Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by Matt93SE

I see a small amount of oil in my intake and I have Radium dual catch cans, but they never fill up. I also don't lose any oil (at least not that I can see from the dipstick) on a race weekend, which is about 2hrs of track time.

for street use, I wouldn't worry about it. for track use, add catch cans and an AOS.

my hks v2 car does the same, that soot you see in intake is mostly because of intake reversion during overlap of cams in a centrifugal superchargerd car
that s why it bypasses the catch cans

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by 86Hakone

I plan on installing the C38 kit with HBP as soon as I get the rest of my order from CSG. I purchased the Crawford AOS v3 a while back but never installed it. I asked Jackson racing about compatibility and they told me they don't recommend an AOS or catch can as its not needed.

The question I have for anyone who knows or runs this setup without issues. What extra stuff did you do when it was installed to ensure compatibility and proper function?

Some digging around indicates that some have zero issues while others say it needs extra check valves. Everything I know about boxers would lead me to believe oil vapor is gonna get in the intake without an AOS.

Everything you know about *EJ* boxers doesn't apply to an FA.

[86Hakone]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Everything you know about *EJ* boxers doesn't apply to an FA.

Last time I took the intake off it had oil residue in it. I thought all pcv systems do this by design and the extra pressure from FI is only gonna make it worse. Every bit of extra oil vapor is lowering my octane level. I know as long as the pcv is left intact some is gonna get through. So why not mitigate it as much as possible? Porsche has them on their cars stock from the factory due to flat engines having more issues with this. If I'm gonna drive a time bomb I want that clock to run as slow as possible.

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by 86Hakone

Last time I took the intake off it had oil residue in it. I thought all pcv systems do this by design and the extra pressure from FI is only gonna make it worse. Every bit of extra oil vapor is lowering my octane level. I know as long as the pcv is left intact some is gonna get through. So why not mitigate it as much as possible? Porsche has them on their cars stock from the factory due to flat engines having more issues with this. If I'm gonna drive a time bomb I want that clock to run as slow as possible.

yes, it's cool, I too have 2 shiny expensive catch cans in my hood
But most of the intake soot and residue is from intake reversion during overlap where catch cans have 0% effect

[86Hakone]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

yes, it's cool, I too have 2 shiny expensive catch cans in my hood
But most of the intake soot and residue is from intake reversion during overlap where catch cans have 0% effect

How full do your cans get?

[tomm.brz]

almost nothing, even when beating engine at redline with 1bar of boost i don't know why

[Matt93SE]

that's because oil mist that collects in the intake and/or doesn't separate from the air in the catch cans as mentioned earlier. The constant vacuum/pressure spikes in the intake tract are much more severe than the crankcase breather side, so it causes the oil mist to coagulate into droplets and collect on the intake ducting near the throttle body. think of how rain is 'made' in a cloud.

On my car, the charge pipes from the compressor to intercooler are clean and dry, while the stuff between the MAF and throttle body is oily. so the oil either comes out of the throttle body during reversion, or is coming in as a mist through the entire compressor, charge piping, intercooler, etc., then coming out of the air and collecting on the tubing just before the throttle body. crazy.

Not sure if that all makes sense, but it does in my head. LOL

[86Hakone]

What could be causing it to build so much boost. 3rd gear pull. (corrected for altitude its 10 psi I might be dumb) edit*

https://datazap.me/u/lionlol/log-161...1&hg=9-45-4-31

[tomm.brz]

it s not "too much boost". it s normal

Boost in a supercharger depends also on cam timings, exhaust restriction and atmosphere temperature and pressure
you could reach 0,71bar as say 0,65 or 0,75, depending on weather

Also stating a single pressure for a centrifugal supercharger is dumb since you see boost is different at every rpm, so i guess they state it @ peak power rpm which usually is around 6800rpm... and you have exactly 0.68bar (10psi)
anyway that boost is just ok. everything looks ok in that log and in your tune

[86Hakone]

Yeah realized the value was normal right after I posted it. Absolute Manifold pressure does not equal boost. I wasn't subtracting the 14.7.

[Breadman]

Since the search function is trash and there are 403 pages, does anyone know the recommended spark plugs and gap? i just bought a c38 with a hbp and forgot to ask when i was on the phone with them. I assume its one of those "while you are in there you might as well" things

[ML]

Originally Posted by Breadman

Since the search function is trash and there are 403 pages, does anyone know the recommended spark plugs and gap? i just bought a c38 with a hbp and forgot to ask when i was on the phone with them. I assume its one of those "while you are in there you might as well" things

OEM

[Breadman]

Originally Posted by ML

OEM

i know you arent technically supposed to gap iridium plugs but use whatever gap they come with? ive always heard with more boost you want either less gap or a colder plug but i guess thats for big boost like 10-12psi

[mrg666]

My stock fuel pump failed after 4 years. Engine idles fine, car drives okay normally. But acceleration, especially left turns, lead to engine hesitating. I have bought replacement Deatchwerks 300c and ordered a Verus fuel flap door for starvation and I am not driving until those are installed next weekend.

Last time I tried WOT while engine was hesitating, I heard a clanking sound. I immediately released the throttle and parked the car. Engine still starts okay warms up without any CEL codes but I have not tried on the road yet. After the fuel pump is installed I will check again. If I bent a conrod or damaged the valves, it is IAG shortblock time. I have been planning to do that anyway.

With FI, the engine is more sensitive to fuel starvation. I highly recommend replacing your fuel pumps and install the Verus fuel starvation before seeing the fuel pump fail. I wish I had done this earlier before risking the engine.