11-23-2022, 07:20 PM | #1471 | |
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Yes you can bypass the pump relay wiring like the original kit was sent. You will need to connect the Green and Red wire as a loop to each other. The Black and Grey wire will need to be connected to each other in the same manor. This will engage the pump to the ON position anytime the key is turned to the ON position. |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to captain awesome For This Useful Post: | funkjaw (11-23-2022), RedReplicant (11-23-2022) |
11-23-2022, 07:26 PM | #1472 | |
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Sorry, i don't work much with electricity |
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The Following User Says Thank You to moosefro For This Useful Post: | funkjaw (11-23-2022) |
11-23-2022, 07:33 PM | #1473 | |
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Yep. I don't know what would be the best temp solution on how to do that without making it difficult to revert back to the relay other than making your own Red loop to swap out of the relay connector. |
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11-23-2022, 09:43 PM | #1474 |
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Thank you so much! Car is finally running. You're a legend
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11-23-2022, 09:46 PM | #1475 |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to captain awesome For This Useful Post: | funkjaw (11-23-2022), Irace86.2.0 (11-23-2022) |
11-23-2022, 09:52 PM | #1476 | |
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Ordered on 06Jul. Arrived 22oct. I've only had one weekend to work on it before today and it was missing some parts so i couldn't test the relay in october. Yes, Just the relay piece. |
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11-23-2022, 09:57 PM | #1477 | |
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Interesting. That shows there may be adapter boards that aren't capable of triggering the relay still being released. |
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11-23-2022, 10:06 PM | #1478 | |
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There is a silk screened version number that includes the adapter board date and there is also a version number (if it isn't v1) on the same side. The dirty fix to make the relay work is to solder in a jumper wire on the board... it is my understanding that there are at least 3 versions of this board floating around.
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Last edited by RedReplicant; 11-24-2022 at 12:02 AM. |
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11-24-2022, 01:04 AM | #1479 | |
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I'm not soldering anything this expensive myself and captain's fix will be enough to get me home so i'll just wait for whatever kpower's official solution will be |
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11-26-2022, 12:55 AM | #1480 |
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Hey guys
I've started the build for my k24 BRZ In the process of putting the motor in. Ive gone through all 100pages of this thread so far and there's some really good detail about the build. I was just wondering from the guys who have done it and lived with it for a while if there's a list of things to look out for/upgrade/fix from the kit. I'm trying to build a nice street car which will see the track 6-10 times a year. Bit of background.... my stock FA20 ended up with a hole in it so I decided to go with this kit. Ordered in March 2022. Arrived in Sept 2022. So far what I plan on doing is 1. Secondary heater line to thermostat. That seems like it's had positive results 2. I'll get the stock DS shortened, as it seems like it helps the most with the vibes Any other things I should be worried about when doing the install? I was owed some parts Kpower forgot so I bought the new f/p relay at the same time. I'm gonna wait for an official fix before I tinker with that. I did read issues about the sensor grounds in the loom, has more people experienced this? Should this be on my fix list? Thanks for your guys help and appreciate thr patience with a newbie |
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11-26-2022, 08:33 AM | #1481 | |
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As much as I love the reduced vibration of the 2 piece driveshaft I think you should try the 1 piece first and see what you think. It's easy to swap out if you aren't a fan but could save some money as everyone's opinion on acceptable NVH can vary quite a bit. I haven't done the added ground wires but will at some point. I've driven roughly 14k miles on the swap without the fix so it will work just fine without it set up right. At this point I imagine that the dipstick hole in the oil pan has been fixed but worth checking before you bolt it in for good. Flex pipe in your exhaust system is going to be needed. That's about all I can think of at the moment. |
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11-26-2022, 02:16 PM | #1482 | |
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1. Beat the shit out of your trans tunnel for the headers and trans bracket. I have slight rubbing issues on both points under left hand turns even though I dented them in more than was shown in the Kpower instructions. 2. I have never had my A/C working 100% - more on this in my next post. 3. I have the sensor ground issue and have yet to fix it. It's not really a hinderance to me because my car is 90% a street car and is not used in hardcore track days where that stuff might matter. Buuuut personally had I known about the fix before I did the swap I probably would have fixed it before putting everything in. |
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11-26-2022, 02:29 PM | #1483 |
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A/C UPDATE
AC update: Some time ago I posted how I found the high side hose leaking so Kpower sent me a new high side hose to replace it. The new hose worked well for about 3 weeks or so but eventually started leaking in the same exact spot as the old one. I got tired of dealing with it so I just left it and would top off the AC as needed. Well today that hose blew apart at one of the crimps:
At this point I'm just gonna take the hose to an AC shop here in Austin and pay to have one made; as I don't trust the quality control of the A/C lines that Kpower makes for this kit. Will update once I get the 3rd new line in. |
11-26-2022, 02:52 PM | #1484 |
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Are they filling your system too? Mine hasn’t been as cold as I would like, but it works.
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My Build | K24 Turbo Swap | *K24T BRZ SOLD*
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