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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!

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Old 08-29-2012, 02:00 AM   #15
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I was discussing that at dinner tonight with a group of S2k owners who have been tracking their cars recently and we all came to the same conclusion. Part of the reason the AP1 is fast is that it's "looser". Loose is fast, we've heard that one before.
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:03 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_classic View Post
I was discussing that at dinner tonight with a group of S2k owners who have been tracking their cars recently and we all came to the same conclusion. Part of the reason the AP1 is fast is that it's "looser". Loose is fast, we've heard that one before.
Only if you can keep it under control

But yes, I totally agree.
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:04 AM   #17
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Who.. I see what you're talking about. I'm curious why it's flashing when all the aids are turned off.

Either:
1: They're not totally turned off... but then how come it lets me do big smokey donuts in the traction circle test?

or

2: The aids are indeed turned off but the light still blinks at you when it detects slip.
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_classic View Post
Who.. I see what you're talking about. I'm curious why it's flashing when all the aids are turned off.

Either:
1: They're not totally turned off... but then how come it lets me do big smokey donuts in the traction circle test?

or

2: The aids are indeed turned off but the light still blinks at you when it detects slip.
We're waiting for a service manual to get in.... the rumor is that once certain fuses are pulled, that it'll stop doing that, and hopefully I'll be able to get the car to rotate more with trail braking. That alone would help lap times immensely.

Alternatively, we might just disconnect one (or more) of the wheel speed sensors...
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Old 08-29-2012, 08:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
Our alignment in this video is:

Front
-1.1 camber
0 toe

Rear
-1.4 camber
0 toe

Our stock alignment was:

Front
0 camber
1/16" toe-in

Rear
-1.25 camber
3/64" toe-in

How did you achieve the camber gains? Using the OEM smaller bolts up front and just loosening the rear and try to get as much camber as you can and then tighten back up again? Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:25 PM   #20
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Running a bit of Toe-out in the front will help turn in and may aid in overcoming corner entry understeer.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:40 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_classic View Post
Who.. I see what you're talking about. I'm curious why it's flashing when all the aids are turned off.

Either:
1: They're not totally turned off... but then how come it lets me do big smokey donuts in the traction circle test?

or

2: The aids are indeed turned off but the light still blinks at you when it detects slip.
Mine did it under braking in a straight line and when using the curbing, the system didn't DO anything, just flashed.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_classic View Post
Running a bit of Toe-out in the front will help turn in and may aid in overcoming corner entry understeer.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:06 PM   #23
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nice driving......I would also mention that the S2000 appears more modified than the BRZ is.....the BRZ sounds like it is still on stock exhaust (quiet) and the S2000 is NOT....its safe to say the S2000 probably has a few other mods as well.....

S2000's are quite good as track cars.....minimal mods (tires-suspension-brake pads) is really all it needs to turn pretty solid laps for a solid driver.... I recall chasing a lightly modified S2000 with a good (but novice) driver....we were turning around 2:10's at Thunderhill (I managed only a 2:18 bone stock in my FRS).....it took me a couple laps to set him up for a pass......
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:00 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ft86Fan View Post
How did you achieve the camber gains? Using the OEM smaller bolts up front and just loosening the rear and try to get as much camber as you can and then tighten back up again? Thanks.
14MM bolts in the front, and exactly what you said for the rear.

The Subaru "crash" bolts are eccentric, and we couldn't get as much out of them.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:48 PM   #25
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Not to thread jack..

I too was curious about the flashing and if that was affecting anything. I primarily drift and at the drift event it was constantly flashing (for obvious reasons) with everything off so I assume it just flashes but I cant be 100% sure. Sometimes it felt like something was being held back but for all I know, its just me as a driver and being so used to having much more power I forgot how it feels to drift something more underpowered.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWIRAMA5jOE"]First time drifting my Scion FR-S - YouTube[/ame]

You can definitely see the flashing when I am in the rain starting around 1:08, hard to see the flashing due to my camera angles otherwise.
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Old 08-30-2012, 04:18 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
14MM bolts in the front, and exactly what you said for the rear.

The Subaru "crash" bolts are eccentric, and we couldn't get as much out of them.

The proper BRZ ones are just smaller (same exact bolt as the lower strut bolt). The eccentric ones are for an impreza.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:34 PM   #27
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I was proud to see a "big bad wolf" running for it's life from a BRZ / FRS! The outcome was better than I had anticipated!



LL-FRS!
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:35 AM   #28
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Well, to be fair, my personal S2k would be pulling from the BRZ in both straights and turns, except for in the turn "Riverside", which is the high speed right sweeper. Even with my wing, the rear will come out there at around 96-97, whereas the BRZ will keep accelerating.
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