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Old 11-07-2022, 12:41 PM   #43
RedReplicant
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Well, yesterday I was setting up to do a string alignment and fluid flush.

Popped the fill plug on the transmission and found this beautiful sculpture




RIP Jack's Transmissions box.

After complaining a bit I started pulling the transmission and got as far as just having the bell housing bolts left in a couple of hours. Getting the transmission out and back in will probably be a gigantic pain, we will see.

I also went to look at a used transmission last night about ten minutes from the house, which turned out to not go into 6th gear when I was testing it in the seller's garage so now I'm in a bit of a time crunch. NASA SoCal was nice enough to credit me, but I'm still going to attempt to make it if I can find a transmission today or tomorrow.

Have I mentioned that I hate cars? money fly away emojii here
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Old 11-07-2022, 04:34 PM   #44
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Away we go
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Old 11-08-2022, 05:08 PM   #45
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FWIW, we have Blubs old box FS. Shorter 6th.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...48176463932870
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Old 11-08-2022, 05:56 PM   #46
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FWIW, we have Blubs old box FS. Shorter 6th.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...48176463932870
I'd buy that thing from you if there were local tracks that used much of 5th or any of 6th.

I'm pretty sad to see you getting rid of Vegas
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Old 11-08-2022, 08:10 PM   #47
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I'd buy that thing from you if there were local tracks that used much of 5th or any of 6th.

I'm pretty sad to see you getting rid of Vegas
Blub ran a 4.77 gear so we used 5th all the time. If you're barely using 4th, you'd probably be faster with a shorter final drive.

Vegas, yeah I just don't have the urge to race I once did. Sorta ticked off all the bucket list wins, records, championships and whatnot. We'll still play with Miatas of course.
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Old 11-11-2022, 01:46 PM   #48
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I hear you, at least Kaiko is the right color now, haha. Let me make sure the car wants to stay together before I sink even more money into it.

Yanked the Sachs clutch out of the car before it could grenade on me like it has for others, I put an Exedy OEM in to try and reduce some of the shock load on the transmission.




Pulled the rear SPL arms out in favor of used arms off a 2022 GR (I bought lowers from RockAuto). This will buy me back points.




On another note, I can say that a 265/35/18 Maxxis RC1 on a 18x9.5 fits into the NASA 266mm template... barely. A 9.5 doesn't optimize it, but there isn't another 18" Maxxis that will work.



Transmission went right on first attempt at stabbing it, blew me away, jacked up the front of the motor with a piece of wood under the pan and loosened off the motor mount bolts. Usually I have to fight with them a bit.



Some plug paranoia



String aligned the car to 0 toe and now I'm loading up the trailer for Chuckwalla. I hate being rushed but here we are.

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Old 11-11-2022, 07:33 PM   #49
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Is there an inherent camber gain with the 22+ arms?
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Old 11-12-2022, 03:18 PM   #50
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Is there an inherent camber gain with the 22+ arms?
The part number is the same for the traction arms and the toe arms, but the LCA is a different part number. I haven’t looked into it too much but I was kind of wondering what the difference is.

I bought the 2022 toe/traction arms off a crashed car.

Car seems to be happy, 1:58:4 at Chuckwalla CCW so far, which is enough to be leading TT5 and take the Arizona region record. 2860 off the track with 2800 min weight, 196avg with 203 max allowed, and a Nankang AR1.

Definitely a lot of time on the table in sucking less at driving, the ST5 Cali E36 Palomar Racing fast dude is poking into the 55s.
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Old 11-13-2022, 11:01 PM   #51
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Picked up the TT5 win both days and the NASA AZ TT5 lap record, not sure what the SoCal TT5 record is or if they even pay attention to them. Seems like SoCal is super focused on w2w, which is pretty cool. I think there were 8 or something in class.

I really wanted to try and match Sonny's 949/Blub 1:57:7 but I couldn't get it done, (much) more seat time required.

1:58:17 is as far as I managed to get.



All-in-all, I am really happy with how the car worked balance wise. I'd been pretty frustrated with the entire car up until now but I think I am finally starting to get it to where I want to be. Electric power steering is definitely not fixed, it was cutting out for me all over the place, especially in the bowl.

Also got to meet Ed May of 949 on Sunday, so that was pretty cool.
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Old 11-14-2022, 12:44 PM   #52
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Car is looking far more stable and your confidence in the car is increasing. What are you using for the eps control?
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Old 11-14-2022, 01:47 PM   #53
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Car is looking far more stable and your confidence in the car is increasing. What are you using for the eps control?
Yeah, night and day in terms of stability up until this event.

I'm using the stock EPS with functioning CAN integration, this definitely needs to be fixed so I'm going to try one of the aftermarket controller solutions.

Also, filling half a quart over fixed the oil pressure drops under braking. Data is for the lap from the video, 12v shown since one of the EPS controller guys wanted to see the data.

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Old 11-20-2022, 07:46 PM   #54
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Pulled apart the transmission today

Few interesting things going on inside that I noticed, but I am sure there is other stuff going on too:

Linear bearings for the shift rails



Carbon synchros



Gears on roller bearings



Hardened shift actuators? no idea what these are called



Billet shift forks



anyway, now we come to the main reason to build one of these transmissions -- 4th gear retaining circlip replaced with a machined collar



Coincidentally, the problem is that the 4th gear synchronizer hub came apart in the three spots that the synchro keys into it



Played around with it a bit and I realized the what probably happened is that the retaining collar developed play, rubbed against reverse gear, wore from thrust load, and allowed 4th gear to walk. When 4th gear walked down the synchronizer ring was also pulled away from the synchronizer hub and cut the engagement area down. Pop.





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Old 11-27-2022, 05:29 PM   #55
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I ended up buying a 74mm Bosch throttle body since it is worth a few whp up top on a K then the new rules for TT5 hit, including the latest one earlier this week.

The gasket from the KPower adapter to the throttle body looks terrible, so I'm going to make my own with some FelPro stuff once it shows up today.

Gasket oversized on TB side


Gasket only has 1mm of overlap on two of the bolt holes





Also bought the KPower fuel pump relay kit that was supposed to just plug in but after some time with a multimeter it appears that version 1 and version 2 of their Haltech to 86 chassis harness adapter boards do not have continuity from the chassis side fuel pump relay wire to any wire on the Haltech side.

Ain't nobody got time for that. Soldered in a jumper wire to give fuel pump relay control to Haltech instead of the car running the fuel pumps (I have a surge tank) full blast all the time.





Looks like the Verus LCA is the only non-eccentric adjustable LCA that has the option of a non-spherical bearing, so I'll be grabbing that for no-points rear camber.

I also ordered a set of Drag Cartel Drop in Cams, which are supposed to add something like 10-15whp across the entire rev range.

The idea is to have a full power tune on E85, a tune that closes the TB up top to make 202whp average, and a tune that closes the TB up top to make 207whp average. I am guessing the 207 avg might need E too.

Car makes 196whp avg as it sits now, so we will see how that works out, who knows what the dyno will say.
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Old 11-27-2022, 09:08 PM   #56
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I used the Verus RLCA with the poly bushings for awhile now. They’re a bit of a pain to adjust compared to the SPL stuff, but buying a poly rod end for those is also wayy more expensive. The Verus is the best bang for the buck.

Looking forward to your experience with tuning the DC Cams cause I’m highly looking at a set of those as well. But I need to get more going on mine first haha
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