Random thoughts thread

[ichitaka05]

Originally Posted by Giccin

Happy Birthday Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm 17! :P

that long "M" better not be a kiss!

[Giccin]

Originally Posted by ichitaka05

that long "M" better not be a kiss!

Hah! No. lol

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Want.FR-S

How about this one?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/cto/3203398472.html

or more expensive one here: (2005 model)

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/3176159850.html

The first list seems to match to the one you were looking for. But I couldn't tell if it is a manual.

Criagslist search result:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/search/c...inAsk=&maxAsk=

OH CRAP thanks I didn't see those because I typed "MR2 Spyder" instead of "MR-2 Spyder". The one in Aptos looks to fit the bill, except that's a bit of a drive :/ I guess no pain no gain though?

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Person asked 5500 for a silver 138k 5 MT with cracked windshield and dead soft top.

Don't want an SW20, they do look cooler but I like how the SW30 is much lighter, and I don't like the idea of a >25? year old engine design. Don't get started on Mk1s, not interested in driving something >20 years old :P

Well if you pull the iron-block motor and replace it with something modern and light, that could balance things a bit. I've heard that 2GR swaps keep the same weight and balance, so going to a 1/2ZZ or 1/2AZ could knockoff 100+ lbs maybe? Plus I think the coupe is much better aero-wise than the hard/soft top.

Is it the mid-engine aero stuff that you are interested in?

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Dimman

Well if you pull the iron-block motor and replace it with something modern and light, that could balance things a bit. I've heard that 2GR swaps keep the same weight and balance, so going to a 1/2ZZ or 1/2AZ could knockoff 100+ lbs maybe? Plus I think the coupe is much better aero-wise than the hard/soft top.

Is it the mid-engine aero stuff that you are interested in?

Yea but replacing it is too much of a hassle. I'd rather have a 1ZZ that can be driven for several more years, and then when I want to/can afford it/need to I can replace that.

At this point, a 1NZ is actually sounding pretty good. Full service weight over 20lbs lighter than a dry 1ZZ. Let's just call that 11L of "water" (oil is lighter, so it gets a discount), which is another 24.5lb. Would need to dyno Prius cams to see what they do above 4k since no one knows that, if volumetric efficiency drops like a rock due to lift, then maybe a more modern motor would be a better idea. That's assuming Toyota bothers designing new motors for North America, which I'm not so sure about.

The lighter weight of the SW30 means I won't feel bad about delaying the DIY hybrid system for a while (motor controllers and motors are f***ing expensive).

Oh also I just thought of another benefit to my Miller cycle idea, VVT can be removed as thermal efficiency at WOT will be at its peak (or close enough) with the cam in fully retarded position. Supercharger will provide consistent VE when engaged. Maybe have the exhaust close a tiny bit after TDC to allow a very little bit of scavenging. With a newer engine this means that if there's no way to reflash the ECU, I can just get a standalone that only controls spark/fuel/throttle, ditch all the VVT stuff.

[Want.FR-S]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

OH CRAP thanks I didn't see those because I typed "MR2 Spyder" instead of "MR-2 Spyder". The one in Aptos looks to fit the bill, except that's a bit of a drive :/ I guess no pain no gain though?

I figure the first listing is pretty decent, as long as it is a manual transmission and you have a place to park it at night. Having a convertible parked on street just makes me worry.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Want.FR-S

I figure the first listing is pretty decent, as long as it is a manual transmission and you have a place to park it at night. Having a convertible parked on street just makes me worry.

There's an SMT 2002 124k miles black for 5900 firm, looks very good in the pictures, which tbh isn't bad since it's a 2002, but I don't want to bother switching the SMT out. 3 pedals = priceless.

I'm slightly worried about the convertible parked on the street too, but I have a friend who does that with his Miata and it seems to be okay...Saw some convertible BMW 330 parked on the street too, owned by someone in my apartment complex I think. I guess that's what insurance is for right? Insurance rates aren't too high, doesn't seem like a common occurrence then.

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Yea but replacing it is too much of a hassle. I'd rather have a 1ZZ that can be driven for several more years, and then when I want to/can afford it/need to I can replace that.

At this point, a 1NZ is actually sounding pretty good. Full service weight over 20lbs lighter than a dry 1ZZ. Let's just call that 11L of "water" (oil is lighter, so it gets a discount), which is another 24.5lb. Would need to dyno Prius cams to see what they do above 4k since no one knows that, if volumetric efficiency drops like a rock due to lift, then maybe a more modern motor would be a better idea. That's assuming Toyota bothers designing new motors for North America, which I'm not so sure about.

The lighter weight of the SW30 means I won't feel bad about delaying the DIY hybrid system for a while (motor controllers and motors are f***ing expensive).

