Axle issues / annoyance

[Opie]

Update:

So I got under the car today to replace the left axle with the newly repacked axle. Found 2 interesting things...the left inner axle boot was struck by some debris on track that cut a small hole in it at Daytona....that is why it leaked so soon. Also found the original axle on the right side finally let go, slung all it's grease out (32k miles, 10k on track, over 200 days over 4 years).

So after a lot of undercarriage cleaning...at least nothing will rust...lol, I replaced both rear axles with cleaned, repacked and rebooted axles. We'll see how this goes!

I'll be cleaning, repacking and rebooting the 2 I pulled out as spares!

[Autoxer62]

Thanks for those part numbers! For anyone interested, I found the boot/clamp kits on SubaruPartsDeal.com for $31 each.

Reading the Subaru manual, it looks like the factory uses the tool-less clamps. Anyone have any additional tips or clarification? I suppose the bend/don't bend thing will be obvious upon doing the job? Sorry to be kinda dense, but I've never done a CV joint so it's a great mystery to me.

Installation of rear drive shaft outboard joint boot clamp NO. 2
(1) Apply lubricants to the inner surface of a new rear drive shaft out-board joint boot clamp NO. 2.
(2) Install the rear drive shaft outboard joint boot clamp NO. 2 to the EDJ boot, and then temporarily bend the lever.
WARNING:
Wear protective gloves during operation. Use extra caution to prevent hands from being injured.
CAUTION:
• When temporarily bending the lever, make sure no bend is found on the band and lever.
• Do not repeat bending the lever many times to prevent the rear drive shaft outboard joint boot clamp NO. 2 from being cut.
(3) While holding the bent lever by hand, bend the buckle.
(4) Using a plastic hammer, tap the buckle to secure.
CAUTION:
• Do not tap the buckle excessively with a plastic hammer.
• Install the lever so that there is no lifting portion.
• Make sure that the gap between 2 buckles becomes parallel.

[Opie]

Originally Posted by Autoxer62

Thanks for those part numbers! For anyone interested, I found the boot/clamp kits on SubaruPartsDeal.com for $31 each.

Reading the Subaru manual, it looks like the factory uses the tool-less clamps. Anyone have any additional tips or clarification? I suppose the bend/don't bend thing will be obvious upon doing the job? Sorry to be kinda dense, but I've never done a CV joint so it's a great mystery to me.

Installation of rear drive shaft outboard joint boot clamp NO. 2
(1) Apply lubricants to the inner surface of a new rear drive shaft out-board joint boot clamp NO. 2.
(2) Install the rear drive shaft outboard joint boot clamp NO. 2 to the EDJ boot, and then temporarily bend the lever.
WARNING:
Wear protective gloves during operation. Use extra caution to prevent hands from being injured.
CAUTION:
• When temporarily bending the lever, make sure no bend is found on the band and lever.
• Do not repeat bending the lever many times to prevent the rear drive shaft outboard joint boot clamp NO. 2 from being cut.
(3) While holding the bent lever by hand, bend the buckle.
(4) Using a plastic hammer, tap the buckle to secure.
CAUTION:
• Do not tap the buckle excessively with a plastic hammer.
• Install the lever so that there is no lifting portion.
• Make sure that the gap between 2 buckles becomes parallel.

That is correct, for the factory clamps, just need a small hammer to flatten the clamps on the boot. It has a lever that tensions it, then you flatten the tabs on the clamp to keep it secure. It'll make sense when you take it apart

[Opie]

Put together a "how-to" video while taking care of our few spare axles:

https://rumble.com/v26y4ae-subaru-br...rebooting.html

[86league]

Originally Posted by Opie

Put together a "how-to" video while taking care of our few spare axles:

Thanks for the info and video.

Took a left side axle apart with ~61,000 miles and a lot of track time apart after noticing it slinging grease out on the differential side.

Good bit of the grease was liquid and poured out - I'd say similar to your video one, but there was some remnants of actual grease up in the center toward the diff - I guess where it didn't get worked.

