Suspension Review: Race Comp Yellow Springs

[SWPBRZ415]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Removing the strut can change the alignment, especially since the crash bolts aren't set to max neg camber. (Are you sure they used them?) You can loosen the top nut a few turns, but do not remove it entirely.

yea, sure they use them to tighten. I'm gonna go loosen the nut few turns & see if that works.

[mechaghost]

did you guys get an alignment done?

[SWPBRZ415]

SO i loosen the top nut went for a drive and no dice, poping still there.
Yea, i got my alignment done, running 1.5- all around.

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by SWPBRZ415

SO i loosen the top nut went for a drive and no dice, poping still there.
Yea, i got my alignment done, running 1.5- all around.

Maybe the bearing itself has been damaged? Not sure.

And just to be 100% sure, make sure the black upper spring perches are actually there.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Please call us today if you can! It will go to Myles' cell but he should be able to help. It does sound like a faulty install more than a faulty top hat. They should be silent. Happy labor day.

- drew

[mechaghost]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Please call us today if you can! It will go to Myles' cell but he should be able to help. It does sound like a faulty install more than a faulty top hat. They should be silent. Happy labor day.

- drew

I'll give you guys a call on tuesday when I am at the shop so Myles can talk to the mechanic directly

[Racecomp Engineering]

I drove on this setup for about 6 weeks and yes on BIGG bumps you get the normal THUD from any strut suspension with firmer springs etc. The issue I remember with assembly of the front struts is that unless you pay super close attention to the assembly of the noise isolator as you release the tension of the spring in the compressor its SUPER easy for the TOP rubber noise isolator to get deformed and this allows METAL ON METAL contact of the spring and the upper perch.......on PART of the front contact area. SO in other words part of the spring is resting on the rubber isolator and part is on the perch.

As for the COM-C hats, I also have these on my car now with JRZ's and 400 lb springs. On BIG INNER CITY nasty bumps , yes I get a THUD also. Notice the clearance between the UPPER perch and the WL com-C hat? I will find another picture to show this better but I have already called Whiteline USA about this. So I await their response. THAT is not the same as what the op is talking about but I bring it up as its related but could be heard on the LARGER bumps.

http://https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.ne...09371278_o.jpg

Picture is hosted on our FB page if this doesnt show up.

So the clearance changes when turning and when going over bumps.

When we installed the Com-c hats or even when we did the regular mounts we found it took several attempts to get the rubber isolator to align with the perch AND get the spring to sit properly on the bottom perch. This is MUCH more difficult than on an Impreza, MUCH.

Check the installation l

My cell is 443 370 9000 is anyone has any questions.

Myles

[SWPBRZ415]

so i redid the installation, rubber isolator between the top perch & spring is in place. Bottom of spring seated correctly, all bolts tighten. Went for a spin the popping is still there when i turn the wheel. So now just have to wait to see what WL has to say.
So far theres 2 of us with this problem, if theres anymore of you guys out there with this problem please post up.

Thanks Myles for answering my questions. Awsome customer service right there.

[Draco-REX]

Got to be bad bearings..

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Got to be bad bearings..

Just spoke with customer and verified that springs are tight between perches. I wonder if the newer style NON conical washer style upper perch doesnt allow for full turning on the lower side of the Com-C. ( to be clear, allows movement but with some resistance) Looking at the close ups of the perch this almost makes sense. The main thing here is that there is some resistance on the top of the assembly that causes the spring to want to move even with 800lbs on that corner of the car.

Customer will take step by step pics of the installation so I can see what he is doing. With about 26 others having these and most of them I have talked to this past week who got there's on, I know this isnt a spring issue but question the install or the com-c.

If there is anyone in the Maryland area who plans to install these let us know we could do it this week to check a few things.

Myles

[Racecomp Engineering]

pic of the top perch that now(compared to the Impreza) doesnt require a 5mm OEM conical washer. Notice the marks in the perch built in washer?

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...60207038_o.jpg

That washer is wide, but not sure how much wider than the bottom of the com-c mount. I will verify once I get back into the shop. Not sure if any in stock.

Mw

[mechaghost]

Is the popping going to cause any damage to the springs? Should I not be driving the car?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by mechaghost

Is the popping going to cause any damage to the springs? Should I not be driving the car?

Without being there to hear it I cant say but always err on the side of caution.

Mw

[Smudgeous]

I had originally been planning on getting the RCE yellows starter kit, but due to time constraints, I settled for the Eibach Pro Kits instead. I also separately ordered the Whiteline tophats and their 16mm camber bolts as well.

The install was done by me on jackstands with an impact wrench. After making pretty much every mistake possible on a first time install of suspension parts, I realized that I had not properly tightened the bolt that holds the spring to the strut. Instead of securing the bolt's inside with an allen key and tightening with a box wrench, I had originally just tightened it with the impact wrench. Once I realized my error, I removed each strut and re-tightened them.

After fixing this issue, I also have the same issues with popping that a few other people are having. About a week ago, I had stopped by a shop to get an idea what the problem is, and they found that the camber bolts had not been tightened enough either. They didn't actually remove any wheels, but tightened what they could, and it seems to have lessened the number of pops and severity of the noise. However, it is still quite noticeable.

When I replaced the OEM springs with the new ones, I had made sure to seat the spring onto the strut so that the bottom end was flat against the metal "wall" of the strut and the top end matched up with the indent of the OEM spring.