To Everybody installing Forced Induction

[ShadowReaper]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Remove the belt first.

FA20 ENGINE MECHANICAL: DRIVE BELT: REMOVAL; 2013 MY FR-S [03/2012 - ]

lol.....thanks chewie...remove the belt, got it.
I've decided already on the throttle body option.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ShadowReaper

lol.....thanks chewie...remove the belt, got it.
I've decided already on the throttle body option.

Good luck! I know.... turbo takes up all that working room

[ShadowReaper]

I got some pictures to add to this thread
1st picture: Overlook
2nd picture: The hose (in red) connects to the solenoid, helpful for tracing it.
3rd picture: (From the back of the Intake Manifold) 2 Hoses from the solenoid and the nut you need to take off to push the solenoid forward
4th picture: Here is what it looks like after pushing it forward. As you can tell, one of the hoses is just barely hanging on. (4 years of being boosted and 8 psi)
Unfortunately this did not solve my fuel trim problems but at least they are clamped now.

Instructions on how to get there: Credit: @YamahaR86
1. Disconnect MAF and MAP sensors.
2. Remove intake pipe
3. Remove throttle body (disconnect connector and push it to the side)
4. Disconnect blue connector on back of manifold, you can use this as a reference on where the EVAP is.
5. Remove 10mm nut in the back of the manifold holding in the EVAP (don't drop it)
6. Move the long hose directly under the throttle body out of the way
7. Reach in the back of the manifold and push the EVAP out
8. I managed to use worm clamps on both hoses and the one directly underneath the throttle body (this one was a bit tricky). If using other clamps, it's 9/16 I believe.

[johnowow]

@ShadowReaper I’ve been boosted for almost 3 years now and have always avoided this process but you have explained it in the easiest way possible and I finally did it lmao, huge thank you!

[ShadowReaper]

Originally Posted by johnowow

@ShadowReaper I’ve been boosted for almost 3 years now and have always avoided this process but you have explained it in the easiest way possible and I finally did it lmao, huge thank you!

[Qwimby1]

Is the 5lb boost produced by a Phantom Electric Supercharger enough to cause this problem?

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

Is the 5lb boost produced by a Phantom Electric Supercharger enough to cause this problem?

Just saw your post I never had this issue even with the twin set up. But it could be possible. Seen that most kits start around 7psi and that's what I was pushing.

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by Smooth_assassin

Is that why I couldn’t get my car dyno’ed correctly???

The person that tunes my car said it was my cam gears that’s not working properly. Therefore, it it kept going back to “0” every time the tuner reflashes it while on the dyno.

I’m not convince it’s the cam gears cause I can still drive it as we speak on daily basis as it is on a base map nothing to Crazy he got it up to 230whp on 10psi. Which my car has so much more potential since it’s a built motor.

Hi, did you ever find out what the real issue that was limiting your power was ? Was it related to this hose issue ?

[FRS-AZ]

Would anybody know if any of loose hoses will cause overheating issue or just lose of boost?

[four-mat]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

...And everybody who already did, and just can't seem to get it running right.

This applies to every kit that doesn't replace the factory intake manifold. All turbos, and all centrifugal superchargers.

there is a small solenoid valve bolted to the underside of the intake manifold, pictured below.

This is the EVAP purge solenoid. It has a line running from the body of the valve to the intake manifold, under the throttle body. It is not clamped in place.

Many of the FI install directions miss it, many describe it poorly, and none picture it. Individuals, shops, and tuners have missed it on a regular basis.

This line pops off very easily under boost. When it does, it will create a large, invisible boost leak, and all of the associated tuning problems.

The line needs a 3/16" hose clamp at both ends. It doesn't hurt to clamp the line into the solenoid either.

Please sticky this. @ichitaka05

I'm running a 2014 brz stock 150k. I have a CEL for a very small evap leak. Suggestions on Torque App say it may be this Solenoid or the system under the rear trunk. My question for you is does the stock Solenoid appear in the same area and would you happen to know the torque specs for reassembly if I replace this to see if it fixes the CEL before I have to do significant more tear down for the rear parts charcoal Canister, vapor canister valve? Thanks in advance.