Help With Brake Job Shopping List

[Spuds]

At the risk of sounding like a total newb, I'd like a second+ set of eyes on my brake shopping list. I've got a '13 FRS and other than fluid the entire brake system is the original equipment, plus an MC brace. Been using regular dot4 until now. What the car NEEDS is bleeding the brakes, but if I'm going to put time into that I want to just do the rest of it at the same time.

I use the FRS for autocross on 200tw once or twice a month, and occasionally drive it around town in good weather or when my other car is not available. Looking to do HDPE at some point in the future, but I can swap pads if I need to when I get to that point. Looking to try an upgrade from OEM stuff. Alternatives, anecdotes, additions, or subtractions are appreciated.

Shopping List:

Fluid: ~1L of Motul RBF600 - because it's not expensive and better than what I've been using

Pads: Ferodo DS2500 front and rear - these were recommended by someone much faster than I at my last event, but $$$. Willing to spend what I need to, but if there's a better pad for my use for less money I'll consider it.

Rotors: OEM/Subaru rotors front and rear - do these NEED to be replaced, probably not. But it's been 10 years and if I'm spending $400 on pads I might as well get new rotors to pair them with? Is this silly?

Lines: new OEM/Subaru rubber brake lines - same situation as rotors, current lines look fine. Was recommended to stay away from SS lines because of reliability issues but I figure new oem lines will last another 10 years with no headaches at least.

Anything I'm missing or should be including?

My mantra for the next 48 hours. "I don't need a BBK. I DON'T need a BBK. I don't NEED a BBK?"

[soundman98]

overall agreed on what you've got so far.

i think the biggest question in regards to the pads is, are the oem pads limiting your current track experience, or do you anticipate them to in the future?

i don't really see a reason to change the pads to something more extreme unless you're experiencing issues during those few track sessions. it will definitely affect the street, dusting, and characteristics.

if you're still looking for a pad alternative, i would suggest looking through the pads at counter space garage. they support the forum here, and also are likely to chime in on a better specific formulation they offer that would suit street driving with some track use.

if you do decide to go bbk, go with the AP Racing front rotor kit. the brake bias is maintained, and i believe the pads are parts-store standard stuff, so still easily available to try many different compounds if desired.

rotors, i would inspect the current rotors-- if they're close to half their life, it's worth changing them. otherwise, if they've still got a lot of life left, no real reason to. but +1 on replacing with oem-spec rotors. slotted/drilled really offer no advantage, and any of the other boutique brands really just have higher pricing to justify the name.


i did my fluid at the recommended 30k interval. other than going from dark-colored to nearly clear, there was no feeling difference.

i didn't change pads/rotors because i'm curious to see how far i can go on the stocks

[NoHaveMSG]

If the rotors look fine I would leave them. Centric blanks are fine, I don’t think I would bother buying OEM. Centric is probably who makes them anyway.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by soundman98

overall agreed on what you've got so far.

i think the biggest question in regards to the pads is, are the oem pads limiting your current track experience, or do you anticipate them to in the future?

i don't really see a reason to change the pads to something more extreme unless you're experiencing issues during those few track sessions. it will definitely affect the street, dusting, and characteristics.

if you're still looking for a pad alternative, i would suggest looking through the pads at counter space garage. they support the forum here, and also are likely to chime in on a better specific formulation they offer that would suit street driving with some track use.

if you do decide to go bbk, go with the AP Racing front rotor kit. the brake bias is maintained, and i believe the pads are parts-store standard stuff, so still easily available to try many different compounds if desired.

rotors, i would inspect the current rotors-- if they're close to half their life, it's worth changing them. otherwise, if they've still got a lot of life left, no real reason to. but +1 on replacing with oem-spec rotors. slotted/drilled really offer no advantage, and any of the other boutique brands really just have higher pricing to justify the name.


i did my fluid at the recommended 30k interval. other than going from dark-colored to nearly clear, there was no feeling difference.

i didn't change pads/rotors because i'm curious to see how far i can go on the stocks

Pads: I'm looking to experiment with more performance-oriented pads and see how they are. I really don't know if the stock pads are limiting anything because I haven't tried anything else on this car. Maybe I'll hate them, maybe I'll wonder why I didn't upgrade years ago. CSG Spec pads are quite a bit more expensive than the Ferodos though, and I haven't found a good comparison between the two to explain that difference.

