KPower Industries K24 swap

[Irace86.2.0]

Can anyone verify a 12v constant going to the coils in full accessories? I think I’m not getting anything like I mentioned above. I’m going to check the relays and fuses.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I was considering the RR3 cams based on a video 4Piston posted but maybe the RR4 is a better fit?



Are you running 91 or do you have 93 available?


What valves and guides?



What throttle body are you planning? I'm checking with Kpower to see if I would need to repin the fa20 plug or if there's more involved to switch to the Bosch 74mm.

I think the cam choice depends on your goals, mine is street registered but it is caged and will be used as a time trials and w2w car. I'd shoot 4P an email to see what they'd recommend for your use case, I might end up switching to the RR3 after I talk to them again. I've got time though, I intend on running a stock motor until next year for classing purposes.

I plan on running 91, we don't have 93 here. OEM guides, valves, and FA throttle body.


In other news, it appears there are different sized OEM pulleys for the K24. The 7PK1320 belt in the KPower document was too short for my JDM K24A RBB crank pulley without AC.

TFWorks mentions the following on their website:
7PK1300 - Fluidampr pulley
7PK1320 - 6.125" K pulley
7PK1335 - 6.5" K pulley

Measure across the entire face of the pulley.

I ended up buying a Dorman 594298 crank pulley, which is the replacement for the 6.125" K24 pulley with the Honda part number 13810-RRA-A02 since I couldn't actually find a 7PK1335 anywhere. 7PK1320 is also a special production belt, but at least you can get them on eBay.

JDM K24A also needs TSX studs / bolts for the TSX water pump housing and a TSX PCV valve, M14x1.5 plug, or M14x1.5 to 6AN fitting.

[ML]

email I got from 4 piston about getting 300hp with stock bottom end:


Yes it can be done on a stock rotating assembly however you sacrifice longevity that way and it becomes a bit harder to extract power. You are limited in cam profiles with the stock pistons. 300hp at the crank is not unheard of on stock blocks. I typically quote higher to ensure you hit the power goal you are after and maintain longevity and reliability. If I were just doing top end work I would do the below

Pro TSX head porting
Ferrea valve spring kit
Ferrea 6000 series all motor valves
Ferrea valve locks
Viton seals
4P RR3 camshafts
50 deg VTC gear limited to 35 degrees

This is a standard head package used for road race type engines. It provides a good amount more midrange power vs the larger port heads we offer with minimal sacrifice in peak numbers. However this set up benefits from having the vtec system active. You’re biggest issue keeping the stock rotating assembly will be piston to valve clearance. I would highly suggest also not turning the engine beyond 8400RPM as that is the point where piston speed starts to become excessive and will be problematic on the OEM rod bolts.

[brzlegend]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I don’t know if anyone has time to check, but I’m trying to figure out if my coils or injectors blew with the update. I’m just trying to get a baseline of what is normal.

20v multimeter - injector came back in full accessories position with 12.21v for orange wire and 0.13v on brown wire with 0.15 when turning it over.

Measured the coil harness with the coil disconnected. White wire was 0v and stayed at 0v when cranked. Black was 0.07 and dropped to 0.03 when cranked. Yellow was 0.06 and fluctuated 0.25-0.45 roughly like voltage climbed and fell or something transient. I thought there would be something constant there.

Coils were tested at 20k and 200k ohms looking at the plug as it goes in the engine, at 20k setting I got around 1.2 from left to middle, and at 200k I got 51-53 from middle to left and left to right.

I measured a Duralast coil at Autozone and got the 1.2, but only 5 or so instead of 53, but maybe their coil is bad or different.

Pin 3 should have 12v
pin 2 should be ground
Pin 1 is trigger
Looking at the coil with the connector facing you where you can see the pins the pin numbers will be in normal order left 1 middle 2 right 3.

[captain awesome]

After a ton of reading I've come to the conclusion that 300hp builds mostly manage to do so in higher RPMs. That typically means forged pistons with added compression are needed. Since my car is more daily street with some autocross and track days sprinkled in, the forged pistons don't make much sense due to cold slap. I also want to make more power under the curve rather than push it uphill to 9k where I won't be that often.



So with that said I've got a plan that should get me really close to the numbers I want but also are more reasonable and daily friendly.



I picked up a k24a8 short block with good crank and rods yesterday for $200. Same block as a2,a4 etc. with same rods and crank as a4. I know that the TSX rods are the best factory ones but the Accord and CRV aren't a weak link. Same can be said for the crank. The block will be sent off to a machine shop for boring to 87.5 and hot tanked. I'll be using Nippon Racing RSX hypereutectic 87.5 pistons with 12:2.1 compression which oddly enough are only $200 or less. Still deciding on what main and rod bearing brand to go with but possibly OEM. So that's the bottom end.



