Radiator Fans - Technical Information

[UNREAL]

Originally Posted by VerusEric

Figured I'd follow up the oil cooling and the charge air cooling posts with a radiator fan primer. Most people overlook this fairly crucial system of the cooling system in exchange for space, but for cars that idle or are operated at slow speeds, fans that flow well are a necessity!







Synopsis: Radiator fans are a necessity for properly cooling vehicles during all conditions. They are a very simple component but are often overlooked and miss-understood. This post will go more in-depth with radiator fans; when/where they are beneficial, how they work in the overall cooling stack, common misconceptions, things to look out for, and more. In this post, we will be focusing on electric fans as that is what is typically used for sports cars and late model cars in general.



When are radiator fans helpful? This is dependent on vehicle and cooling stack thickness, but generally, electric radiator fans are only needed up to 20-30MPH road speed. What can influence this is grill opening, cooling stack thickness, outlet ducting, and the fan’s characteristics. After this speed, air speed and pressure is sufficient enough to out-flow an electric fan’s capabilities.



How do electric radiator fans operate? Electric radiator fans have a pressure vs. flow curve that governs its performance. This curve is dictated by the motor and the aerodynamics of the blades.



Any manufacturer that states a single flow rate without a pressure reading is trying to sell something. To take this a step further, stating the flow rate of a fan at zero static pressure is completely and utterly useless in understanding the fan’s true performance! A fan’s job is to pull air through something, this something will ultimately create a restriction or a pressure drop. A fan will always have to deal with a restriction. Below is numerical data of a SPAL fan showing what is called, in the cooling industry, a fan curve.







So what is the difference between slim fans and regular fans? Typically the aerodynamics of the blades is very similar if not the same, but the motors are much less powerful. Due to this less powerful motor, the fan cannot pull through high static pressure. Below is this illustrated for the same 12” fan, but one is a slim fan, and one is the high-performance variant. As can be seen, the low profile unit drops off under higher static pressure, significantly. The high-performance unit continues to pull reasonable amounts of airflow even after the low profile unit stalls, pretty impressive.







What is a typical static pressure? A typical radiator core has around 7-15 mm H2O of static pressure when the fans are pulling air through them depending on its thickness. A thicker radiator will inherently have a higher static pressure unless some trickery is done with fin heights and louver details. We’re going to assume standard cores, fin heights, and louver details though as very few core manufacturers have the ability to vary the fin geometry. What compounds this pressure drop is thick charge air coolers, which block airflow further.



So what does this pressure drop look like and how do I figure out how much airflow my fans can pull through my radiator? That is most certainly a difficult question to answer. We’ve created a graph, and while it is indicative of real-world behavior, it is a made up scenario for this specific case. Heat rejection, in general, is still a bit of a dark art to most, as there are a lot of factors most people do not consider. Below is a graph of what a 27mm Denso core (what we use in our radiator) would typically flow vs. a given static pressure, and a more standard used 56mm core.







There are some neat things we can learn from this curve.

1. Low profile fans pull dramatically less airflow through the radiator cores than a high-performance fan.
   
2. Looking at the 27mm core, a low profile fan would pull around 650 m3/hr of airflow while a high-performance fan would pull around 1100 m3/hr. That’s a significant difference in airflow and one that will most certainly make an impact on low vehicle speed cooling.
   
3. We can clearly see that the 27mm Denso core flows more airflow for a given static pressure. This makes sense, as the core is thinner. From past experience, we know the 27mm outperforms the 56mm core in heat rejection as well, which is pretty impressive given that it is under ½ the thickness.
   

Major Take-Aways:

• Fan ratings at 0 static pressure drop are useless for determining actual operating performance
  
• Low profile fans dramatically reduce cooling at low air speeds while reducing size significantly
  
• Fans are truly only beneficial at road speeds under 25-30MPH
  

As always, feel free to ask questions that are not fully answered.



Thanks for your interest and time,

Eric

High Eric it's still me

My SPAL fans are the same 30102029 fans mentioned here... I looked them up and found that each fan draws 14.5 Amps.

Now I'm almost sure that Mishimoto's shroud + wiring are the culprit of the low performance of the cooling system.

1- In a simple (for dummies) language would SPAL 30102029 perform better than the OEM or not? assuming I provide the needed Amperage and go back to oem shroud?

2- have you or anyone else fitted the mentioned Spal fans on oem shrouds?

