How (NOT) to install coilovers

[D1cker]

As someone who owns a rattle gun and has worked on his own cars for a long time. They aren't that hard to use, I have mine set to where if I just run it til it starts to impact I only get like 40lb/ft.

I see nothing wrong with it if you're not retarded.

[jamal]

I love when people who have barely if at all worked on cars tell mechanics how to do their job.

You get a pretty good feel for what the gun is doing. Obviously there are some things that should be tightened by hand and with a torque wrench, but for most suspension/drivetrain work, yeah, I'm using it.

[kiks]

Originally Posted by goke186

Ok, so you are saying since I know how to use a torque gun then you will let me pull your car apart then put it all back together with said torque gun without you watching or checking my work?

No problem from me at all mate, if a mechanic treats my car the same as I do or better, I'm more than pleased! If some muppet spent 40 mins flicking through a service manual and winding a torque wrench up to do up a set of clevis bolts I'd probably call him a ****head.

I liberally yank apart every car I own to do various shit and I think I've used a torque wrench to set a pinion preload...and thats about it. Everything else...brrt, brrt, brrt, brrrrrrrrrrrrt, brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrt, brt, brrrt. We're not talking about torque to yield rod and head bolts here dude, we're talking about a couple of 12/14/16mm bolts in the suspension, yank that shit up tight.

I weep for the day one of you whingers needs to work out how to torque up a rack end on one of these....unless you are possibly the biggest retard on the planet and between working on cars spend your time licking windows and masturbating with silverwear; you quickly learn how much torque your gun is applying just from sight, feel, and noise. And the guys here who post shit about how much weight to set on double sided tape to put shark fins on etc...They have precisely zero business commenting on how someone does their job unless there is a problem with it. Which there isnt. Torque tubes are for muppets in tyre shops who like having bits of vanadium fly into paint work when they explode.

[Brody8877]

Originally Posted by vividracing

My reference is to The service manual saying yes you have to remove the alternator to access the bolt for the exhaust (hypothetical) and when it was written they did not have Wobble sockets or what have you. Now I can get to said bolt without removing.
However every service manual is written without any air tools, as they can not require any one to own them when it is "possible" with a hand tool. The service times and labor ops are all quoted on the national standard. A select few technicians are selected to do a certain job, lets say a clutch. All 100 do it and they take the average time to determine what everyone gets paid.

I don't mean short cuts with such the negative connotation. All the work is still done, but sometimes there is room for safe, and effective improvement.

I agree. There is a wrong way and wrong time to use an impact. But I dont see anything wrong to be honest.

[mla163]

Originally Posted by kiks

No problem from me at all mate, if a mechanic treats my car the same as I do or better, I'm more than pleased! If some muppet spent 40 mins flicking through a service manual and winding a torque wrench up to do up a set of clevis bolts I'd probably call him a ****head.

I liberally yank apart every car I own to do various shit and I think I've used a torque wrench to set a pinion preload...and thats about it. Everything else...brrt, brrt, brrt, brrrrrrrrrrrrt, brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrt, brt, brrrt. We're not talking about torque to yield rod and head bolts here dude, we're talking about a couple of 12/14/16mm bolts in the suspension, yank that shit up tight.

I weep for the day one of you whingers needs to work out how to torque up a rack end on one of these....unless you are possibly the biggest retard on the planet and between working on cars spend your time licking windows and masturbating with silverwear; you quickly learn how much torque your gun is applying just from sight, feel, and noise. And the guys here who post shit about how much weight to set on double sided tape to put shark fins on etc...They have precisely zero business commenting on how someone does their job unless there is a problem with it. Which there isnt. Torque tubes are for muppets in tyre shops who like having bits of vanadium fly into paint work when they explode.

I like this guy.

I am reading your posts in an Australian accent. It makes it funnier.

[FA20Club.com]

Originally Posted by kiks

No problem from me at all mate, if a mechanic treats my car the same as I do or better, I'm more than pleased! If some muppet spent 40 mins flicking through a service manual and winding a torque wrench up to do up a set of clevis bolts I'd probably call him a ****head.

I liberally yank apart every car I own to do various shit and I think I've used a torque wrench to set a pinion preload...and thats about it. Everything else...brrt, brrt, brrt, brrrrrrrrrrrrt, brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrt, brt, brrrt. We're not talking about torque to yield rod and head bolts here dude, we're talking about a couple of 12/14/16mm bolts in the suspension, yank that shit up tight.

I weep for the day one of you whingers needs to work out how to torque up a rack end on one of these....unless you are possibly the biggest retard on the planet and between working on cars spend your time licking windows and masturbating with silverwear; you quickly learn how much torque your gun is applying just from sight, feel, and noise. And the guys here who post shit about how much weight to set on double sided tape to put shark fins on etc...They have precisely zero business commenting on how someone does their job unless there is a problem with it. Which there isnt. Torque tubes are for muppets in tyre shops who like having bits of vanadium fly into paint work when they explode.

well said. most with negative opinions have never been or will be a tech in the auto industry. when you know your tools and how to apply load using them you wont over torque or break bolts. its great to specifically torque everything down. but thats not always the case. half the places in a car you wont be able to use a torque wrench. what then...? you better learn the feel of stretching a bolt by hand otherwise your screwed. you guys are so worried about the quality of work and how they did a job. take your new car in for work at the glorified dealer and this is exactly what you get. you cant see they guy work on your car and these are the exact reasons why you are kept in the waiting room. yet the majority of you love the fact your car carries a warranty so its a double edged sword. your opinion is valued but this is the internet and everyone looks for something to comment on in order to voice there opinion to see how many people agree or disagree.....