On top of all that will be a 4 Piston Pro TSX head. Lot's of cash for that, so gotta start saving pennies. Still undecided on cams but from my reading Toda A3 seem to be really nice to valvetrain and timing chain goodies. It also is frequently credited to a great mid range torque curve. Luke from 4 Piston did suggest the RR3 based on my questions but it can be a little harsh on components and since I'm trying to keep it more street that's a worry. A big worry however is not giving the engine enough cam to justify the new head flow or compression bump. My power window would ideally be from 4k-8200 but anywhere close to that would be great. So more research needs to be done.



For throttle body, I bought a used fa20 unit for $30 and plan to send it to Maxbore to do their magic on it. I believe the max they can bore it is 68mm which I think should help a bit up in size from the 64.5mm. I'll need to open up the Kpower adapter a little to match. This may be a little on the smaller side but we will see how it does on the dyno.


For injectors I found a deal on some used ID1050x so I can run 91 and e85 without maxing duty cycle.


Exhaust is my biggest hurdle. Making more power is obviously the goal but not for the sake of my ears. I'm still running the stock catback which I think sounds great and is perfect for daily. I can't seem to find any 3" that looks like it has an oval muffler like the OEM. So I may only step it up to 2.5" with either a Magnaflow or JBA. Any suggestions on quiet larger catbacks would be appreciated.

Hopefully I'll have it together and ready to swap by fall or late summer?


Also I sent a note to Kpower to see if they have spent anytime dynoing more aggressive builds with any kits and this is what David said:

We actually have a fresh engine in our black BRZ with a 4 Piston TSX head, Drag Cartel stage 4 cams, and 12.5:1 pistons. We'll be getting it on the dyno sometime in April, so we'll be sure to report back on results. We port matched our intake manifold to line up perfectly with the ported head, and we're moving to the Bosch 74mm throttle body. Our goal is to prove out a potent combo that customers like you can replicate. We'll post the results on social media so everyone can check it out.


So for now, stay tuned and we'll give you some relevant data from our direct experience soon!

[ML]

I'm interested in this throttle body stuff.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

I'm interested in this throttle body stuff.

For some reason the site won't let me hotlink their pics but here's where to get the work done.



http://www.maxbore.com/



http://www.maxbore.com/scion.html


An alternative is to run the Kpower 74mm TB but that will require their adapter for another $110 and then a wiring adapter on top of that. David said they already have the adapter for wiring sorted so it will be on the site soon. My thoughts after reading a million threads on K20 is that 68mm would be sufficient for my needs.



Are you getting rid of the supercharger setup?

[ML]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

For some reason the site won't let me hotlink their pics but here's where to get the work done.



http://www.maxbore.com/



http://www.maxbore.com/scion.html


An alternative is to run the Kpower 74mm TB but that will require their adapter for another $110 and then a wiring adapter on top of that. David said they already have the adapter for wiring sorted so it will be on the site soon. My thoughts after reading a million threads on K20 is that 68mm would be sufficient for my needs.



Are you getting rid of the supercharger setup?

I only made 325 on the supercharger, so If I could just make close to that on motor and lose 25 pounds off the front and simplify the setup that would be ideal. I already have to add weight back so for the class so seems like the more optimized route at this point.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

I only made 325 on the supercharger, so If I could just make close to that on motor and lose 25 pounds off the front and simplify the setup that would be ideal. I already have to add weight back so for the class so seems like the more optimized route at this point.

This makes me feel more confident going for more power NA than dealing with the complications of a SC setup. I keep getting flashbacks of my Rotrex seizing up, and I don't want to go through that feeling again.

[ML]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

This makes me feel more confident going for more power NA than dealing with the complications of a SC setup. I keep getting flashbacks of my Rotrex seizing up, and I don't want to go through that feeling again.

same! shit makes me nervous

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by brzlegend

Pin 3 should have 12v
pin 2 should be ground
Pin 1 is trigger
Looking at the coil with the connector facing you where you can see the pins the pin numbers will be in normal order left 1 middle 2 right 3.

Pretty sure I have no voltage going to the coils. I’ll check the fuses. Maybe something went. If it is not that then I’m assuming it is something on Haltech’s end. Thanks.

[RedReplicant]

It'd be nice if KPower gave any kind of timeline other than the "45-60 days" or communication, I don't really want to bother them since it has only been 60 days and I've seen some of you guys saying it was 6 to 8 months before anything shipped.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

It'd be nice if KPower gave any kind of timeline other than the "45-60 days" or communication, I don't really want to bother them since it has only been 60 days and I've seen some of you guys saying it was 6 to 8 months before anything shipped.

6-8 months?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

It'd be nice if KPower gave any kind of timeline other than the "45-60 days" or communication, I don't really want to bother them since it has only been 60 days and I've seen some of you guys saying it was 6 to 8 months before anything shipped.

I don't know anyone who waited that long. Mine was a little over 60 days if I remember correctly. Maybe a week or two over at most but it's been a while.


I think hedtrip had to wait a lot longer but it sounds like that was because he went through a dealer to purchase.