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Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB Problems, issues, recalls, TSBs |
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#29 |
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difference between a repair shop and a dealership service center. service centers just get 'em in, and get 'em out. if you're still struggling, go to an independent shop. no reason to go to the dealer for everything.
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#30 | |
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#31 | |
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When there is a short like this in the keyless access system, basically it all shuts down, and the fail safe is as you do, touch the key to the button to Verify to allow to start. |
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#32 |
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Usually, RKE and Immobilizer are two separate systems.
Touching the "button" on the door handle, the car's remote keyless entry system will ping the remote with the antenna that's inside the door handle, and the remote will answer back and remote unlock the car. Starting the car uses an entirely different antenna inside the car. Some companies put it in the button, some put it in the cupholder, some put a slot for the key under the dash, that's the antenna you have to get close to when your remote battery dies, because that antenna can provide the energy for the immo transponder to answer back, like an RFID tag. In the picture above, that's the electrical key oscillator. Keep in mind, a key can go bad. I assume you've only got one? You couldn't possibly have omitted trying the other one right? You couldn't possibly have forgotten to tell us about it right? Hint: even an independent shop can "test" a remote. At work I used a Bartec Tech400 Pro to program TPMS sensors and that has functions to "listen" to an RKE signal, or a car's antenna pinging a key and it answering back. Also, many pro-level scan tools will be able to view live data and trouble codes for the smart key system. There is literally no need for this "maybe it's the body harness give us 3000$" bullshit. |
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#33 |
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manual de servicio:
Chapter: ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM/SMART ENTRY & START SYSTEM > ENTRY & START SYSTEM (ENTRY FUNCTION) Verse: All Door Entry Lock/Unlock Functions and Wireless Functions do not Operate And unto CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION: If neither the entry door lock/unlock function nor the wireless door lock/unlock function works, it might be due to interference from external radio waves, or due to a defect in the key or a signal circuit located between the door control receiver and the collation ECM (smart key ECM ASSY). The signal circuit is shared by the entry function and the wireless door lock function. Entry cancel function (manual operation) NOTE: While the entry and start system is canceled, it is possible to lock and unlock the doors with the wireless operation, and the start system can be operated by holding the key against the engine switch. (a) The following functions are disabled when the entry and start system is canceled. 1. Entry unlock/lock functions 2. Entry ignition function 3. Key lock-in prevention function 4. Entry back door open/lock function 5. Entry warning functions Collation ECM (smart key ECM ASSY) The collation ECM (smart key ECM ASSY) transmits a request code to each electrical key antenna. It identifies and checks the ID code transmitted from the electrical key transmitter SUB ASSY and then transmits a signal to an appropriate ECM according to the function operated. When an ignition operation is performed, the collation ECM (smart key ECM ASSY) exchanges encrypted codes with the steering lock ECM (steering lock actuator ASSY).* 1 When an ignition operation is performed, the collation ECM (smart key ECM ASSY) exchanges encrypted codes with the ID code box (immobilizer code ECM).* 2 |
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#34 | ||
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Anyway. if there is an issue with his RKE putting the smart key ecm into entry cancel function, the question still stands: Why? And my advice still stands: Instead of asking on the internet if people can see the electrons in the control modules and read the fault data that is putting the car into entry cancel, it might be best to consult someone with a scan tool that can actually do that. |
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#35 |
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#36 |
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I do have two remotes and the times that it had randomly started working, they both would work. After my previous post of trying to wiggle everything around a bit, I messed around a little more, gave up, and started plugging everything back in and putting it back. After plugging the heated seat sensors, center console “cig charger”, push start button sensor back in and shoving a little aggressively on the buttons housing to snap it into place, everything worked again. Tried messing with all of these again to get it to fail so I could pinpoint where the issue was and no matter what I did I couldn’t get it to fail again. So as it sits right now, everything is working and has been for about 16 hours. Took it on some bumpy roads thinking making it would jar it around, no changes. It’s making me think it’s likely in the wiring harness, but still I’m uncertain.
I also really appreciate all of your guys help. Sorry I’m not the most technically inclined but I do read through it all and try to learn with each experience. The electrical side of cars has never been my forte unfortunately. |
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#37 |
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No, that's a theory. There is very little use in theorizing about an accident 5 years ago when no one has peeped at the error codes it has now.
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