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Old 08-10-2012, 08:43 PM   #15
Skorov
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Originally Posted by wheelhaus View Post
The doors are the most important because they directly share the air space of the speakers. If you only plan to do a little bit, definitely focus here because this is the most sensetive area.

Other areas to look for would be any body panel that seems to rattle or resonate when you tap on it. Most of the interior panels will be relatively easy to pop loose to access the skin. The roof skin is a tricky one; it's exposed to the sun and the deadener can droop and sag from the heat, maybe leave it alone... For most of these noisy panels you only need to use a patch of deadener big enough to kill the resonation. You want a sort of dead thud when you tap it. For the doors, feel free to do as much as you like, you can even use some metal sheeting (like a punched mesh or something lightweight) to cover the openings in the inside door structure, and layer deadener over top of it. The more you add here the more acoustically solid the door will be. I've heard door speakers that have a REALLY impressive thump and midrange clarity that didn't exist before adding deadening. Check out a mobile audio site such as www.DIYmobileaudio.com for more ideas. Some of those guys are obsessive!

For installation, clean the surfaces well (finish with isopropyl alcohol) and use a roller or something to finish the application. Try to avoid air bubbles, its not critical but helps it last longer since the air will try to expand/contract from temp changes. Several small pieces are just as effective as one large piece. Overlapping and layering helps as well, and will improve the deadener effect. Aluminum tape is best for a long lasting finish over edges and other bits that need to be taped down. Overall it's not hard, just takes time.
Cool man! Thanks for the info. It really helped. I'll talk to my sound guy too about how much deadening I need (and where it should go). He'll be installing it too. He's done most of my sound stuff already (in previous cars) and I trust he'll do it properly.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:01 PM   #16
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...
I have JL 4inch c2's in there right now, and they make a big difference .. The fill is perfect
So 4" speakers will fit in the rear without any modifications? I thought the stock speakers are 3.5" so I was limiting my search to only that size.

BTW, I was leaning towards these guys for 3.5" speakers
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...002CFX&status=

I still might get them for the front.
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:02 PM   #17
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So 4" speakers will fit in the rear without any modifications? I thought the stock speakers are 3.5" so I was limiting my search to only that size.

BTW, I was leaning towards these guys for 3.5" speakers
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...002CFX&status=

I still might get them for the front.
Almost all of the time, a smaller speaker can be put into a larger hole with the right adapter. So if you want those, then go for it.

I can't believe that in this day and age, with globalisation being what it is, I STILL get this message from websites.
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This online store is only accesible from the United States of America.
For more information about HARMAN and its brands please visit Harman.com


It's proxy time.
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:37 PM   #18
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Sell them if you're running a sub.

If you're not running a sub, sell them and buy a sub.
LOL
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:00 PM   #19
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I have personally made custom brackets for 6x9s and it sucked, if you have never done it before don't its not worth it. Small speakers are just as good as large speakers except for the lower frequencies, you need a sub for that. Get speakers that fit the stock locations, just get high quality ones and for really good sound you will need a decent amp. Many ultra high end sound systems use smaller-ish speakers and they are always round. In either case use the stock speaker size.
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:28 PM   #20
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I have personally made custom brackets for 6x9s and it sucked, if you have never done it before don't its not worth it. Small speakers are just as good as large speakers except for the lower frequencies, you need a sub for that. Get speakers that fit the stock locations, just get high quality ones and for really good sound you will need a decent amp. Many ultra high end sound systems use smaller-ish speakers and they are always round. In either case use the stock speaker size.
Ok cheers. That put the nail in the coffin. 6x9s are being sold off.

Already got a nice mid-high end system (incl. sub and amps) waiting to be put in. It was just the 6x9s I was unsure about.

I just realised today that there's actually an empty hole for 3.5s in the front dash. (I think you guys in the States have have these included?) So I'll likely use the money to buy nice 3.5s to put in there.
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ahausheer View Post
I have personally made custom brackets for 6x9s and it sucked, if you have never done it before don't its not worth it. Small speakers are just as good as large speakers except for the lower frequencies, you need a sub for that. Get speakers that fit the stock locations, just get high quality ones and for really good sound you will need a decent amp. Many ultra high end sound systems use smaller-ish speakers and they are always round. In either case use the stock speaker size.
The round design is for stiffness, as a stiffer cone will produce sound more accurately. A ovalized cone is more flexible, and can resonate and flex at certain frequencies, coloring the sound. A round cone is inherently stiffer, as the voice coil pushes/pulls the cone back and forth, the cone and surround are loaded evenly, meaning the entire cone shape does exactly what the voice coil is trying to do.

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I just realised today that there's actually an empty hole for 3.5s in the front dash. (I think you guys in the States have have these included?) So I'll likely use the money to buy nice 3.5s to put in there.
Yeah I've just learned this about the AU cars, that sucks. Well, not if you're ripping them all out anyways! The US does indeed come with the full 8 speaker set (dash tweeter, dash 3.5, door 6.5, and rear 4.

You don't necessarily need a 3.5 to go there, it could make for a lot of extra work. A good matched set of mid/tweet should be plenty, even for a loud, clean, high end setup. If you're using a group of three drivers, it gets a bit more complicated. That means either buy a processor to do all your crossover points and amp each driver individually, or buy a set of 3-way matched drivers that come with their own dedicated passive 3-way crossover unit (like the 2-way passive crossovers that come with most 2-way component sets).

Personally, I'm just doing a 6.5 in the door with some sound deadening, with the tweeter up top. I may do a recessed pod so the tweeter isn't buried, but we'll see what works best when I eventually get the car...
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