WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR BRZ TODAY?

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by Dzmitry

Should have no issues with speed bumps. Stock ground clearance is 4.9" on the tS which comes with STI lowering springs and front lip. Not exactly sure how that's true as the stock BRZ comes with the same ground clearance. But the lip doesn't actually do much lowering, as the bottom of it aligns with the bottom of the skid plate. STI springs only lower the car about 10mm. So you're still looking at over 4" ground clearance likely.

As you said the ground clearance is measured in a different area. Not in the front area. Well, check how many members scrapped their STI lip. It depends also on specific roads or if you have to get in or out a garage ramp. I suppose most issues come not with the tS springs, but with more aggressive lowering springs. The tS springs as you said lower the car only 10mm, which is very minimal for most of user tastes.

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

As you said the ground clearance is measured in a different area. Not in the front area. Well, check how many members scrapped their STI lip. It depends also on specific roads or if you have to get in or out a garage ramp. I suppose most issues come not with the tS springs, but with more aggressive lowering springs. The tS springs as you said lower the car only 10mm, which is very minimal for most of user tastes.

Are STI springs something you're considering? I know you mentioned an OEM+ build. I personally see the STI lip as a guard, too. Sure it scrapes, but it doesn't scrape the actual bumper so in the end, I don't mind. Plus the lip is easier to sand and buff.

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by weederr33

Are STI springs something you're considering? I know you mentioned an OEM+ build. I personally see the STI lip as a guard, too. Sure it scrapes, but it doesn't scrape the actual bumper so in the end, I don't mind. Plus the lip is easier to sand and buff.

I have the STI springs in my old car, but again the lowering was mild in the range of 15mm. I am done with mods .. I have to worry about other things currently.

[Dzmitry]

Originally Posted by weederr33

Are STI springs something you're considering? I know you mentioned an OEM+ build. I personally see the STI lip as a guard, too. Sure it scrapes, but it doesn't scrape the actual bumper so in the end, I don't mind. Plus the lip is easier to sand and buff.

Yes, I actually find this quite useful. I have the HT Autos front lip which is even more aggressive but I have not experienced any problems with it for the most part when it comes to scraping. But the two or three times I've bumped into the parking guard in front of me or scraped, the lip has helped keep the front bumper from getting damaged. The HT Autos lip is a little more of a rugged design though, which I like for exactly that reason, as it still looks brand new. The STI lip has more of a gloss to it, so scraping it would probably make the damage more prominent.

[JD001]

Originally Posted by Stephen W.

Not that my car will ever see snow but, after last year's fiasco with trying to boost start the wife's car with my tS I thought I'd better be ready.
I found a used set of forged TRD wheels off of a FR-S Release Series 2.0 with snows already mounted. The clear coat is coming off but they look good from a distance.
Anyway, they're more for protection of the summers than actual winter use.

Autumn is such a wonderful season.. So colourful..

[JAS4]

Today I installed STI JDM flexible v-bars and draw stiffener. Me likey so much!

[gen3v8]

Fitted some PSR UEL Headers and O/pipe.

[therealstoly]

Metallurgically speaking, I'm curious as to the thought process behind wrapping the header and, in addition to that and as a follow-up, the five 'sun spots' you obviously didn't wrap with intent.

[Dzmitry]

Originally Posted by therealstoly

Metallurgically speaking, I'm curious as to the thought process behind wrapping the header and, in addition to that and as a follow-up, the five 'sun spots' you obviously didn't wrap with intent.

No expert here, but wrapping the header is simply for preventing heat dissipation and improving heat insulation to increase exhaust flow. In the case of leaving the open spots, as far as I know, this is exactly what you DON'T want to do as you will allow water to get caught and buildup in the wrap and form rust and that sort? Haven't read on this stuff in a while, but that is the general idea I believe.

[gen3v8]

Originally Posted by Dzmitry

No expert here, but wrapping the header is simply for preventing heat dissipation and improving heat insulation to increase exhaust flow. In the case of leaving the open spots, as far as I know, this is exactly what you DON'T want to do as you will allow water to get caught and buildup in the wrap and form rust and that sort? Haven't read on this stuff in a while, but that is the general idea I believe.

All of the above, so I believe? With the holes rust bit not quite right. The wrap is thick woven heat resistant material, it will absorb and hold moisture(Capillary action?) anyway it does when cold and will gather salt also. The chances of them getting wet before being hot enough to dry is slim also no salted roads around here and the`re Stainless.

[pope]

BRZ tucked away for a long winter nap.

Might get a car capsule though. Still debating the cost/benefit.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Dzmitry

No expert here, but wrapping the header is simply for preventing heat dissipation and improving heat insulation to increase exhaust flow. In the case of leaving the open spots, as far as I know, this is exactly what you DON'T want to do as you will allow water to get caught and buildup in the wrap and form rust and that sort? Haven't read on this stuff in a while, but that is the general idea I believe.

That is what they claim, the main benefit is protecting the rest of the engine bay from heat soak.

Most 300 series stainless steels will rust. Heating it hot enough pushes the carbon out to the surface making it susceptible to corrosion. It is called heat sensitization. It is accelerated even more if you push it past it's transition temperature. There is also passivation baths of the part that can be done which reduces the free irons in the surface which will propagate more corrosion if untreated.

[Ernest72]

Originally Posted by pope

BRZ tucked away for a long winter nap.

Might get a car capsule though. Still debating the cost/benefit.

You can drive that in the winter. Get some snows and have fun.

[pope]

Originally Posted by Ernest72

You can drive that in the winter. Get some snows and have fun.

I could, but I’d rather keep the car nice and not deal with rust restoration in a couple years. I have no intention of this Texas sourced car ever seeing the northern devil (road salt).