How to safely lift engine using hydraulic jack?

[Plumbus]

Searched everywhere, not a single thread for this. What do I need to do safely lift the engine a few inches for installing engine mounts and ace header? I removed the plastic air box, removed engine mount bolts, removed tranny bolts, and lifting on the oil pan still unloads the suspension as if the engine is connected to the chassis. Wtf?? Been here a few hours removing seized exhaust bolts so sorry if the answer is simple. Also the car is sloping back because of jack stands, not sure if relevant.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by Plumbus

Searched everywhere, not a single thread for this. What do I need to do safely lift the engine a few inches for installing engine mounts and ace header? I removed the plastic air box, removed engine mount bolts, removed tranny bolts, and lifting on the oil pan still unloads the suspension as if the engine is connected to the chassis. Wtf?? Been here a few hours removing seized exhaust bolts so sorry if the answer is simple. Also the car is sloping back because of jack stands, not sure if relevant.

Suspension will unload as the weight of the engine is removed. Just try to spread out the load on the jack so you don't damage the oil pan

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

[Plumbus]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

Suspension will unload as the weight of the engine is removed. Just try to spread out the load on the jack so you don't damage the oil pan

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

So I'm not missing anything else? I almost lifted it with the air box connected, so I don't wanna royally screw up. I'm using a rubber jack puck to protect the oil pan also.

[Tcoat]

Here.
https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal..._rm_index.html

[PulsarBeeerz]

I had to lift it some to make the spark plug job easier. Did the exact same thing as you, just kept going. The engine and trans are over 400lbs so the suspension will unload some. Just keep um, jacking it... The engine will come up a good 3-4 inches before reaching the trans tunnel. I popped off the any strut tower bracing as well.

[Ultramaroon]

People will argue that it's ok to jack at the oil pan but it's pretty sketch. It's a point load way below the engine's mass center. The engine can easily rotate when raised from the mounts. At least be wary of that. Not judging. I'd do it again in a pinch, but...


Here's another nice place to study lifting the engine - spark plug replacement

[Turdinator]

I would have left the transmission mounts in place due to the same concerns as Ultramaroon. That would reduce the likelihood of any roll to the sides and acted as a pivot point. That aside, engine mounts and the connection between overpipe and front pipe is all that really should be needed for a couple of inches. You aren't hitting a strut brace or anything are you?

[Plumbus]

Hey guys, THANKS so much for all the helpful advice. Like some people suggested, I just had to keep going. The engine mounts binded together with the subframe for the first inch or two due to age, but soon unstuck and the engine lifted without problem. For future reference, all I had to remove was the two large tranny mount bolts below the rear mounting member, the two large engine mount bolts, the front pipe (assembly or overpipe-to-FP bolts), the air box, and in my case the grimmspeed strut bar.

As far as jacking from the oil pan, I remember reading somewhere that the oil pan is the "official" jacking point for the engine, but don't quote me on that. I used a piece of 2x4 and a rubber jack puck on top to get more clearance and the oil pan did not even get a single scuff. Distributing load is paramount, but I did not feel uneasy jacking from it. It was all the stuff attached to the engine that made me nervous.

Your replies and this thread right here confirmed I was clear to go.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114993

Thanks again fellas.