Just to clear up some info on the whiteline parts (since I have them installed in my car).

The Group N spec strut tops are in fact hard rubber. Gives a little camber and castor.
The camber bolts are 16mm and not 14mm. They go in the TOP hole. Part number is KCA416 and are +/-1.5deg. They're easy to adjust and will not slip.
Whiteline Camber Bolts

gmookher · 09-11-2012, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86drift

Just to clear up some info on the whiteline parts (since I have them installed in my car).

The Group N spec strut tops are in fact hard rubber. Gives a little camber and castor.
The camber bolts are 16mm and not 14mm. They go in the TOP hole. Part number is KCA416 and are +/-1.5deg. They're easy to adjust and will not slip.
Whiteline Camber Bolts

KCA416 that makes alot more sense, and would explain why they belong in the top hole

where does one get these stateside?

jamal · 09-11-2012, 08:51 PM

Yes, KCA416 would work in the top hole. KCA414, which is what the OP is about, will not.

should be available from anyone that carries whiteline. I'll have to check and see if WL US has any in stock. Actually Eibach/SPC/ingalls should have one that size for much less. Try 81280

09-10-2012, 07:11 AM	#33
ultra Curious cat. Join Date: May 2012 Drives: 86 GT base M/T - Red Location: Dubai Posts: 775 Thanks: 840 Thanked 383 Times in 191 Posts Mentioned: 31 Post(s)	I'm wondering how much adjustment I'll be able to get with the Whiteline bolts (which I have). Also wondering if a combo of OEM crash bolts in the top strut mounting holes PLUS Whiteline camber bolts in the lower holes might be a viable solution for even more negative camber. Of course you'd lose spring/tire clearance by going that route and the geometry wouldn't be as ideal but it could be an alternative to running adjustable top hats. We probably only need around minus 2 degrees up front on our cars unless more is needed for some extreme track/drift setup on a lowered car. __________________ 2013 Toyota 86 GT M/T 2009 Renault Clio Sport R27 Team F1 Edition (sold) 1991 Mazda MX5 Miata (sold) 2007 Mitsubishi Evo 9 RS (sold) 2006 VW Golf R32 (sold)

09-10-2012, 01:31 PM	#35
ultra Curious cat. Join Date: May 2012 Drives: 86 GT base M/T - Red Location: Dubai Posts: 775 Thanks: 840 Thanked 383 Times in 191 Posts Mentioned: 31 Post(s)	Good info. __________________ 2013 Toyota 86 GT M/T 2009 Renault Clio Sport R27 Team F1 Edition (sold) 1991 Mazda MX5 Miata (sold) 2007 Mitsubishi Evo 9 RS (sold) 2006 VW Golf R32 (sold)

09-10-2012, 06:18 PM	#37
ultra Curious cat. Join Date: May 2012 Drives: 86 GT base M/T - Red Location: Dubai Posts: 775 Thanks: 840 Thanked 383 Times in 191 Posts Mentioned: 31 Post(s)	OK, now you've got me curious about my ghetto double camber bolt idea. __________________ 2013 Toyota 86 GT M/T 2009 Renault Clio Sport R27 Team F1 Edition (sold) 1991 Mazda MX5 Miata (sold) 2007 Mitsubishi Evo 9 RS (sold) 2006 VW Golf R32 (sold)

09-11-2012, 08:51 PM	#42
jamal Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Drives: Legacy GT Location: compton Posts: 534 Thanks: 9 Thanked 368 Times in 206 Posts Mentioned: 11 Post(s)	Yes, KCA416 would work in the top hole. KCA414, which is what the OP is about, will not. should be available from anyone that carries whiteline. I'll have to check and see if WL US has any in stock. Actually Eibach/SPC/ingalls should have one that size for much less. Try 81280 Last edited by jamal; 09-12-2012 at 12:43 AM.

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09-09-2012, 04:50 PM	#29
gmookher Banned Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: VortechSC,BorlaEL,Perrin,GCRace Location: HighHeatHighAltitudeAZ,USA Posts: 2,254 Thanks: 458 Thanked 669 Times in 394 Posts Mentioned: 9 Post(s)	I had to return the 14mm whiteline bolts, the think and say they work and fit but there is way too much slop and the lobe is too small.

09-09-2012, 05:04 PM	#30
xwd Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Drives: 2013 DGM Subaru BRZ (Subie #9) Location: ATL, US Posts: 2,667 Thanks: 123 Thanked 861 Times in 552 Posts Mentioned: 32 Post(s)	You put them in the lower hole right?

09-09-2012, 05:25 PM	#32
jamal Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Drives: Legacy GT Location: compton Posts: 534 Thanks: 9 Thanked 368 Times in 206 Posts Mentioned: 11 Post(s)	Read my posts in this thread all the way through.

09-10-2012, 10:29 AM	#34
gmookher Banned Join Date: Aug 2012 Drives: VortechSC,BorlaEL,Perrin,GCRace Location: HighHeatHighAltitudeAZ,USA Posts: 2,254 Thanks: 458 Thanked 669 Times in 394 Posts Mentioned: 9 Post(s)	nah...wouldnt swap out both bolts.. I was just being a dumass, the whitelines fit fine in the lower bolts The bolts are a nice solution if you for some reason arent gonna run coil overs or plates I was able to get both sides to an even -1 degree without any fuss. I fyou want to squeeze out another quarter degree it can be done, but a 2nd person is needed to 'hold' the bolt at torque to get that last bit out. I dont buy the advertised 1.75degs.

09-11-2012, 02:47 AM	#38
jamal Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Drives: Legacy GT Location: compton Posts: 534 Thanks: 9 Thanked 368 Times in 206 Posts Mentioned: 11 Post(s)	At that point you're better off just taking a grinder or dremel to the holes in the strut to slot them out. You could even go so far as to weld washers back onto the flanges once you have the holes in the right place so there wasn't a big elongated hole but it's not really necessary.

09-11-2012, 08:31 PM	#40
86drift Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Toyota 86 GT Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 517 Thanks: 85 Thanked 263 Times in 147 Posts Mentioned: 24 Post(s)	Just to clear up some info on the whiteline parts (since I have them installed in my car). The Group N spec strut tops are in fact hard rubber. Gives a little camber and castor. The camber bolts are 16mm and not 14mm. They go in the TOP hole. Part number is KCA416 and are +/-1.5deg. They're easy to adjust and will not slip. Whiteline Camber Bolts

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