3- do you still recommend the front duct?


Bear in mind that I have 0 issues while driving at Norma to highway speeds, the issue arises only at low, high traffic speeds and idling. And the heat climbs up an get stuck there, only goes down if I drive at highway speeds for a while.

Thank you for your patience and continued support.

Kind Regards

Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk

[grumpysnapper]

Originally Posted by UNREAL

High Eric it's still me

My SPAL fans are the same 30102029 fans mentioned here... I looked them up and found that each fan draws 14.5 Amps.

Now I'm almost sure that Mishimoto's shroud + wiring are the culprit of the low performance of the cooling system.

1- In a simple (for dummies) language would SPAL 30102029 perform better than the OEM or not? assuming I provide the needed Amperage and go back to oem shroud?

2- have you or anyone else fitted the mentioned Spal fans on oem shrouds?

3- do you still recommend the front duct?


Bear in mind that I have 0 issues while driving at Norma to highway speeds, the issue arises only at low, high traffic speeds and idling. And the heat climbs up an get stuck there, only goes down if I drive at highway speeds for a while.

If you are using the original Mishimoto wiring, the very first thing I would do is check that it has the correct polarity on its connections.
Very early on, before I changed to Spal, I fitted the Mishimoto kit, and had significant cooling issues... exactly like you.
Turned out one of the fans was wired incorrectly so was "blowing" rather than "sucking". The polarity on one of the connectors had been reveresed in production.
I believe this has happened to a couple of other people using the Mishimoto kit.

I have since changed to the biggest Spal units I could fit, using the orginal Mishimoto shroud BUT, modified with much bigger enlarged apertures for the larger fans. I use a shroud simply because my cooling issues are very high sustained revs at low road speeds. (the standard Mishimoto kit is adequate for slighly above normal usage, but not a lot more in my opinion).
I draw power/ground directly from the battery using heavy duty wiring and relays, amd simply use the old existing fan wiring to "trigger" the new relays.

[VerusEric]

Originally Posted by UNREAL

High Eric it's still me

My SPAL fans are the same 30102029 fans mentioned here... I looked them up and found that each fan draws 14.5 Amps.

Now I'm almost sure that Mishimoto's shroud + wiring are the culprit of the low performance of the cooling system.

1- In a simple (for dummies) language would SPAL 30102029 perform better than the OEM or not? assuming I provide the needed Amperage and go back to oem shroud?

2- have you or anyone else fitted the mentioned Spal fans on oem shrouds?

3- do you still recommend the front duct?


Bear in mind that I have 0 issues while driving at Norma to highway speeds, the issue arises only at low, high traffic speeds and idling. And the heat climbs up an get stuck there, only goes down if I drive at highway speeds for a while.

Thank you for your patience and continued support.

Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk

I'd check what grumpysnapper said.

1) No one knows, OE data is not out there for the general public.

2) Not that I know of.

3) Always.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by UNREAL

2- have you or anyone else fitted the mentioned Spal fans on oem shrouds?

I am running a Spal fan in place of the AC fan in the oem shroud. I'll have to do some digging to figure out the part number though, it was just a leftover fan from another project a couple years ago. I am still using the oem wiring. I have a k24 swap with the ac deleted, my oem fan comes on first around 190, and the spal comes on second at 200 I believe.

My car is a daily and I've put 4k miles or so on the setup without an issue. I was a bit worried about the fan drawing too much amperage but it seems to be doing fine.

[Scargod]

To revive this... I thought I'd share what I'm doing. This is my track car, the new Red 2022 that replaced Blue.
I have an oil cooler in the front. It's on the right, lower side of the radiator area. I have a snorkel for the CAI that comes halfway down on the left side. There's no purpose to fans when racing and moving. There's the rub: when moving. Sometimes I've had to sit in the pit line for five minutes or longer. It's not good to get caught not running and hold people up when it's time to go.
I've removed the right fan and I've cut away almost all of the fan shroud that restricts airflow. If need be, the one fan will come on.
I plan on posting pictures as I get it all back together.
This and the TSS Fab subframe and loosing most of the plastic at the bottom of the bumper fascia will net about a 10 pound loss and I've removed the AC which is good for approximately another 10 pounds. I think the headers and the completely adjustable suspension will help as well. I may get under 2,600 pounds, and that's with the CMS Performance Roll Bar installed.
TSS Fab rear subframe is on its way...