Engine rattle, spun bearing? Now wont start

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by dvsd1991

Just pricing for worst case scenario just to get an idea. I will be pulling it apart before ordering new parts.

With that degree of metalflake in the oil, I'd presume the worst. You can pick up a new short block for around $1800, then have the rest of the parts thoroughly cleaned replacing those that are shaky. Given how little money you currently have in the car, I'd personally lean toward selling it and buying a new one. However, if cash was really tight or I was looking for a project I'd go the short (or maybe even a built block) route.

[dvsd1991]

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

With degree of metalflake in the oil, I'd resume the worst. You can pick up a new short block for around $1800, then have the rest of the parts thoroughly cleaned replacing those that are shakey. Given how little money you currently have in the car, I'd personally lean toward selling it and buying a new one. However, if cash was really tight or I was looking for a project I'd go the short (or maybe even a built block) route.

Money isn't a huge deal just don't want to sink a ton of money into it, I use it just as a DD. I'd rather rebuild for 3-4k and hope to get to 200k miles before buying a 20k new car just to put work miles on it. Just seems like the better financial choice to rebuild... Assuming the repair lasts

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by dvsd1991

Money isn't a huge deal just don't want to sink a ton of money into it, I use it just as a DD. I'd rather rebuild for 3-4k and hope to get to 200k miles before buying a 20k new car just to put work miles on it. Just seems like the better financial choice to rebuild... Assuming the repair lasts

I'm not sure how realistic a 200k longevity is, but I understand. TommyW and others on here know a lot more of the ins and outs of rebuilding these than I do. But if I were to tackle a rebuild I'd go the factory short block route. Good luck.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by dvsd1991

Money isn't a huge deal just don't want to sink a ton of money into it, I use it just as a DD. I'd rather rebuild for 3-4k and hope to get to 200k miles before buying a 20k new car just to put work miles on it. Just seems like the better financial choice to rebuild... Assuming the repair lasts

A lot will depend on your ability to do the work yourself. If you’re confident you can do it on your own and have a good outcome then more power to you. If not you’re looking at a lot of future issues. Even with a dealer or Subie shop there is no guarantee. Dealer ruined mine and and indy shop ruined my stepsons WRX. I was lucky to have an FA 20 guru do mine after the recall fiasco

[dvsd1991]

Originally Posted by TommyW

A lot will depend on your ability to do the work yourself. If you’re confident you can do it on your own and have a good outcome then more power to you. If not you’re looking at a lot of future issues. Even with a dealer or Subie shop there is no guarantee. Dealer ruined mine and and indy shop ruined my stepsons WRX. I was lucky to have an FA 20 guru do mine after the recall fiasco

I'm feel confident, going to take my time with it. My friend that is going to help has experience with engine repair not Subaru motors but his knowledge will be useful. I also have a background in aerospace manufacturing so I understand the importance of fitment and tolerances and have access to all the tools needed. My biggest worry about this whole project is the RTV on everything. I've been reading the recall instructions up and down and researching before getting into it. Is it safe to say if I follow the RTV instructions perfectly I'll be ok, Or should I error on the side of less is more?

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by dvsd1991

I'm feel confident, going to take my time with it. My friend that is going to help has experience with engine repair not Subaru motors but his knowledge will be useful. I also have a background in aerospace manufacturing so I understand the importance of fitment and tolerances and have access to all the tools needed. My biggest worry about this whole project is the RTV on everything. I've been reading the recall instructions up and down and researching before getting into it. Is it safe to say if I follow the RTV instructions perfectly I'll be ok, Or should I error on the side of less is more?

Les can be more. Too many techs think more is more hence the issues. Removing the old sealant is just as important as applying the new. Remove it and then clean everything again. There are detailed instructions on the sealant application. The sealant removal and application takes A LONG TIME so don't rush it. The dealer techs aren't allowed enough time hence the issues. Good luck I hope all goes well.

[dvsd1991]

Originally Posted by TommyW

Les can be more. Too many techs think more is more hence the issues. Removing the old sealant is just as important as applying the new. Remove it and then clean everything again. There are detailed instructions on the sealant application. The sealant removal and application takes A LONG TIME so don't rush it. The dealer techs aren't allowed enough time hence the issues. Good luck I hope all goes well.

Thanks, fingers crossed.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by dvsd1991

Thanks, fingers crossed.

Less is more as long as the philosophy behind the instructions is understood. Thorough degreasing prior to application is key.

@NoHaveMSG, can you share pics of the alignment pins you made for the timing cover here? That was genius.

[NoHaveMSG]

[Ultramaroon]

U da man

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

U da man

I haz my moments.

[blsfrs]

The cardboard cutout for keeping track of the 38 timing cover bolts was cool too.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

The cardboard cutout for keeping track of the 38 timing cover bolts was cool too.

Old flat rate habits never die, they just get applied elsewhere.

I actually pulled and stuck them here first. Then did a new sheet where I numbered the tightening pattern and transferred them there.

[demasrv]

Oh my god those alignment pins would've been so useful.


When I was cleaning up the gasket material, there was some on the front of the cam gear/hub and I had no idea how a tech could've possibly smudged some there. Until a buddy and I applied the sealant and put the timing cover on and did the same thing


Between all of the gaskets/parts, I'm probably in for about $4k on my rebuild (including a fancy digital torque wrench). That being said, I'm also replacing the timing chain/guides/tensioners, water pump, and clutch/flywheel bearings. I went ahead and bought new head bolts and a new crankshaft bolt instead of risking to reuse them. Also putting in a new overpipe since it was the only stock piece of my exhaust left. I probably overbought fluids and gasket maker though.