Generally things looked to be in decent shape - the boot was intact w/o any tears or holes that I could find. The inner race had some slight wear but no groves or anything. The ball bearings all looked fine. The housing had the similar wear most places, but one spot has some damage.



This is from running with insufficient (no) lubrication at that spot?

Too bad, I was hoping I could just re-pack this with grease and keep it as a spare.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by 86league

Thanks for the info and video.

Took a left side axle apart with ~61,000 miles and a lot of track time apart after noticing it slinging grease out on the differential side.

Good bit of the grease was liquid and poured out - I'd say similar to your video one, but there was some remnants of actual grease up in the center toward the diff - I guess where it didn't get worked.

Generally things looked to be in decent shape - the boot was intact w/o any tears or holes that I could find. The inner race had some slight wear but no groves or anything. The ball bearings all looked fine. The housing had the similar wear most places, but one spot has some damage.



This is from running with insufficient (no) lubrication at that spot?

Too bad, I was hoping I could just re-pack this with grease and keep it as a spare.

I might get some heat for this but.. you could run that axle on the other side (or keep it as an emergency spare but only for the other side). Of course this assumes the steel ball isn't damaged.

This is because if ran in the opposite direction the ball will ride along the opposite valley where the pitting hadn't occurred. The axle in my car currently experienced this on the left side and it is currently installed on the right side and working just fine.

The pitting is primarily the failure of lubrication.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

I might get some heat for this but.. you could run that axle on the other side (or keep it as an emergency spare but only for the other side). Of course this assumes the steal ball isn't damaged.

Eh, I'd hope no one looks down on it that hard. S2000 people have been doing the same thing for years.

[86league]

Can you not take apart the outer CV to clean/inspect?

The service manual after showing how to disassemble the inner CV says :

"Further disassembly of the drive shaft is impossible because the DOJ and EBJ cannot be disassembled."

[Koba]

Thanks for the video!

[Opie]

Originally Posted by 86league

Can you not take apart the outer CV to clean/inspect?

The service manual after showing how to disassemble the inner CV says :

"Further disassembly of the drive shaft is impossible because the DOJ and EBJ cannot be disassembled."

IIRC you can only regrease and reboot the outer assembly when the inner assembly is already apart. You cannot disassemble the actual joint like the inner assembly. At least I couldn't figure out how it came apart.

[jflogerzi]

Bookmarking this thread for later reference. I think I have my passenger side rear boot/axle going.

[ROADRACER]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

I might get some heat for this but.. you could run that axle on the other side (or keep it as an emergency spare but only for the other side). Of course this assumes the steel ball isn't damaged.

This is because if ran in the opposite direction the ball will ride along the opposite valley where the pitting hadn't occurred. The axle in my car currently experienced this on the left side and it is currently installed on the right side and working just fine.

The pitting is primarily the failure of lubrication.

Brilliant! I like it.

[strat61caster]

Took mine apart last weekend, 108k street miles, a hundred+ autox and only 5x track days. Grease looked ok, like Venom sludge, but I do have some pitting on the outer CV housing (not as bad as 86league above) so I'm a little glad I did it, but it probably would have been fine for awhile. Repacking and swapping L/R this weekend and going to order a spare.

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by Opie

That is correct, for the factory clamps, just need a small hammer to flatten the clamps on the boot. It has a lever that tensions it, then you flatten the tabs on the clamp to keep it secure. It'll make sense when you take it apart

Opening an old thread. I've had 2 of my repacked axles fail in the same weekend. I filled the cv cup 1/2-2/3's full of Redline cv2 grease and packed it around the bearings. The first time the boot was torn and a few of the bearings fell out.I thought initially that I had a loose wheel. The second time the inner retainer pushed off, venting the grease. I saw the smoke and pulled in the paddock. Left side both times.. I'm na powered and lowered 1". The cups were still very hot 1/2 hour after coming into the paddock.
I'm trying to troubleshoot, Too much grease? Too little grease. After reading what you and others have written, I'm going to insulate my exhaust pipe.

Any other suggestions?