[Nafe]

Originally Posted by jamal

I love when people who have barely if at all worked on cars tell mechanics how to do their job.

You get a pretty good feel for what the gun is doing. Obviously there are some things that should be tightened by hand and with a torque wrench, but for most suspension/drivetrain work, yeah, I'm using it.

These people can be called "internetz mechanicz"

[style86]

you realize that YOUR car was built at the factory that uses all pneumatic air ratchets. These are not torque to yield head bolts...

[Supermassive]

Originally Posted by kiks

No problem from me at all mate, if a mechanic treats my car the same as I do or better, I'm more than pleased! If some muppet spent 40 mins flicking through a service manual and winding a torque wrench up to do up a set of clevis bolts I'd probably call him a ****head.

I liberally yank apart every car I own to do various shit and I think I've used a torque wrench to set a pinion preload...and thats about it. Everything else...brrt, brrt, brrt, brrrrrrrrrrrrt, brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrt, brt, brrrt. We're not talking about torque to yield rod and head bolts here dude, we're talking about a couple of 12/14/16mm bolts in the suspension, yank that shit up tight.

I weep for the day one of you whingers needs to work out how to torque up a rack end on one of these....unless you are possibly the biggest retard on the planet and between working on cars spend your time licking windows and masturbating with silverwear; you quickly learn how much torque your gun is applying just from sight, feel, and noise. And the guys here who post shit about how much weight to set on double sided tape to put shark fins on etc...They have precisely zero business commenting on how someone does their job unless there is a problem with it. Which there isnt. Torque tubes are for muppets in tyre shops who like having bits of vanadium fly into paint work when they explode.

Best response post ever...

I would never say that I am at the level of a mechanic as far as my automotive experience level is concerned, but after using an air ratchet and pretty much any other pneumatic tools that i could find, you do get a real sense for what they are doing.

As for people crying about torquing down suspension components...get a clue, torque figures on parts like that are a safe minimum to keep them from coming apart. Those bolts and their nuts/hardware are rated for far more torque than what a manual says and as anyone who has swapped out their crank pulley can attest to...there's no freakin way that thing was "just" 85 ft/lbs, i had to use a 3ft breaker bar to pop that sucker off, the last time i needed that much effort to remove a bolt was the rear wheel axle nuts on my '72 super beetle which you torqued to 150ft/lbs...

[Dave-ROR]

Coming from just an "internetz mechanic"...

I find it funny that we are confusing the "right way" from a technical perspective with the "right way" from a billing the most job hours perspective.

I've used air tools for quite a while, have a lift to use on my cars, etc and I do use air tools to remove everything and to snug everything, I just don't blast away at it like most mechanics do (I'm sure there are exceptions). There are actually very few things I actually torque (engine internals, transmission internals, driveline and wheels) so I don't exactly do it by the book either, but I've never had to stand at the end of a breaker bar to get a lug nut off my stuff like I've had to on cars that went to shops.

Fitting as many job/book hours into a work day is the concern of mechanics at shops, let's not kid ourselves on that. I'm not saying they don't care about doing quality work, but they will ALWAYS do things in the quickest possible way that will work.

Also, KW states, in BOLD, never to use an impact on the shaft nut because the high speed rotation of the shaft *CAN* damage the damper. It has happened before and has happened to OEM dampers already to a member of this site. That alone shows Vivid "doing it wrong". Also, in a "how-to" video once would expect them to be showing end users how to install the product, not how a shop would do so... Darren's how to/DIY is better for normal users here.

And I'm not completely against using an impact to tigthen, but I will acknowledge why I do it (speed and it's easy) and not try to claim it's the *correct* way of doing things. I impact the hell out of everything during pit stops with the race car (using feel and accurately, so I do understand where you guys on coming on that) but I don't when I have the time.

For the poster who mentioned factories, they tighten to stretch, loosen, then torque. Yes, with air tools, but precision, not based on the feel of the worker who happens to be on the assembly line that day.

The crank pulley example.. heat cycling, corrosion, etc all play a part there. Doesn't mean the bolt was installed with more than the specified torque spec.

[ST185RC]

Someone mentioned impact gun bad on lug nuts in this thread? I'd rather use an impact gun than a tire iron like some wannabe mechanics that put their full body weight into tightening a lug and rounding the lug because something slipped.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by ST185RC

Someone mentioned impact gun bad on lug nuts in this thread? I'd rather use an impact gun than a tire iron like some wannabe mechanics that put their full body weight into tightening a lug and rounding the lug because something slipped.

LOL for that there is no fixing stupid. That's why you keep a 90lb girl and a 1 foot long bar around..

[daytrip00]

Originally Posted by kiks

God you bunch are a finnicky gaggle of muppets.

From threads about how much torque to do up a sump plug, to how much torque on strut tops I dont know how you all get out of bed in the morning. OCD much?

everyone with a rattle gun who has enough talent to scratch their arse gets to know their rattle gun and has an appreciation for how long you hold it on versus how much torque based on the application.

I've actually done an engineering STUDY on this and your claim is patently absurd. impact wrenched bolts often end up torqued as much as 150% over spec. The variance is huge and often bolts are torqued well over the ultimate yield strength of the bolts (which is generally about 80% higher than the torque spec of the bolt). A bunch of shade tree mechanics (in this case masquerading as "tuners") can tell you it's *fine*, but engineers who actually study the problem know it's not.

[RRnold]

Damn, you guys whine and bitch about everything!!

You guys need to worry more about someone accidentally hitting your car than "Jose" installing a set of coilovers.