Why 0° Camber?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Desertnate

There are so many variables in play, I don't know if you could blame tramlining on just the alignment of the car. From what I've experienced, tire tread, tire width, and even the way the groves/ruts are formed can play a huge part.

Not long after I bought this car I was on a roadrip in it with my wife, somewhere near Kansas City I think... Regardless of the location, it was on long stretch of fairly new concrete interstate with the groves cut in the direction of travel. The problem was the groves were not cut in a uniform manner. One moment I'd be sailing along just fine, the next the car was squirming and tramlining all over the place and just as suddenly it would stop when I drove onto the next segment. In a totally different incident with a different car I remember driving to a tire shop on one set of tires with no problems. Driving the same road on the way home I got wiggles from tramlining. The only variable which changed was the tires.

I've driven my car on the same setup, same roads, with different alignments and it makes a noticeable difference to me

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by mr.whiskers

Yea cause your first season of autox your became the best driver ever and never spun out

You are speaking from your own bubble. I bet a large portion of these cars will never see a track or an autocross course. Is it outrageous that they are being engineering with street driving in mind? I don't think so. You want some negative camber? Its super cheap and easy to get some crash bolts and there you go..

Is negative camber better for performance driving? Yes. Did I learn to drive with it after spinning out? Yes. Is 1.5 degree camber noticeable compared to 0 degree? Absolutely. Is 0 camber safer for street driving for an average driver who never done any performance driving? I am pretty sure thats a yes too

Thats all I am saying.

My first HPDE in Miata I still followed the recommended track alignment from 949Racing. And the cornering speeds are dramatically higher. I think it was -3.5 0 Toe front, -3 1/16" total toe in rear.

Could also be that I had plenty of track experience on 2 wheels before I ever did a track day in a car. Big difference hitting the braking zone at 130 vs 91-92.

[RToyo86]

I noticed more of a difference playing with front toe than making camber adjustments in terms of everyday street driving.

[BioRebel]

Any recommendations on what my alignment should be for a dual-duty car with OEM parts? I'm gonna install the top crash bolts this weekend and want to get it to an alignment shop after.

[Pat]

As much camber as you can get and zero toe. Simple.

[BioRebel]

Originally Posted by Pat

As much camber as you can get and zero toe. Simple.

I'm guessing this is for the fronts, what about rears? Max camber and a dash of toe-in?

[Tokay444]

Less camber in the rear. It still gains negative camber under compression.

[Lelandjt]

Originally Posted by BioRebel

Any recommendations on what my alignment should be for a dual-duty car with OEM parts? I'm gonna install the top crash bolts this weekend and want to get it to an alignment shop after.

I think crash bolts only get you .9° camber max. Do dealers usually check allignment when prepping a new car? I was gonna ask mine to install the crash bolts and max the camber.

[RToyo86]

Buy an SPC lower bolt and use the lower bolt up top as the crash bolt. Net roughly -2°

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by BioRebel

I'm guessing this is for the fronts, what about rears? Max camber and a dash of toe-in?

Around half a degree or less camber. 1/8"-1/16" total toe in out back.

[BioRebel]

Originally Posted by Lelandjt

I think crash bolts only get you .9° camber max. Do dealers usually check allignment when prepping a new car? I was gonna ask mine to install the crash bolts and max the camber.

ugh, I bought the SPC ones but chickened out of putting them in. Now that I'm doing my research again, I'm feeling a bit better about it. I'm going to get it aligned after the install, so I'll ask for 2* up front to start.

[mr.whiskers]

Originally Posted by Lelandjt

I think crash bolts only get you .9° camber max. Do dealers usually check allignment when prepping a new car? I was gonna ask mine to install the crash bolts and max the camber.

I bought the bolts from dealer but they said they wouldn't change the alignment to anything besides stock. So I took it to another shop and with just smaller OEM bolts up top I got like 1.5 degrees

[BioRebel]

Finally got it aligned and took it to the track with -2* up front and WOW that made a big difference. Mid-corner understeer is a thing of the past.

[ruturaj001]

On original topic, I think if car comes with 0 or -1.5 degree camber isn't big issue. I wish they would have camber adjustment from factory, even if it's +-0.5 degree.

I installed top and bottom camber bolts. Both are basically SPC bolts, top one just came in whiteline bag. I was able to get -2.4 degree camber in front. I found a local shop that does a great alignment job.