KPower Industries K24 swap

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Would there be a problem to use the K24Z3 for this swap? cursory look at the engine mount locations look similar to K24A2 but Kpower website doesn't mention this engine block. Reason is just for a cheap turbo build since I figured combined exhaust manifold wasn't going to be a factor and I can just use the factory head.

For their miata kswap they say that the K24Z3 can just drop into the K24A2 swap but not sure if K86 would be similar.

Engine mounts to block will be different and need to be modified to fit. I saw someone in the Facebook group did this for one of his customers so you may be able to reach out and see what all it took to work.

[RedReplicant]

I talked to someone on the Facebook group who used a K24Z, they said they had to trim one of the mounts slightly but it wasn't a big deal. It is worth posting there about it.

K24Z with a super responsive vband inlet/outlet turbo sounds like the nicest setup ever.

edit: beaten

[RedReplicant]

Also, for what it is worth, it seems like the Bosch TB can be had for $100 less than KPower wants for it on Rockauto. PN is 0280750474
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...227140&jsn=723

*Note: NOT VERIFIED that it is the same yet, but ya kno, it matches the one TFWorks sells too.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Also, for what it is worth, it seems like the Bosch TB can be had for $100 less than KPower wants for it on Rockauto. PN is 0280750474
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...227140&jsn=723

*Note: NOT VERIFIED that it is the same yet, but ya kno, it matches the one TFWorks sells too.

I planned on doing this as well.

I got these two:
https://kpower.industries/products/d...e-body-adapter
https://kpower.industries/products/b...jumper-harness

Just need to get the actual throttle body. I'll probably just buy the rockauto version cuz it seems like it is identical just way cheaper than going thru Kpower.

I guess my biggest question is if I'll need to re-tune after installing the throttle body. My guy charges $500 per session so don't wanna re-tune if it isn't absolutely necessary. (I'll just ask my guy but most tuners would say to get it retuned I would imagine).

[captain awesome]

That part number is correct. I got my TB brand new on Ebay for under $64 shipped. The guy listed it wrong so I was worried the wrong part would show up, but it was legit.

Instead of getting the jumper harness I got a Bosch plug and pins to repin the Kpower harness. I think that was less than $20. Only costly item was the adapter from Kpower.


Also you'll need a different sized coupler which I got sized 76mm to 83mm. I think that translates 3" to 3.25" from my notes.

[RedReplicant]

Beautiful! Thank you for the heads up on the coupler too

[ML]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

@ML

Yeah I’ve seen that video and planned to do the same. I was wondering if the stock shifter with the Kpower kit would work. Also, why are you going with the hydro slave cylinder? You are doing the Collins clutches? What made you stick with their clutch kit and not something else, just curious? Tell me more.

Also, do you think modifying the existing driveshaft plus shipping both ways will be cheaper than selling the driveshaft and buying a new one?

That's what Oren did on his swap, and really seems like an easy setup to me, with only downside being I would have to take the trans off to service it yikes...Clutch that comes with the Collins adapter seems to be pretty good value for the default 500ft/lb one and I don't think I will need more than that, plus I feel like I heard they are made by clutch masters too. Not to mention I KNOW it will work with this k24/cd009 setup.



I live 45 minutes from the Drive Shaft Shop so shouldn't have to ship anything! I've heard 300$ range to modify a DS. (hopefully I'm over shooting that?)



Also I have 2 Grams 74mm throttle bodies sitting in my garage waiting on the bigger supercharger, but I really don't see a downside in running one with a NA setup, I just don't want to go back to the dyno until I have everything together.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ML

That's what Oren did on his swap, and really seems like an easy setup to me, with only downside being I would have to take the trans off to service it yikes...Clutch that comes with the Collins adapter seems to be pretty good value for the default 500ft/lb one and I don't think I will need more than that, plus I feel like I heard they are made by clutch masters too. Not to mention I KNOW it will work with this k24/cd009 setup.

