projekt zeal86 (build thread)

[zeal86]

The following pics are of the progress I'm making with the second FR-S' engine bay.

Everything is coming together nicely. I will post pics of the before and after of this FR-S' engine bay in the near future.

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I separated and polished both upper and lower radiator supports. I painyed the polished lower with metal cast











Polished OEM fuel rails and stripped, polished, and painted Velox fuel rail covers.









Various brackets. Sprayed with a chrome paint then with metal cast. Anodized effect is not as good compared to when polished.









Polished and painted horn...it's the little details that make the big differences.



I polished Throttle body to 1500 grit. I still need to buff with brown and white bars then finish with Mother's metal polish.









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[zeal86]

Stripped, polished, and cleared OEM strut tower braces.



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[zeal86]

Finished polishing the throttle body. I'll post pics of the throttle body attached to my 2nd hand 2017 red intake manifold once I clean the manifold up. I'll be using anodized red washers and nicer hardware from ZSPEC design to attach the two.



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[zeal86]

I dont have the before pic but I cleaned up and lightly polished the exposed aluminum on this second hand '17 red aluminum intake manifold.





UPDATE: Throttle Body, Rails, and ZSPEC Hardware







I also received for my MAIN build an AimGain LT-F sport spoiler.

Thinks are moving along...again...lol






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[zeal86]

Change of Plans

I decided to change the color of the rs1 after all. I'm presently working on cleaning, polishing, and painting parts of the engine. It will be completed soon but will stay out until paint is completed. I plan on tackling the paint myself...at least the engine bay, door jambs, and trunk jambs but we'll see...

I'm looking to do Toyota Super White 040 paint code...or just 37J with a slightly different theme and livery.


Things I've been up to...

I've rewrapped the engine harness with 3M electrical tape as well as other wiring harnesses.. More to go but I'm happy with my progress so far.

I'll likely opt for the Exedy Stage 2 clutch... should happen sooner than later. I've been doing some reading up on lightweight flywheels (FW)... I think I'll stay away from adding a lightweight FW and just go with a Exedy OEM FW. New OEM Denso plugs installed...new PCV, red intake manifold, polished throttle body being installed soon.

More to come...stay tuned!






Still more to do here...









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[zeal86]

I am still progressing...can't wait to finish my engine up so I can post some before and after pics.

Goal is to have both FR-S' ready for paint and/or wraps at about the same time. Hope to be showing again in the spring of 2025.

Going in Soon:

>> Red Aluminum Intake Manifold
>> Exedy Single Sports S-Metal Clutch Kit
>> Exedy Single Sports Series Racing
Flywheel
>> Cusco Reinforced Clutch Fork & Pivot
>> Cusco Air/Oil Separator
>> Throwout and Pilot Bearings with Clips
>> New Manifold Gaskets
>> Verus Rear Cam Cover
>> BLTZ Oil Cap
>> BLTZS US Power Air Filter



Going In After Engine Bay is Painted:

>> BLTZ Oil Cooler Kit
>> BLTZ Type ZS Aluminum Radiator
>> BLTZ Radiator Cap
>> BLTZ Radiator Hose Kit (Red)
>> BLTZ Strut Bar
>> KTS Aluminum Radiator Reservoir Tank
>> Fresh OEM Plugs Already Installed

I also made this Bell Housing Cover...



I made another design that worked well but the pictured design is simpler. It is basically the Verus design. I looked at pictures then I made two...one for each zn6. I just need to paint them.



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[zeal86]

I've been working on polishing my alternator...I'll get it blinging soon...

In progress...







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[zeal86]

Progress Made...













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[new2subaru]

What tools are you using/grits/etc? Those are some small areas to be polishing!

[zeal86]

Originally Posted by new2subaru

What tools are you using/grits/etc? Those are some small areas to be polishing!

Sorry for the late response...I must have missed the notification.

I used an 80 grit nylon wheel to clean it up and knock off the heavier texture...then 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1500. I used a DA where I could from 320 to 600 and finished up the tighter spots by hand. I used abrasive buffing wheels on my rotary tool up to 800 for the nooks and crannies. Took it to 1500 from 800 by hand only.

I didn't want little chunks of the polishing bars making their way into the alternator openings so my final polish was ONLY with Mother's metal polish. I went over each section 4 times...3 with felt wheels and one with a loose cotton wheel. I only used large buffing wheels on the center strip area that I ended up painting red. I used the white and red bars from my Harbor Freight polishing kits. It was easy to get to and the surface was uniform. I covered the alternator openings with blue tape.

The paint is Metal Cast Anodized Red from Dupli-Color...I sprayed it directly over polished metal. During this process, I used 91% alcohol to clean the strip in preparation for paint.

That about covers the process for the alternator. For most other less irregular surfaces...I use buffing bars after sanding then finish with a metal polish.


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[zeal86]

Finally getting around to posting pics of my polished then painted OEM crank pulley.

I took down the texture in the center of the pulley. I used red Dupli-Color metal cast paint.





I will be painting the engine with Seymour Alumi-Blast soon.

www.instagram.com/zeal.eightsix

[zeal86]

I recently built three rolling tables...two 8 footers and a 4 footer. My area got hit hard with constant and heavy rain a 3 weeks ago resulting in my shop flooding a bit.

Anyway, I needed things off the ground and also wanted to have my parts more organized so I built the tables.

About to get back to doing actual car stuff not that my shop is back in order.







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[zeal86]

I picked up an HKS Legamax Premium exhaust for my monogram so I'll be selling my Ark Grip exhaust. So if anyone is interested in my Ark Grip it will be for sale.

I'm making the switch for no other reason than I want my power delivery system to be exclusively HKS products. Also, I'm not going to install it on my RS1 because I am making that one all BLTZ power delivery parts.

The Ark Grip has beautiful welds and sounds really nice...good balance of sound, performance, and looks. Mine only has about 600 miles on it...not 6000 but 600 (no typo). My Monogram has been sitting for too long since it is a third car and show car so my miles are ridiculously low. I'm almost done neglecting it though... lol...just trying to catch my RS1 up to it.

This exhaust still goes for $1,799 with burnt tips. Mine does not have burnt tips. Ark's website is currently selling an open box clearance with cosmetic imperfections for $1,199.

I am asking $1,100 for my mint Ark Grip and I'd drive up to 4 hours to meet someone for pick up. I live in Texas.

Anyway, if you are interested message me..









Here is a link to a high quality video unboxing of an Ark Performance Grip exhaust.

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[zeal86]

I still have to do the topside but I was able to finish prepping the bottom side for primer and paint. I'm going to use Seymour etcher primer and Alumi-Blast.

[Edit] I'm going to use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel primer, Aluminum paint, and Gloss Clear. Alumi-Blast is not fuel resistant...plus the Dupli-Color products can withstand greater heat.

I'm also going to prep and paint the oil pan.







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