Oh also I just thought of another benefit to my Miller cycle idea, VVT can be removed as thermal efficiency at WOT will be at its peak (or close enough) with the cam in fully retarded position. Supercharger will provide consistent VE when engaged. Maybe have the exhaust close a tiny bit after TDC to allow a very little bit of scavenging. With a newer engine this means that if there's no way to reflash the ECU, I can just get a standalone that only controls spark/fuel/throttle, ditch all the VVT stuff.

How cheap do you want to go? http://www.diyautotune.com/

There's your stand-alone.

Also what other fueling ideas have you been looking at? The twin, phased injection system isn't terribly new. Toyota just did it with DI. You could look into 'showerhead' injection, where the injectors are quite far fron the valves. At higher intake velocity it gets better atomization or sucks mire heat out or something. On ITB setups they are on the far side of the throttle plates (I think this plays a role in atomization, hitting the plate at high speec), then also a conventional port injector. They can be tuned and phased similar to the D4-S if you had a standalone with 8 sequential injector capability.

[ichitaka05]

Hm... 16x7 (w 5x100) wheels are hard to come by used in my local classified

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Dimman

How cheap do you want to go? http://www.diyautotune.com/

There's your stand-alone.

Also what other fueling ideas have you been looking at? The twin, phased injection system isn't terribly new. Toyota just did it with DI. You could look into 'showerhead' injection, where the injectors are quite far fron the valves. At higher intake velocity it gets better atomization or sucks mire heat out or something. On ITB setups they are on the far side of the throttle plates (I think this plays a role in atomization, hitting the plate at high speec), then also a conventional port injector. They can be tuned and phased similar to the D4-S if you had a standalone with 8 sequential injector capability.

Well, not going to actually do this for at least like 3 years, but yea having the injectors further is what I was thinking. When you have forced induction, volumetric efficiency goes out of the equation and the only thing that matters is how much heat the fuel can remove. If the fuel is vaporized before it hits the port, then it'll pick up a little less heat from the valve. Not as good as DI which can cool the piston surface, but simple and no issues with low speed operation.

I wonder how much weight can be saved by ditching VVT...lol.

[Dimman]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

Well, not going to actually do this for at least like 3 years, but yea having the injectors further is what I was thinking. When you have forced induction, volumetric efficiency goes out of the equation and the only thing that matters is how much heat the fuel can remove. If the fuel is vaporized before it hits the port, then it'll pick up a little less heat from the valve. Not as good as DI which can cool the piston surface, but simple and no issues with low speed operation.

I wonder how much weight can be saved by ditching VVT...lol.

But you still need the close port one for low rpm when velocity is low since fuel will have an easier time falling out of suspension with a further injector. You could split the fuel too, if you want to go crazy. Normal port, E85 showerhead. But two tanks, pumps, etc...

VVT-i is just an oil filled pulley and small valves. Not a huge weight increase.

[Want.FR-S]

Originally Posted by serialk11r

There's an SMT 2002 124k miles black for 5900 firm, looks very good in the pictures, which tbh isn't bad since it's a 2002, but I don't want to bother switching the SMT out. 3 pedals = priceless.

I'm slightly worried about the convertible parked on the street too, but I have a friend who does that with his Miata and it seems to be okay...Saw some convertible BMW 330 parked on the street too, owned by someone in my apartment complex I think. I guess that's what insurance is for right? Insurance rates aren't too high, doesn't seem like a common occurrence then.

If you insure a used car, the premium is not that high, even if you are new driver. I would think that is a good idea to start your insurance history.

And since it is a used car, if you don't mind minor dents and/or chips, park in the street is an option.

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Dimman

But you still need the close port one for low rpm when velocity is low since fuel will have an easier time falling out of suspension with a further injector. You could split the fuel too, if you want to go crazy. Normal port, E85 showerhead. But two tanks, pumps, etc...

VVT-i is just an oil filled pulley and small valves. Not a huge weight increase.

I think Miller cycle helps a little with that since fuel gets blown back and forth across the valve, but hmmm... if E85 is used at all I think it's best if there's the capability to squirt only E85 and make good use of the heat of vaporization.

One possible solution? would be independent throttle bodies (pull it off a Hayabusa or something lol) with injectors spraying right after. Don't know how well this would work though. With a supercharger, because the supercharger's chambers are moving quite a bit faster than anything else, it might work if the fuel was sprayed into the supercharger inlet. Hey, 200W of pumping loss, might as well use it right? lol

[serialk11r]

Originally Posted by Want.FR-S

If you insure a used car, the premium is not that high, even if you are new driver. I would think that is a good idea to start your insurance history.

And since it is a used car, if you don't mind minor dents and/or chips, park in the street is an option.

Putting it on my parents plan for sure, I quoted it, came out 280 a year for liability.