Irace86.2.0's KPower Turbo K24 Swap

[Irace86.2.0]

My radiator likely had oil and metal circulating through it, so I figured it is time for an upgrade. I just ordered the Jackson Racing Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler straight from JR, but not the kit. Just the radiator was $625. This will be a better solution than trying to mount an external oil cooler in front or near the FMIC.

I will include custom oil lines for this when I get the other lines for the turbo. As far as the sandwich plate, Greddy makes an oil sandwich plate that works with the M20x1.50 oil filter bolt. There are two options here: one is for something that changes the oil filter bolt size and one that maintains the oil filter bolt size. Technically, either one works, but the latter of the two allows for Honda filters to fit instead of having to switch to different oil filters.

Greddy also offers two adapters to run 1/8 Pt/BSP fittings: one is a plug with a 1/8 PT female port and the other has multiple ports with a M18 end. My Defi oil pressure and oil temperature gauges are PT/BSP and not NPT, so this sandwich plate is ideal.

This sandwich plate has a thermostat. I believe different thermostats can work differently on different sandwich plates. Essentially, some are designed where if someone removed the thermostat, the oil cooler would always see flow, and some are designed where if someone removed the thermostat, the oil cooler would always be bypassed. I called Greddy, and they said their sandwich plate will allow minimal flow to the oil cooler until the thermostat opens, and while they don't recommend removing the thermostat, if someone did remove the thermostat then oil would constantly go to the oil cooler. I don't know if I plan to do this. I am more interested in using the oil cooler to cool the oil than to heat it up, but I may do this.

They also said there are two feed lines and two return lines; one is angled and one is straight, so essentially one side is feed and one side is return, which gives the user the option to run it whichever way fits best. The feed is on the left side next to the GREX embossment, and the return side is on the right by the cap for the thermostat. The return side will have a return fitting and an unused plug. The feed side will have the output port, and the other port could be used for anything. I will utilize their oil adapter, which has three PT/BSP ports to run my oil pressure and oil temperature Defi gauges. I got a 1/8 BSP to 1/8 BSP extension that they sell because I believe my temperature probe probably will not fit the adapter without it. In the worst case scenario, I am out $12 bucks. Then I will use the M18x1.50 port on the end of the adapter to run a M18x1.50 to -4AN oil feed line to the turbo. The other option is running the oil feed line off the straight port and running the cooler feed line from the end of the adapter. Whatever fits best.

https://shopgreddy-com.myshopify.com...12108379062392

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Petah78

Is the K power swap kit even available for purchase yet?

No sir. I got an email that said because of COVID, prices will be going up. It also said that times for getting kits out has been around 30-60 days, so I don't expect to finish this project anytime soon.

My catted front pipe is delayed from Berk. My custom turbo manifold and downpipe are delayed because BMF is waiting on the flex pipe sections. Harrop is delayed in getting parts to me, so I can sell my supercharger. I haven't heard back about the Drift Armor front crash bar that I bought in late May. RSX Type-S oil pumps are on backorder. Shit is a mess, but it is what it is.

I am hoping that Kpower will release the pre-orders this month to early next month, so I can lock down a kit.

I emailed Zach and Neil at The Racer's Line who said I should be able to get the car dyno tuned when the time comes, but all of this has ETAs that are up in the air. If I had all the parts, I could fabricate what I need and install it all in a week. Oh well.

[Irace86.2.0]

I have still been mulling over how to mount the coolant lines for the turbo. Essentially, the system works by having the pump push coolant through the engine, and it then comes out the driver's rear side of the head and the back of the head where it then runs to the heater and to other parts of the engine before returning to the back of the pump, and when the thermostat is open then the coolant is free to push through the back of the motor to the radiator and then returns through the thermostat:

1. I could use the lines off the driver's side of the motor like the lines normally running to the throttle body or the return lines running back to the coolant pump, but these aren't very accessible and would require longer lines to be made, which would run around the back or over the top of the engine.

2. My other option is to run off the coolant lines off the back of the motor, which run to the heater core. Kpower seems to be routing a hot return line down the passenger side frame to the radiator. It may be possible to link into the system there depending on how they have set up the routing. This could also be the shortest route for a feed line.

3. My other option is to use a port that is blocked off, but in use on the K20A2 motor, which would be the shortest return line. It is the oil regulator/cooler return. It requires the use of the oil cooler joint part#11107-PT2-000. The feed for this is normally found off the coolant pump, but is missing on the K24A2. The solution is to buy a K20A2 coolant pump, coolant pump bracket and perhaps the alternator and pulley brackets, which seems a little excessive. I was considering replacing the coolant pump, as it comes with Kpower's engine refresh kit along with spark plugs, gaskets and other needed upgrades. What I could do is tap the new coolant pump housing and run an adapter for the feed. This assumes I can't use something more accessible off the back of the motor. I will probably need to wait until the kit is released to finalize my plans.