I live 45 minutes from the Drive Shaft Shop so shouldn't have to ship anything! I've heard 300$ range to modify a DS. (hopefully I'm over shooting that?)

Also I have 2 Grams 74mm throttle bodies sitting in my garage waiting on the bigger supercharger, but I really don't see a downside in running one with a NA setup, I just don't want to go back to the dyno until I have everything together.

Doesn't the transmission have to come off with any type of slave cylinder?

I think 500ft/lbs is probably more than enough for me too. I just wanted to have something streetable and reliable, so I didn't know if the clutches were quality or not. At least the six puck clutch is sprung.

I like the Sikky mount. Seems clean enough. It says to add the mount bracket, but they don't show it. I'm assuming it is what is pictured below. It seems like they could have just used the factory bushing/mount, and then made a cross member that bolts into that. I wonder why they replaced the rubber, circular, OEM mount and integrated it into the crossmember, which then requires a separate mounting bracket to mount the crossmember to the transmission. The stock transmission mount uses a vibration-damper bolt pictured below. I wonder how much that is necessary when the stock mount was already rubber. Maybe there is a lot of vibration.

I understand the HR/370Z version of the CD009/CD #5 and up have the internal CSC, which often fails. I was thinking of just doing the 350Z/G35 CD009 to avoid the CSC, but I also know there are kits to swap to a clutch fork and aftermarket hydraulic slave cylinders like the one you are using. I'm still debating.

In Oren's video, he mentions the shifter linkage being too long, and the the U-joint is roughly where the shifter would need to be. I figured the Kpower kit already hard mounted the stock shifter, so all I would need to do is cut and weld some of the CD009's shifter linkage to extend or shorten it. The reverse is right/down on the CD009 vs left/up on the 86, but the plate for the reverse lockout is symmetrical, so I figured everything could just be rotated 180 degrees. I don't know if this would all work.

[ML]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Doesn't the transmission have to come off with any type of slave cylinder?

I think 500ft/lbs is probably more than enough for me too. I just wanted to have something streetable and reliable, so I didn't know if the clutches were quality or not. At least the six puck clutch is sprung.

I like the Sikky mount. Seems clean enough. It says to add the mount bracket, but they don't show it. I'm assuming it is what is pictured below. It seems like they could have just used the factory bushing/mount, and then made a cross member that bolts into that. I wonder why they replaced the rubber, circular, OEM mount and integrated it into the crossmember, which then requires a separate mounting bracket to mount the crossmember to the transmission. The stock transmission mount uses a vibration-damper bolt pictured below. I wonder how much that is necessary when the stock mount was already rubber. Maybe there is a lot of vibration.

I understand the HR/370Z version of the CD009/CD #5 and up have the internal CSC, which often fails. I was thinking of just doing the 350Z/G35 CD009 to avoid the CSC, but I also know there are kits to swap to a clutch fork and aftermarket hydraulic slave cylinders like the one you are using. I'm still debating.

In Oren's video, he mentions the shifter linkage being too long, and the the U-joint is roughly where the shifter would need to be. I figured the Kpower kit already hard mounted the stock shifter, so all I would need to do is cut and weld some of the CD009's shifter linkage to extend or shorten it. The reverse is right/down on the CD009 vs left/up on the 86, but the plate for the reverse lockout is symmetrical, so I figured everything could just be rotated 180 degrees. I don't know if this would all work.

Most slave cylinders for a fork setup are outside the bell housing.


I guess I was wrong, and Collins makes their own clutches, but Hey for less than 400$ basically I'll give it a go.


I think I'm going to give the TF works mount a shot over the Sikky since it was made for a BRZ k24 to CD009 where the Sikky is for an LS. Also they say "The CD009 is not a quiet transmission by any means, reason why Nissan integrated so many rubber dampers and even a large "damper bolt" in their design. We also use OEM Nissan damper bolts in our transmissions mount design to help with that."


https://www.tf-works.com/tf-works-fr...mission-mount/


I have never had a CSC, and want to try it out basically.


