Pulling to the Right, Rear Alignment Issue? Or something Else?

[TheFugitiveMind]

Originally Posted by churchx

Well, should work just fine for most including ones that track.
But if i may suggest, that while that extra -1.3dg front camber is obviously better then "nothing", better then rather understeer-biased OE alignment of 0dg front camber, if you do track car on regular basis, it seems insufficient for even contact patch, to not rip mostly outside of tires. Most that track twins usually go for something like -3 to -3.5dg front camber and -2.5dg rear. I also don't like uneven rear toe, that even is toe-out on right side. In left turns you may see excessive oversteer, also under floored gas, especially if with lack of grip, you may see tendency of car rear to always slip to right.

Yeah totally, if it was more of a true weekend track car I’d totally up the front camber to -2.5 but I do DD it a lot on the freeways and don’t really want to prematurely kill my tires. I see about 5-6 track days a year and I’m not really pushing It hard those days. Maybe. 7/10ths

I am also not a fan of the uneven toe in the rear, while the whiteline LCA are from SPC they didn’t come with the offset bushing for the toe, so I guess that’s as as close as the tech could get it (unless he was lazy). I work in the “industry” so I get pretty significant discounts from companies so I might do some toe links later down the line

[churchx]

TheFugitiveMind: tech definitely was lazy. Only adjustment twins suspension has in stock is toe one. Tells a bit about importance of getting toe right.
Imho error might be, as toe & camber linked a bit, for tech to be overly concentrated on dialing camber, and leaving toe whatever ended up with. I'd prefer other way around, accepting 0.3dg+/- difference in camber between sides, but preferring toe as even as possible (hopefully within 0.01dg+/-), and a bit more toe-in rear. Also might be, that within available adjustment ranges tech was tasked with to dial eg. camber that much, with which toe-adjustment range was insufficient. Again .. in this case i'd prefer maybe less camber (or more) then asked/wished, but toe right, but in future consider adjustable toe-arms, that usually offer more range then stock eccentric toe adjustment.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by TheFugitiveMind

Installed whiteline rear lower control arms and got it re aligned. Happy to report that steering wheel is centered and tracks straight. For now...



I do have the SPC crash bolts of the front (upper position) has any of you guys experienced it slipping? I had them on my 2005 WRX back in the day and they would always slip which is why I’m kinda against those and would rather have plates.

Get the peddler top plates. You won't loose any travel and get camber built in. I believe -1.5 camber. Pretty cheap but you will need a front alignment as the struts would need to come out to install

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[churchx]

jflogerzi: imho more like 0.75 extra negative camber. Then again that + camberbolts in both holes, and aprox. -3dg (nice starting point for tracked twin) should be reachable.

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by churchx

jflogerzi: imho more like 0.75 extra negative camber. Then again that + camberbolts in both holes, and aprox. -3dg (nice starting point for tracked twin) should be reachable.

They are advertised at - .75 deg, but i got about a full degree out of em. I also use the SPC cam bolts in conjunction and -2.5 is pretty much my max.


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[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

They are advertised at - .75 deg, but i got about a full degree out of em. I also use the SPC cam bolts in conjunction and -2.5 is pretty much my max.


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I was able to get about 2.4 out of the se setup. Just done remember if it was oem crash bolts or camber bolts with the peddlers

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