[steved]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I just ordered the Jackson Racing Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler straight from JR, but not the kit. Just the radiator was $625. This will be a better solution than trying to mount an external oil cooler in front or near the FMIC.
[/IMG]

I had the dual rad on my carb tuned jrsc kit and had terrible overheating issues at the track.

Upgraded to the standalone oil cooler kit and had a significant improvement but still hit over 265F on track after about 18-20 min even after installing a front drift bar and raising the intercooler to expose about 4" vertical of the oil cooler .

I have high hopes for the k series design to operate at lower temperatures than the fa20 in this chassis (poor underhood ventilation) but I'm planning a 4piston k25 n/a build so heat may not be as much an issue as FI.

[Irace86.2.0]

Water cooled turbo? IATs ok? Did you try removing the fans? You’re in Canada, and you still saw such high oil temps too. E85? What is your hp/boost?

This will primarily be for daily driving, hooning, and canyon carving. It will likely see track time after I go to stage 2 and do tranny and a built engine. I gotta get through nursing school with an intact car.

[Irace86.2.0]

I got the radiator installed. It was pretty easy without having a bumper or intake installed. It looks like a well made product.

Greddy says the oil adapter will be delayed. No rush I guess.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Looks super clean

[Dave-ROR]

I just bought a salvage TSX.. mostly for parts for my TSX but if I sell enough $$ in parts off the car I'll keep the motor and will start a boosted K swap plan myself.. following this thread for sure!

[Irace86.2.0]

I took a trip to the local Pick-N-Pull and had a fairly successful day. My motor was missing an AC compressor, so that was my number one priority, but I had a few other ideas too.* I found a few k24s in some Accords and a K20Z3 that was in less than stellar shape. I pulled a water pump and housing from a K24, along with a starter and alternator, and I also got a clean pulley tensioner and AC compressor from another motor. I also found a water pump and housing from the K20Z3. Set me back $200, but now I have extra parts. I don't think the starter will be utilized on this swap like it is on the Miata swap, but it was only like $12. I also don't think it is necessary to swap to the USDM accessories, but I like having extras just in case, and I can always sell them on eBay later.

The K20Z3 water pump and housing will be used to supply the coolant feed line for the turbo. The coolant pipe running off the water pump normally has a hose end, but I want to make everything with -6AN fittings. I thought about welding in a bung, so I can run a -6AN adapter, but K-tuned already has a few solutions. One is a plug with a 3/8 NPT plug, and the other is a fitting with a 3/8 nipple and likely a 3/8 NPT plug. I like the first one pictured below. If someone wanted to just use rubber hoses then the stock hose barb would be fine.

https://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Oil...NPT_p_501.html






For the return side, I think I have decided to use the same fitting mentioned above with a 90 degree 3/8 NPT to -6AN flare, which will then join with a -6AN line. The K24A2 motor has a hole bored and another hole that is tapped to accept a stock oil cooler fitting, which looks like this first picture. On some K24s there is a plug in the block heater on the inside (M18x1.0 I believe), and there is likely a hole and tap on the front, and some K24s have a plug on the outside (M28x1.0 I believe), and they don't have a hole on the front (see pics).






*On a side note: I feel like the stock AC lines might mount up to the k24's AC compressor without modification. They might plug into the slots in a universal type of way, but the rear line might not be long enough. I believe Kpower is working on an AC kit, but it would be great if that wasn't necessary.

[Irace86.2.0]

For the K24A2, there are two options: run the S2000 oil cooler joint, previously mentioned, or run the plug and run the port on the front of the motor. If someone planned to run a hose barb then just do the S2000 oil cooler joint seen below (PN:11107-PT2-000):





If someone is using a K24 that doesn't have the front port drilled then they could use the S2000 oil cooler joint, or they could use the Prelude oil cooler joint. In this case, the Prelude joint is a cleaner approach, as it blocks the outside, unlike the S2000 joint that allows dirt around it (PN:11107-pk2-003).






I will be getting a plug for the large opening. Someone could also run a block heater to this location. Would a block heater help get the coolant warmer faster, so the oil can get warmer faster? Hmmmm... Anyways, the plug looks like this one below (PN:90001-pm3-003). As I mentioned in part 1, I will run a 3/8 NPT to -6AN adapters off the K-tuned plug adapter for the stock hole and tap. The feed and return might utilize a 90 degree or straight with a degreed -6AN hose, but the return in particular might need two turns, so I'll have to figure that out later.







https://www.anhosefittings.com/male-...ion-06-06.html
https://www.anhosefittings.com/90-de...e-union-6.html


Just a remind, the idea here is to run a high pressure feed line off the water pump to the bottom of the turbo and then to have the return off the top of the turbo (clocked 20 degrees) back to the block. This should be best for flow and for circulation on shutdown. People have run these off the heater hoses or returned them to the radiator. This can be questionable for performance, as the water may not circulate all the time, or it could lead to less than ideal flow. The most ideal setup would be a high pressure feed off a line that stayed low, and off a low pressure return that stayed high, and both of these would be straight and at an angle and without sags, but we do the best with what we have.