AP Racing: Yep, that's the kit I definitely don't need...

Rotors: Getting the car up today to check rotors, I tried measuring with the wheels on and that said 24.3mm which would be pretty odd considering they came as 24mm. But they look like they are developing some grooves on them so idk.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

If the rotors look fine I would leave them. Centric blanks are fine, I don’t think I would bother buying OEM. Centric is probably who makes them anyway.

It seems I get OEM rotors for less than Centric Premiums though. It's really strange lol.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Spuds

It seems I get OEM rotors for less than Centric Premiums though. It's really strange lol.

Even the rears? For me, front rotors from dealer were reasonable. Rears were a joke. Even the parts guy was shocked.


Don't do a BBK unless you're looking for ways to use up any free time you have now.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Even the rears? For me, ront rotors from dealer were reasonable. Rears were a joke. Even the parts guy was shocked.


Don't do a BBK unless you're looking for ways to use up any free time you have now.

I think the rears are a bit more expensive than the Centric replacement, but not much.
From the same site:

Rear, $63
https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...6700aj010.html

Front, $64
https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...6300sa001.html

Plus shipping of course.

Edit, now I'm looking closer, I think Centric might be a few bucks cheaper at each corner.

[strat61caster]

Lube on hand in case the slide pins are not moving freely. MD winter might necessitate new slide pin and piston boots but the ones in my ‘13 are still doing their job. Sandpaper to clean up any buildup on the caliper clips.

I really like my ds2500 but am contemplating trying trd pads for Street/autox because it’s like <$200 for a full set. I have overcooked Street only pads before.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Spuds

I think the rears are a bit more expensive than the Centric replacement, but not much.
From the same site:

Rear, $63
https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...6700aj010.html

Front, $64
https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...6300sa001.html

Plus shipping of course.

Edit, now I'm looking closer, I think Centric might be a few bucks cheaper at each corner.

I just looked at my receipt. Fronts were $73/ea Front pad kit was $107, and rear kit was $86.

[blsfrs]

If you are going to do HPDE on 200tw tires, you might want to consider a more dedicated track pad for those events.

I run HPDE 2 at Summit Point on 200tw tires. I use Carbotech xp 10 on Ebay rotors.

You mentioned hearing about problems with SS braided lines. Do you have any specific information?

[autoracer86]

Toyota service manual calls for new rubber bushings all around with each pad change. I picked them all up myself along with the fancy Toyota grease when I did my brake job.

Let me know if you need the part numbers I can find my invoice for you when I get home.

[Sapphireho]

Ok, first of all, there is quite a difference between doing a fluid change vs. Full brake job.

Do your brakes need changing?

I like the DS2500. If you go that route, sounds like they would be plenty good for the level you are at.

For me, if I was doing full brake job I would have rotors turned or replaced.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

If you are going to do HPDE on 200tw tires, you might want to consider a more dedicated track pad for those events.

I run HPDE 2 at Summit Point on 200tw tires. I use Carbotech xp 10 on Ebay rotors.

You mentioned hearing about problems with SS braided lines. Do you have any specific information?

Yeah, I'm not opposed to switching out pads for a track event, but that's definitely a 2024/2025 problem.

A few folks left anecdotal comments early in my build thread when I was thinking about SS lines, along with other posts I've seen around the forum. I have no personal experience with SS lines.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

Toyota service manual calls for new rubber bushings all around with each pad change. I picked them all up myself along with the fancy Toyota grease when I did my brake job.

Let me know if you need the part numbers I can find my invoice for you when I get home.

That's interesting, I have never heard of that. All the bushings I can see are still in good shape though so I think I'll be fine for now. Been slowly going around with poly bushings anyway.