01-01-2021, 08:50 AM | #603 | |
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I'm planning to order the Ohlins kit and I'm reading here and there about the coilover kit.
I'm not native English speaker so I need an extra hand to understand if this is an issue that I need to check or to order.somerthing to fix it. My car is full stock and I was thinking to use camber bolts to save some money (and later order the top hats if needed, probably the Raceseng ones) and rear LCA with stock mount. Regards, Quote:
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01-01-2021, 10:14 AM | #604 |
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This thread covers several topics and I can only speak of my own experience owning these coil overs with a substantially modified suspension. When paired with a larger front sway bar and thick end links like those made by Whiteline, the end links are likely to contact the coil over causing an eventual failure of the bracket which attaches the link to the coil over (the sway bar is essentially disconnected after the bracket shears off from stress created). It’s hard to explain in writing the mechanics of that, but I can see the results quite clearly...
When I spoke to the technician or support person at Öhlins USA, he said the solution was to use an OE sized front end link to avoid that contact under load. As I did not yet try different end links (mine are still the Whiteline ones), I don’t know if Hotchkiss or OE truly fix my problem.
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14 Lotus Evora S 06 BMW Z4M Roadster, 20 M850 Last edited by Molez93; 01-01-2021 at 11:59 AM. Reason: Clarification about the contact point |
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01-01-2021, 11:09 AM | #605 | |
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Thank you for your quick answer.
So your issue is not with the oem parts, thank you I was wondering if I need to order or check anything to avoid that with my oem suspension parts. Sorry for not understanding the issue correctly. Quote:
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01-24-2021, 11:52 PM | #606 |
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Has anyone experienced end link interference with OEM anti-roll bars?
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06-16-2021, 07:31 PM | #607 |
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You guys need to have spacers on the endlink to ensure it clears under full lock. I broke a set of whitelines, almost broke my hotchkis but after buying some spacers, I was able to clear it and ever since then, no endlinks were destroyed
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06-18-2021, 11:39 PM | #608 |
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So are we coming to the conclusion that the Ohlin sway bar link attachment points are not to blame for breakage with larger sway bars?
And that the "interference" of end links without spacers or incorrect spacers installed, ultimately put the stress on the Ohlin sway bar link attachment points until they break? (I posted another thread to see if there is anyone who has used ONLY STOCK endlinks (and supplied Ohlin spacer) with their larger upgraded sway bar. Hopefully we'll get some feedback if there are issues related to the size or shape of the sway bar, since end links are a constant.) |
06-19-2021, 03:10 AM | #609 |
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I used the spacers included with the Ohlins kit. I never broke an endlink, just the attachment brackets on the coilover. I didn't have any contact issues with the thinner Hotchkis endlinks and still broke brackets. They are just crudely bent pieces of what I believe to be low quality flat steel without any boxing for reinforcement. They might work fine for moderately sized swaybars and less aggressive driving, but I firmly believe they weren't designed to handle a one inch bar with frequent hard cornering.
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06-19-2021, 03:24 AM | #610 | |
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Quote:
Last edited by glhs386; 06-19-2021 at 03:35 AM. |
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02-28-2022, 01:21 PM | #611 |
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Hi. I just picked up a set of used Ohlins and found this thread. I need to ask some noob questions for some advice. Be gentle.
The setup is an MP20, 4k/3k springs. The PO said he was running the 4k springs in the rear, it was his daily driver. 3k up front I assume. Corner balanced by a local shop. I am not going to daily it. It may see an auto-X or two a year, maybe a track day or two a year. I'm in NJ so I need it to ride nice on the street most of the time. It doesn't need to be slammed or anything like that. I will run it just under stock ride height or whatever the Ohlins manual says. Should I find another set of 4k springs and go 4k/4k? Find a set of 5k and do a 5k/4k combo or vice versa? Any other suggestions? Does anyone have any spare Ohlins springs collecting dust and for sale? My car also already has: -TRD F/R sway bars and Whiteline end links -Sitting on TRD lowering springs/stock dampers and they are not good. -Jackson Racing SC, UEL, tune etc. I plan to run 18x8.5" square wheels, nothing stickier than a 300 TW, 245/35r18. Can I run regular factory top hats? Or do I need to get Cascam plates for up front? Back to reading this thread from back to front. Thanks
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02-28-2022, 02:15 PM | #612 |
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You can use any 60mm/2.5"/65mm diameter spring you want, it doesn't need to have an ohlins sticker on it, probably about 7" long based off memory although a half inch longer or shorter should be fine, probably safer to err shorter on these. Eibach/Hyperco/Swift springs are about $70-$80 each, often cheaper if you can find a motorsports for sale/trade locally.
For spring rates whatever works for you is what works for you, I've found this car to be relatively insensitive to spring changes, you do it when you're hunting for that last bit of grip, given the questions you're asking though I'd just follow the Ohlins manual and leave the 4k up front 3k in rear, that setup probably accounts for some amount of bumpstop use despite it not making a ton of sense in a vacuum. If it came with all the parts I believe there's a spring adapter for front/rear to mate to stock top hats, if you don't have that you may need to find it, fab it, or go aftermarket top hats designed for 60mm springs, although for a non-dailyed autox/hpde car, get dat camber bro, it's so worth it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cdb009f7c8.jpg imho good call to set it up near max ride height, the car suspension is not happy when too low. |
03-01-2022, 06:03 AM | #613 | |
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Quote:
My original new set came with a pre setup of about -20mm in ride height. I felt they worked much better when I took set them back to standard road height. (having said that, I dont know what the standard height is on the USA twins) Personaly I think the softer springs work quite well, but I dont (bitumen) track my car. |
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03-03-2022, 12:24 PM | #614 | |
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Quote:
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03-03-2022, 10:58 PM | #615 |
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I don’t recall who gave me the recommendation, but I went through Performance Shock Inc in Sonoma CA. Jayme is the name of the contact/tech/sales person who I worked with then. (I became a bit pushy or annoying at the time. Hopefully there’s no lingering hard feelings… I was a bit panicked given the schedule crunch)
OhlinUSA said they were making a CAD of the part back when they were helping me out as it wasn’t ordinarily something they kept in inventory.
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04-06-2022, 10:01 AM | #616 |
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I installed my Ohlins this past weekend. I ended up not leaving well enough alone and ordered 5k Swift springs for the rear and used the 4k that came with the Ohlins up front. I got some new Pedders tophats off the forum.
I set the pre-load on all four per the instructions while watching the final four on Sat. And got them all installed on Sunday. Ride height wise I ended up at exactly what the 4k instructions said in the front. 349mm (23") from fender lip to wheel centerline. The instructions from Ohlins are written differently for the 5k, they don't give the overall target. Just what the drop should be. I was already lowered and don't know what stock ride height was. I ended up at 597mm (23.5"). My car has whiteline end-links and TRD bars. I used the 10mm spacers up front. I did hear a knocking or something, not sure yet, need to inspect. Everything should be tight and the end-links were in good shape and not worn out or loose when I had it apart. It may not even be sway bar related, but I heard it when the suspension cycled in compression more so than rebound. First drive, the car is so much better now. My alignment is obviously off, but not enough that I can't drive it around town to let it settle. I noticed one of the front springs popping when I was parking. Should I have slathered some anti-seize on the spring seats? Or do people live with it? Or will it stop? TIA for any additional info.
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