[Irace86.2.0]

This is premature because I won't be able to finalize everything until I can mock up the turbo kit on the motor, or until the motor goes in the car, or until I have the swap kit to know what is included and what I want to upgrade. Nevertheless, I want to start working on a master list for the AN lines and fittings that I can update when I figure out the distances and angles to the fittings.

Here is a nice explanation of different types of fittings, hose ends, bulkhead adapters, etc. for anyone confused by your options.

https://www.havocspeed.com/havoc-spe...hose-fittings/

DymePSI makes a kit for shops or individuals with deep pockets. This allows someone to take measurements before ordering custom made hoses that are assembled, crimped, cleaned and pressure tested. For individuals at home making their own lines, the thing to do seems to be to buy different fittings in each odd angle and some hose, and then mock them up, and then order the other fittings. I think a straight AN hose end is obvious and so is a 45, 90 or 180 degree fitting, but the 30, 60 or 120 might not be so obvious and, especially if clearance is tight. Some places will take returns for unopened and unused fittings.

https://dymepsi.com/rattlesnake-hose-design-toolkit/

Turbo Lines

Oil Feed Line
-4AN to hose (angle to be determined)
-4AN hose w/ heat shield
-4AN to hose (angle to be determined)
-4AN to M18x1.5 adapter to oil sandwich plate sensor adaptor



-M18 Dowty bonded sealing washer


Oil Return Line
-10AN to hose (angle to be determined)
-10AN hose w/ heat shield
-10AN to hose (angle to be determined)
-10AN to -10AN ORB adapter to URL tension cover (straight or 90 degree)



Water Feed and Return Line
-6AN to hose (angle to be determined)
-6AN hose w/ heat shield
-6AN to hose (angle to be determined; likely straight and 90 degree or more)
-6AN to 3/8 NPT (likely 90 degree)



Oil Cooler

Oil Cooler Feed and Return
-10AN to hose x2 (angle to be determined)
-10AN hose w/ heat shield x2
-10AN to hose x2 (angle to be determined)
-Greddy sandwich plate with adapters



Catch Can

-PCV delete adapter -10AN to M14x1.5 or weld a -10AN flare, which is probably going to have a larger hole. See this K-Motor delete:
https://kmotorperformance.com/shop/k...d-k-swap-cars/

-10AN flare bung for valve cover x1 and to catch can x2 (depends on what Kpower provides for the rear valve cover vent)

-10AN to hose x2 (angle to be determined)
-10AN hose w/ heat shield x2
-10AN to hose x2 (angle to be determined)


Fuel System

-To be determined

[DIY]

Check out TrackTuff, they have a lot of oil and water fittings for the Honda engines.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by DIY

Check out TrackTuff, they have a lot of oil and water fittings for the Honda engines.

I should have found that sight sooner before ordering what I ordered. They have a few smart solutions. I actually had considered welding a bung to the bolt like they do, but the zinc coating needs to be removed, and then it is only mild steel underneath, so I decided against that and just got the other products. I’ll have to see what else they have.




https://tractuff.com/products/tractu...-to-an-adapter




https://tractuff.com/products/tractu...k-port-adapter

I actually might buy the adapter above. Saves me from having to use a 2/3 NPT to AN adapter, and it will probably flow better and be less likely to cause issue.

Edit: Bought two of these lower adapters. The bolt is cool too, but I have the plug coming, and this is better. I’ll sell the K-tuned ones on Ebay or return them.

[Irace86.2.0]

I managed to secure an oil pump kit, gaskets, VTC gear, thermostat and other OEM components, so when those come in, I'll finally be able to move forward with assembling the engine. I'm still waiting on a lot of parts.

I removed the pressed-in breather on the valve cover. I will be welding that area shut and welding in a bung. Kpower might have a plug they will offer, or they may offer a rubber cap, if it doesn't cause interference. There is a press-in AN bung that is offered by K-Motor, but I don't think a 90 degree fitting will clear, and even if it does, it may not clear well, so I am just going to weld a bung. I will paint the valve cover a wrinkle red or black. I am leaning towards red. I'll be running a -10AN fitting to a catch can. I'll also weld a bung to the PCV location and run that to a separate catch can. These will be vented to atmosphere with a filter.

I was going to have AN lines made because they could be pressure tested, but I also might just buy the materials and do them myself, so I can guarantee the lines fit perfectly, and so I can order it now and guarantee it comes in time. I do have time, so I might wait until the manifold comes in, so I can at least mock up the turbo to know the angles for the fittings I will need.

I might order the downpipe section and aluminum intercooler pipes now, even if the engine isn't in to mock up everything. Hopefully I can approximate everything and buy a little extra. Again, I don't want to be waiting even longer for parts.