CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[RotARy15]

Just upgraded from a 2020 BRZ with Perf Pack to a 2025 tS. I bought some Raceseng CasCam plates a long time ago for the Gen1 Sachs dampers but never installed them and now I'm curious if there is any chance of using these on the new car.

With Raceseng out of business, I assume I can't find new bearings if the shaft diameter or perch changed.

ETA: What would be the recommended part for front camber on a dual purpose car? 2-3 degrees seems like a reasonable dual purpose setting. I've heard that people like adding caster but I'm not seeing a lot of plates available that have adjustable or even a static gain to caster angle.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by grippgoat

So uh... what's your go-to option for fixing the chassis threads that the bolts at the front of the rear subframe go up into? >.>

One side is beyond a thread chaser (I tried, and I made it worse). Quite possibly beyond a tap at this point, too. Other side might be re-tappable and I have one on the way to try.

I necro'd the thread about it, but figured I'd ask here to hopefully get some advice from a professional shop.

I'm always so nervous about this that I'm so mega-careful and thankfully have never had it happen to me.

You could always get a new rear subframe.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by RotARy15

Just upgraded from a 2020 BRZ with Perf Pack to a 2025 tS. I bought some Raceseng CasCam plates a long time ago for the Gen1 Sachs dampers but never installed them and now I'm curious if there is any chance of using these on the new car.

With Raceseng out of business, I assume I can't find new bearings if the shaft diameter or perch changed.

ETA: What would be the recommended part for front camber on a dual purpose car? 2-3 degrees seems like a reasonable dual purpose setting. I've heard that people like adding caster but I'm not seeing a lot of plates available that have adjustable or even a static gain to caster angle.

Sticking with stock dampers?

- Andrew

[RotARy15]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Sticking with stock dampers?

- Andrew

Yeah, that is the plan for at least a while. Not sure if I'm getting old or just trying to justify the tS badge by keeping the parts I paid for.

I also have SPC rear arms that I bought at the same time as the Raceseng plates. Those appear to be a direct fit and are mostly just going to ensure I can equalize the rear camber at 1.5.

Although I am open to suggestions on alignment settings as well. I can tolerate a moderate level of tire wear on the street. So I was aiming for 2.5/1.5 camber and a touch of toe-in all around. I'm always heavy and late on the brakes...

I figured I need to stick with plates since I kept my Apex ARC8s and I remember the RS4s getting pretty close to the lower perch. No idea what the new setup looks like yet.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by RotARy15

Yeah, that is the plan for at least a while. Not sure if I'm getting old or just trying to justify the tS badge by keeping the parts I paid for.

I also have SPC rear arms that I bought at the same time as the Raceseng plates. Those appear to be a direct fit and are mostly just going to ensure I can equalize the rear camber at 1.5.

Although I am open to suggestions on alignment settings as well. I can tolerate a moderate level of tire wear on the street. So I was aiming for 2.5/1.5 camber and a touch of toe-in all around. I'm always heavy and late on the brakes...

I figured I need to stick with plates since I kept my Apex ARC8s and I remember the RS4s getting pretty close to the lower perch. No idea what the new setup looks like yet.

The Raceseng plates are/were great, but not a good fit on OEM dampers in my opinion since they ate up some travel.

An option that's getting more popular these days is the Pedders front mounts, which are a non-adjustable OEM type rubber mount that's offset for a little camber and caster. You won't get anywhere near what you'd get with a all-metal adjustable camber plate, but it's easy and reliable. Maybe -2 with the "OEM crash bolt" or thereabouts.

- Andrew

[2.2Lude]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

The Raceseng plates are/were great, but not a good fit on OEM dampers in my opinion since they ate up some travel.

An option that's getting more popular these days is the Pedders front mounts, which are a non-adjustable OEM type rubber mount that's offset for a little camber and caster. You won't get anywhere near what you'd get with a all-metal adjustable camber plate, but it's easy and reliable. Maybe -2 with the "OEM crash bolt" or thereabouts.

- Andrew

+1 on the Pedders top Hats.

The additional caster gain was really noticeable.

I'm running them with PP Sachs, TRD Springs, SPC 14mm bottom bolt, and 14mm OEM bolt moved to the upper position.

Currently sitting at -6.0FL/-6.5RF caster and -2.9 camber with the suspension being the limtting factor. Ridding on 17x9 +35 ARC8's with 225/45 RT615k+'s for reference.

[RotARy15]

So it seems like if I want more than -2 degrees of camber and an increase in caster, my only quality option is Vorshlag. Much more expensive than Pedders.

I sent an email to Vorshlag to confirm, but based on their dropdown options it looks like the Hitachi dampers have the same dimensions as the regular dampers...?

[Tokay444]

I recently replaced my front lower control arms and hardware with new oem units. The front vertical bushing’s inner sleeve seems to have a lot of slop around the stud that screws into the body. Does anyone make anything to fill this gap?

[Ohio Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

The front vertical bushing’s inner sleeve seems to have a lot of slop around the stud that screws into the body.

Do you mean in the rubber? Or in the metal portion?
If the rubber, that's there for compliance. You can try filling it in with 3M Window Weld (fairly popular in BMW circles to fill in bushings) or get aftermarket bushings (I have the Whitelines, haven't noticed much of a difference).
If you are talking about the metal sleeve that stud goes into, I don't think it matters as it gets clamped and shouldn't move. Maybe it's for minor caster adjustment.

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by Ohio Enthusiast

Do you mean in the rubber? Or in the metal portion?
If the rubber, that's there for compliance. You can try filling it in with 3M Window Weld (fairly popular in BMW circles to fill in bushings) or get aftermarket bushings (I have the Whitelines, haven't noticed much of a difference).
If you are talking about the metal sleeve that stud goes into, I don't think it matters as it gets clamped and shouldn't move. Maybe it's for minor caster adjustment.

The inner sleeve has a lot of slop around the stud.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

The inner sleeve has a lot of slop around the stud.

What's the clearance? Shimstock?

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

What's the clearance? Shimstock?

Lol. Vast. More like bar stock. I take it you’ve never actually had the arms off.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

Lol. Vast. More like bar stock. I take it you’ve never actually had the arms off.

I'll shim the piss out of a clearance bore. Nothing wrong with stacking material. What are the actual dimensions?

[Tokay444]

I guess the original question was too difficult. I’ll make my own. Thanks anyway.