The shifter situation to me is basically yeah I could probably make soemthing work with the BRZ shifter but its the cheapest thing in this swap so just get something that was made to work well and move on. But It would be cool to see something fabricated to work here.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I understand the HR/370Z version of the CD009/CD #5 and up have the internal CSC, which often fails. I was thinking of just doing the 350Z/G35 CD009 to avoid the CSC, but I also know there are kits to swap to a clutch fork and aftermarket hydraulic slave cylinders like the one you are using. I'm still debating.
.

I had this CSC delete kit on my 370z. Worth every penny. I wouldn't in a million years keep the CSC it's basically a ticking timebomb.
https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-pe...-g37-g35s-q60/

[ML]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

I had this CSC delete kit on my 370z. Worth every penny. I wouldn't in a million years keep the CSC it's basically a ticking timebomb.
https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-pe...-g37-g35s-q60/

as in the stock CSC was a time bomb? I would have to imagine a Mcleod or Tilton CSC would be much better quality.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

I had this CSC delete kit on my 370z. Worth every penny. I wouldn't in a million years keep the CSC it's basically a ticking timebomb.
https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-pe...-g37-g35s-q60/

Originally Posted by ML

as in the stock CSC was a time bomb? I would have to imagine a Mcleod or Tilton CSC would be much better quality.

Apparently there is a flaw in the metal molding process that caused stress fractures, which ultimately led to leaking CSC and failure. I would replace it if I bought a late model unit. Aftermarket would be fine.

[Irace86.2.0]

So I went to upgrade the software and firmware, and after that the car just stayed on and wouldn't start. I imported the map settings, and it didn't start. I downgraded, and then it started. The NSP software was updated at the beginning, or so I thought. Sometimes it is hard to tell, but I checked, and it said I was on the latest. I upgraded and downgraded multiple times, and it never started, except after I downgraded, which was the same problem that happened to me a long time ago. Again, I didn't know if I needed to import setting or not, but I tried either way, and it never worked. The car eventually needed a jump, so the wife jumped the car, and I went to update the software, and it said there was a new update, so I don't know if the first update wasn't a full update, and the one I did is a stepping stone that unlocks other updates. Regardless, the software updated, and then I did the firmware update, and the car finally started, so now I am on 3.07.1 or whatever it is that I think is the latest and greatest. I can't really say what was the issue.

The fuel gauge didn't move, so I'll have to see if this update actually fixed the fuel gauge issues, which is why I was doing the upgrade in the first place.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ML

Most slave cylinders for a fork setup are outside the bell housing.


I guess I was wrong, and Collins makes their own clutches, but Hey for less than 400$ basically I'll give it a go.


I think I'm going to give the TF works mount a shot over the Sikky since it was made for a BRZ k24 to CD009 where the Sikky is for an LS. Also they say "The CD009 is not a quiet transmission by any means, reason why Nissan integrated so many rubber dampers and even a large "damper bolt" in their design. We also use OEM Nissan damper bolts in our transmissions mount design to help with that."


https://www.tf-works.com/tf-works-fr...mission-mount/


I have never had a CSC, and want to try it out basically.


The shifter situation to me is basically yeah I could probably make soemthing work with the BRZ shifter but its the cheapest thing in this swap so just get something that was made to work well and move on. But It would be cool to see something fabricated to work here.

I think the TF-works design is less elegant in execution and finish, but it would probably be better to have the stock rubber mount option, especially because you would have the option of swapping out the stock rubber mount for a polyurethane one in the future with any number of aftermarket replacements.

I'm assuming you will be pulling the engine for this install. I dropped and installed the stock transmission with the engine in place, and it was tight, even with the engine tilted back. I doubt the CD009 will clear with such a large flywheel. It just kind of sucks to have to pull the motor to service the transmission.