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Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment Anything related to in-car electronics, navigation, and infotainment. |
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#29 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2013 Subaru BRZ 6MT Limited WRB
Location: Woodhaven, NY
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Oh Really? So the system out right now wouldn't even work for my keyless setup?
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#30 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: SWP BRZ
Location: Belle Province
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The Following User Says Thank You to Subforever For This Useful Post: | elbachatero1 (08-05-2012) |
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#31 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2013 Subaru BRZ 6MT Limited WRB
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Quote:
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#32 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: SWP BRZ
Location: Belle Province
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Im waiting for an appointement date, their planning is done so it should be pretty straight foward we will see. They need my car for 2 days and everything will stay on the car ! yeah freebee
![]() I will let you know as soon as my car is ready. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Subforever For This Useful Post: | elbachatero1 (08-07-2012) |
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#33 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2013 Subaru BRZ 6MT Limited WRB
Location: Woodhaven, NY
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Thanks let me know so I can place my order, I really want to get this done asap
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#34 |
Grip>Slip
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 13 SWP BRZ Ltd - Innovate Powered!
Location: RVA
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any updates?i assume your car is a limited?
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#35 |
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Yeah Limited (Sport-tech in Canada)
My contact told me that the appointement should be around the first week of september because their engineers are finalizing the firmware. As soon as i have news i will let you know. Cheers |
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#36 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2013 Subaru BRZ 6MT Limited WRB
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Any updates on a bypass for the limited trim? I want to get the remote start installed before it starts getting really cold here in NY lol...
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#37 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Drives: 99 Cobra, DOHC 32V 4.6 & Procharger
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Quote:
There are a few things about the outputs that have changed since the older systems, such as the power door lock outputs, (the new systems have the 451m relay to accommodate 5 wire systems), but that's not needed on this car, and it didn't take too long to get the hang of it. I just used the green/black and blue/black wires to activate the lock and unlock, then set the polarity with the relay input wires on the same harness. If you want negative trigger outputs, you connect the relay inputs to ground. If you want positive trigger outputs, you connect the relay inputs to 12V. First off, the pink and blue wires mentioned in the manual for the power locks ARE the correct wires. But the manual says they are a negative trigger, but instead they are a 12v trigger. It took me a little extra time to figure this out because I thought I had the wrong wires (as someone mentioned). All I had to do was switch the relay input wires to 12V instead of ground like I had originally set them up when I was setting up the initial connections on the work bench. All the other wires were correct and were located exactly where it said they would be. That includes the wires in the ignition harness for 12V, switched 12V, and starter. (they are the heavy gauge wires). I mounted the alarm box to a module that is on the left side of the steering column. It gave me just enough room to slide the alarm box on the left hand side of this module. Also, it was a good location because it's in relatively close proximity to the ignition harness and the kickpanel, where most of the other wires are hooked up. Overall, the install turned out real nice and neat. With the box mounted next to a factory module, with all of the (non ignition related) wires hidden and taped into a single harness thant ran down next to a factory harness into the kickpanel, so it looked like it came from the factory. I ran the ignition related wires (12V, switched, and starter interrupt) into a second harness up to the main ignition harness, soldered them up, and covered it all back up with the factory loom. I mounted the siren on the front of the drivers side strut tower mount. I ran the positive and negative wires in through the firewall and connected the ground with the common ground wire I used for the entire system. Then I connected the positive siren wire to the brown siren output wire. The neat thing about the firewall grommet in these cars is that there is a little nipple you can cut the end off, which looks like it was designed specifically for aftermarket wires such as this. The trunk pin and trunk release wires were in the exact places mentioned, and were a piece of cake. I used one of those aftermarket LED scanners, and I mounted it vertically on the drivers side A pillar, so its as close to the windshield as possible. Never mounted one there before, but it looked great when it was installed. If you do this, just make sure to clean off the plastic on the A pillar with an alcohol swab so the adhesive sticks. You can then neatly run the wires down to the alarm. (12V, ground, and ground when armed) Turns out I didn't need the dome supervision wire (which would have needed a relay anyway. But I was pleasantly surprised that the dome light came on anyway when I disarmed the system. So, I was happy with the install. The wiring turned out much neater than I thought it would. Down the road, I may connect some of the extra AUX outputs, but this car doesn't really have much else to connect to. I was thinking of maybe connecting an AUX channel to the headlights, (to light up the driveway or parking lot when walking to the car), or to the reverse light for extra lighting loading stuff into the trunk, to the rear defroster, and maybe even to the wipers. I know my write up was a little lengthy and lacked some specifics because I don't have my notes in front of me. I hope this was helpful. But if anyone wants more details, I'll be more than happy to help. I'm gonna try and take pictures of the wiring locations and mounting locations. And as always, never ever use butt connectors. Always solder your wires. It turns out sooo much nicer. And you don't have to worry about anything coming loose. Homer |
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The Following User Says Thank You to variable For This Useful Post: | Lee358 (12-22-2012) |
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#38 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Drives: Whiteout FR-S
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I'm no expert when it comes to remote starts and the like but for the FR-S I plan on going with a Viper 5704 I'm wondering what all is needed for it other than the unit itself. Shops here want $700+ for everything said and done and I refuse to go to Best Buy to get it done. Used to work for BB, I'm scarred by their practices >_>
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#39 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Drives: Toyota 86
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
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has anyone been able to install the viper 5904 with remote start to a keyless entry system yet? if anyone has, can you please explain to me how you bypassed the keyless entry system? im a little confused on how the car is able to start without the key :S
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#40 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2010 Subaru LGT
Location: San Jose, CA
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a good way to gauge an alarm installer's quality is to right upfront, ask him to solder all the wires, no T-taps...and see what his reaction is.
while i know most shops use T-taps on connections and on SOME connections they are okay, there are a few that IMO should always be soldered. we dont use a single T-tap, and all the wires are soldered. I myself dont ever do alarms, and i will never do one myself...it is one of thsoe things that i truly believe needs to be left to a good alarm guy, the trick is finding that guy ![]()
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Mobile Electronics Magazine Top 100 Installer 2012-2013
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#41 |
master boxxy driver
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: FR-S
Location: reseda CA
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Quick question guys I have a viper alarm installed in my car and I'm having some issues.. Taking it back to the dealer is not an option being that the guy that installed it is literally an idiot.. I have the gps module as well and whenever I use the remote start the car Sometimes turns on and or the car won't turn on and will not turn on until I turn the key maybe 20 times.. Dealership said the alarm was draining to much battery.. Is this possible and would a capacitor benefit this problem?
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