CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[TwinFTW]

EDIT: I will start a new thread for my differential on the drivetrain forum... since this is going off topic for the suspension thread.



During my "B road mountain run" today, I decided to do some experimenting. Whenever I could smell my differential, I would take my foot out of it and pull over into the next turnout for 5 minutes.

Seemed to help significantly at being able to put power down in the uphill sections where I use more throttle.

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Any chance to check the temperature of the diff after that?
Borrow someone's IR camera, or something?
Or maybe even a temperature sensor with a data logger

Going to start thinking about this... probably a good idea to get more quantifiable data about what is actually happening before I start throwing money blindly at things.

Also planning to take a look underneath the car tonight to see if there is any leaks or seepage from the transmission and diff.

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Tried using higher temperature and/or higher viscosity diff oils?

That's why I picked the 300LS in the diff as a first step, even though it is still listed as a 75w90 I believe it has higher viscosity than regular Motul 300 75w90.

[Compelica]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Just as a data point, see the ride heights 949 Racing use for their Xida prototype: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3230584
Note that they run taller 225/45/17 tires, so subtract 4.5 mm from their numbers if you're on stock tire diameter.
Don't forget to have a person in the driver's seat of the car when measuring ride height.

Very interesting, thank you for the link!

I'm on 225/45/R17s as well, as the tyre size is fairly common with more choice of tyres. What I'm trying to fix is the amount of roll that I'm getting which unsettles me - I'm aware some amount of roll is to be expected but I'm taking this as a learning curve to understand how I want the car to be.

Ride quality is 'good enough' but I'm not sure within my current means of hardware which I can make it 'better', but fixing the foremost issues like the preloaded sway bars due to the shortened endlinks and establishing new ride height will be my priority for now.

[bmacfrs]

Looking for anyone with experience running the front and rear on full stiff.
I have Tarmac 2 coils with the 400 springs, 17x9 wheels, 200tw tires, have been keeping bars on full soft. I suspect I need the bars to be stiffer all around for track use.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

Looking for anyone with experience running the front and rear on full stiff.
I have Tarmac 2 coils with the 400 springs, 17x9 wheels, 200tw tires, have been keeping bars on full soft. I suspect I need the bars to be stiffer all around for track use.

Yeah people do it all the time. Try it out, take notes, etc.

- Andrew

[stacyu18]

ok so here is a question Im wanting to lower my brz down some does anyone have know how low you can go with factory tire and rims

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by stacyu18

ok so here is a question Im wanting to lower my brz down some does anyone have know how low you can go with factory tire and rims

Factory wheels and tires are usually not the limiting factor for lowering.

We don't really recommend lowering more than an inch on factory shocks. You can, but the ride isn't good. With proper coilovers, you can go a little farther.

- Andrew

[Stonehorsw]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Factory wheels and tires are usually not the limiting factor for lowering.

We don't really recommend lowering more than an inch on factory shocks. You can, but the ride isn't good. With proper coilovers, you can go a little farther.

- Andrew

New to the platform. I see RCE yellow (250 lb/in square setup) and eibach pro (i don’t recall the rates, but read somewhere in the forum the rear springs have a higher rate). Which one would you recommend for a beginner level driver for autox in 17+ stock suspension and tires?

Not planning to install before learning more about the car and having more seat time (w/o snow).

So far, I liked the vehicle handling characteristics (18 brz) stock, but would like a small drop on the height without messing too much with it.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Stonehorsw

New to the platform. I see RCE yellow (250 lb/in square setup) and eibach pro (i don’t recall the rates, but read somewhere in the forum the rear springs have a higher rate). Which one would you recommend for a beginner level driver for autox in 17+ stock suspension and tires?

Not planning to install before learning more about the car and having more seat time (w/o snow).

So far, I liked the vehicle handling characteristics (18 brz) stock, but would like a small drop on the height without messing too much with it.

Obviously biased but yeah RCE Yellow springs are one of a few performance focused springs for this platform. Mild drop is good for performance, and they include replacement bumpstops.

The even rates work because the front strut suspension of this car really needs extra support, especially with the lower relative spring rates of springs vs coilovers. They're easy to drive and commonly used for both track and autocrossers.

Eibach Pro kit are okay too, but ours have a little more focus on performance.

- Andrew

[RToyo86]

How durable are the OEM top mounts?

I have a set of B6s on order and plan to use OEM top mounts; mine have 75,000km on them. Weighing replacing them new or maybe just refresh with new spring insulators. Is that even nessessary?

[churchx]

If bearing hasn't failed and started to bind, and if there are no noticeable tear marks in rubber "body", no need to replace "by mileage". Replace, once one or another happens.
As to how much they last .. different people drive differently and on different roads. Mileage of parts obviously also differs.
I'd think of getting Pedders eccentric topmounts at same time as installing mentioned B6s though, to up possible negative range with just using camberbolts, not for reason of OE topmounts not working.

[RToyo86]

I have considered pedders top mounts. They have been backordered from the manufacturer for a while. I sent them an email about when they'll be available again.

I currently run SPC bottom and crash bolts up top. That would alleviate the need for the crash bolt if they're available in a reasonable time line.

Edit: I got a response from peddlers, they have about a 70 day lead time before they can ship orders.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

How durable are the OEM top mounts?

I have a set of B6s on order and plan to use OEM top mounts; mine have 75,000km on them. Weighing replacing them new or maybe just refresh with new spring insulators. Is that even nessessary?

I switched mine out for camber plates at about 75k km, I would not hesitate to put them on for another 75k km. They're designed to last 'the life of the car', I'd be surprised if they were not in good condition at 300k km street driving unless you're rally racing on the weekends or have 100k km of track use.

[gpvecchi]

I was thinking... A good coilover is perfectly matched to work with the chassis, but what happens if I add bracing around?
I mean, the suspensions are matched with a chassis that flex, so it acts like a spring. With bracing I change that spring...

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by gpvecchi

I was thinking... A good coilover is perfectly matched to work with the chassis

Making some generous assumptions there with regards to rigidity. A more rigid chassis will always be a benefit as any flex in the chassis will adversely affect consistency of the alignment when under load.


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