Weederr's Series.Yellowbird tS

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by weederr33

It is very over priced! I'm sure you could contact Cusco directly and ask for replacement adapters. Otherwise, you may have to see if someone can CNC a pair for you.

Actually, you can find them a number of places. I ordered a pair of 40mm anodized aluminum water temp sensor adapters for just under $10 each.

I'm looking forward to your report on how well the set up works.

thanks for the help.

[tweedbean]

Love following the progress on this, such a great colour

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by weederr33

So I bought the Cusco Oil Cooler a few months back but had not had time to install it and all of the time consuming aspects of burping the coolant.
I don't foresee it being any better than the throttle body method, but hey, I'm stuck at home, why not do it. Should be putting the ACE CS400 on later in the week!

Those T connectors do not give me any confidence that there will be sufficient coolant flow through the cooler. Do you see any temperature difference between the coolant inlet and outlet of the coil?

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by mrg666

Those T connectors do not give me any confidence that there will be sufficient coolant flow through the cooler. Do you see any temperature difference between the coolant inlet and outlet of the coil?

Why do you feel that way? And what do you mean difference b/t the inlet and outlet? Such as the temp going in and coming out? If so, I have not measured that.

Compared to the throttle body method I'd say it's an improvement. It warms up just as quickly but cools a bit better. It has not been very hot lately so I have yet to see the temps get above 225. Summer will be the real test. I'll be sure to use the torque app to measure the temps. It's a good solution to my NA set up, but not worth comparing to an A2O cooler nor even the Jackson Racing DROC.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by weederr33

Why do you feel that way? And what do you mean difference b/t the inlet and outlet? Such as the temp going in and coming out? If so, I have not measured that.

Compared to the throttle body method I'd say it's an improvement. It warms up just as quickly but cools a bit better. It has not been very hot lately so I have yet to see the temps get above 225. Summer will be the real test. I'll be sure to use the torque app to measure the temps. It's a good solution to my NA set up, but not worth comparing to an A2O cooler nor even the Jackson Racing DROC.

Cusco piping taps on the inlet and outlet of the radiator, as much as I can see. If this is true, the water pump is not on the flow path through the coil and it will not be forcing coolant through the coil. That was the reason. I could be wrong though.

When the engine is warming up, before the temperature is fully regulated, there should be some temperature difference between the inlet and outlet of coil, if there is flow, I thought. At least that is my experience with the STI cooler I have.

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by mrg666

Cusco piping taps on the inlet and outlet of the radiator, as much as I can see. If this is true, the water pump is not on the flow path through the coil and it will not be forcing coolant through the coil. That was the reason. I could be wrong though.

When the engine is warming up, before the temperature is fully regulated, there should be some temperature difference between the inlet and outlet of coil, if there is flow, I thought. At least that is my experience with the STI cooler I have.

Ah gotcha. Yeah I cannot answer that fully. The only engineering aspect I have knowledge of is human biomechanics lol. I don't have a way to measure the inlet and outlet temperatures, but I don't see how it would not force coolant through as the fluid will find a way to flow into the various channels. Thereby it will have circulation. The only way I can truly compare is via temperature regulation of the two methods I had. But I will keep tabs on how it performs during the summer here.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by weederr33

Ah gotcha. Yeah I cannot answer that fully. The only engineering aspect I have knowledge of is human biomechanics lol. I don't have a way to measure the inlet and outlet temperatures, but I don't see how it would not force coolant through as the fluid will find a way to flow into the various channels. Thereby it will have circulation. The only way I can truly compare is via temperature regulation of the two methods I had. But I will keep tabs on how it performs during the summer here.

I will be curious to see your update. Enjoy your beautiful car!

[Capt Spaulding]

Originally Posted by weederr33

Ah gotcha. Yeah I cannot answer that fully. The only engineering aspect I have knowledge of is human biomechanics lol. I don't have a way to measure the inlet and outlet temperatures, but I don't see how it would not force coolant through as the fluid will find a way to flow into the various channels. Thereby it will have circulation. The only way I can truly compare is via temperature regulation of the two methods I had. But I will keep tabs on how it performs during the summer here.

One of my concerns with plumbing it using the radiator hose method is that, when the thermostat is closed, there should not be flow through the radiator hoses. Instead, it's shunted to a close loop within the block and through the heater hoses. If this is correct, radiator hoses and hence the oil cooler wont see any water flow until the thermostat starts to open.

After that I'm not sure. On one hand the feed hose taps into the lower radiator hose which should be the coolest place in the system. On the other hand it's on the suction side of the water pump which may very well limit the water flow through the cooler. It depends on the pressure differential between the two radiator hoses and I haven't a clue how to think that through.

Personally, I'm all over the place on this. After giving this some thought (and buying a couple of radiator hose adapters) I'm starting to lean more toward using the method suggested in the original DIY. I have the parts, it just strikes me as a pain in the ass to do all that and, being a lazy sort, I gravitate toward the easiest looking solution.

The original approach taps into the water galley just downstream of the water pump, runs water through the cooler and then dumps it into the plumbing going to (I think) the heater core. It has the advantage of getting feed water from the high pressure side of the pump as well as being a part of the bypass loop that flows water when the thermostat is closed.

OK - my head officially hurts. Good luck to all of us. My hope is one of the MEs here who does fluid and thermo - dynamics will jump in.

[weederr33]

Upcoming plans for the summer:

repaint front bumper

clear bra front bumper

paint correction & ceramic coating

[weederr33]

Just a little bit of HKS bling

[weederr33]

Did a dyno this morning at a local place called Torqqe Performance!
CS400, HKS R-Spec high flow cat frontpipe, oem midpipe, TRD muffler; HKS intake duct and drop in filter. I was a little disappointed in the output, but still, good to know what it's putting down!

[LancePower]

The STi Pads are made for the Brembos?

Front and Rear?

Where did you get them?

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by LancePower

The STi Pads are made for the Brembos?

Front and Rear?

Where did you get them?

Japanparts.com

F - ST262964S020
R - ST262964S030

I only have the fronts. While they grip great, damn can they get squeaky. I'm half tempted to put oem pads back in because it's quite annoying.

[LancePower]

Thanks for the info and feedback.