WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR FRS TODAY?

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

Very nice! I wish the 860 was offered in asphalt grey when I was looking. What front lip is that and where did you get it from if you don't mind me asking?

Thanks.
Link is here for the lip.



Also had my alignment done. With SPC camber bolts the driver side would only adjust to -1.1° from 0° while the passenger went all the way to -1.9° from -.7°. Dialed back the passenger to match.
The rears matched at -2.3° with no camber adjustment.

Kind of disappointed I didn't get more camber on the left. The tech wasn't familiar with that style bolt. Maybe the washer was the issue.

[RayRay88]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

Thanks.
Link is here for the lip.



Also had my alignment done. With SPC camber bolts the driver side would only adjust to -1.1° from 0° while the passenger went all the way to -1.9° from -.7°. Dialed back the passenger to match.
The rears matched at -2.3° with no camber adjustment.

Kind of disappointed I didn't get more camber on the left. The tech wasn't familiar with that style bolt. Maybe the washer was the issue.

Thanks!

Was this with the 81305 lower bolt? Did you take the bottom bolt and use it in the top as a crash bolt? I intend on doing that this weekend.

[obscene_gesture]

Updated from a really old OFT stage 1 tune to version 4.03 and then installed the TRD CAI (I had a TRD drop-in before). So yeah, it's pretty hard to tell how each change contributed to performance, since I did them on the same day. Overall, though, the butt dyno detected no conclusive change in performance, although the driving experience was still quite pleasant.

The engine bay was still a dirty mess, so I didn't bother taking a picture.

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

Thanks!

Was this with the 81305 lower bolt? Did you take the bottom bolt and use it in the top as a crash bolt? I intend on doing that this weekend.

I didn't opt to use the crash bolt. I didn't think I'd need it to get -1.5°. -1.8° was ideal.

[arxm]

hey guys i got a super simple question but im confused, ive got h11 and 9005 bulbs for my high/low beams and drl, right now theyre the yellow halogens. Ive found h11 and 9005 led bulbs with a lower rated wattage. Ive heard some people saying it wont work even though as far as i know, its the same bulb and there should be no reason it wont work. Basically I just want to know if the led's will work. for reference its these ones (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...JAFJ2R5R&psc=1 , https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...JAFJ2R5R&psc=1

[Silviacrazed]

Originally Posted by obscene_gesture

Updated the taillights on my '15 to the '17+ OEMs. They look a lot nicer than I expected.

Was the second thing I did to my FRS when I bought it a couple of weeks ago. 100000% worth it. They look a lot better and I like the extra output. Nice choice!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[DarkSunrise]

Morning drive through the canyons with a friend with an S2000. FR-S felt great - it's such a fun car out there.

[obscene_gesture]

Originally Posted by arxm

hey guys i got a super simple question but im confused, ive got h11 and 9005 bulbs for my high/low beams and drl, right now theyre the yellow halogens. Ive found h11 and 9005 led bulbs with a lower rated wattage. Ive heard some people saying it wont work even though as far as i know, its the same bulb and there should be no reason it wont work. Basically I just want to know if the led's will work. for reference its these ones (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...JAFJ2R5R&psc=1 , https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...JAFJ2R5R&psc=1

Unless someone's actually used it in the headlight that you have, it's a bit hard to tell. Even if a bulb is supposedly an H11 or 9005, LED bulbs often have heatsinks and possibly even fans. This is because LEDs degrade in brightness and change color temperature over time and one of the biggest factors is heat. The extra cooling components might cause the bulb to not fit in your headlight.

I emailed a vendor a couple of weeks ago about a set of LED bulbs I was interested in, and they basically said they couldn't be 100% sure because they hadn't worked on an FR-S before. It was further complicated by the fact that I have aftermarket headlights.

[dhuang]

Watched her leave.

Thanks FT86Club for being an excellent time waster for the past 8 years.
And the brilliant FR-S / 86 / BRZ platform playing a part in my life for 6 years and 134k memorable miles.

[arxm]

Originally Posted by obscene_gesture

Unless someone's actually used it in the headlight that you have, it's a bit hard to tell. Even if a bulb is supposedly an H11 or 9005, LED bulbs often have heatsinks and possibly even fans. This is because LEDs degrade in brightness and change color temperature over time and one of the biggest factors is heat. The extra cooling components might cause the bulb to not fit in your headlight.

I emailed a vendor a couple of weeks ago about a set of LED bulbs I was interested in, and they basically said they couldn't be 100% sure because they hadn't worked on an FR-S before. It was further complicated by the fact that I have aftermarket headlights.

so i just ended up buying them, they were plug and play, no issues, if anybody wants to buy leds I recommend those in terms of build obviously i haven't tested durability lol

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by dhuang

Watched her leave.

Thanks FT86Club for being an excellent time waster for the past 8 years.
And the brilliant FR-S / 86 / BRZ platform playing a part in my life for 6 years and 134k memorable miles.

NOOOOOOOO

[alex87f]

Had a local shop modify the backbox I ordered, as the right-hand tip was sticking out by almost an inch. 30 bucks, but I (or rather, my OCD) think it was worth it.

Before:


After:


End result:


Also, used JB Weld hi temp paste to try and patch an exhaust leak at the flange between midpipe and silencer. Not a pretty repair, but the midpipe flange is shot. Beats buying a new midpipe, provided that it works.

[Compelica]

Redone the alignment and rotated tyres after a year driving around in the manufacturer's stock setting.

Front negative camber from 0 degs to 2 degs, 1.5 on driver side to compensate for driver weight.
No change to front toe (0 degs)

Rear toe in from 0mm to 2mm.
Camber left unchanged, at about -1.5 degs.

Mid turns feel slightly stable in the rear now. With the VSC acting as the threshold I could take the same turn at the same speed without stability control kicking in.

More driving to do in due time.

[arxm]

got wheels