Clutch for Boosted 86

[AldoRaine]

Hello to all!
I’m interested in possibly upgrading my clutch, as I’ve spoken to a few people making the power I aspire to reach (~280whp, ~220-230wtq), and I’ve gotten mixed responses.

Some have stated they made 280+whp and 230+wtq and stayed stock clutch for 36k miles, no slipping, sold the car without ever having to upgrade/replace clutch.

Others have stated they were slipping between 5k-7k rpm at ~260whp ~215wtq.

All of the people I spoke to were low miles (less than 40k on their car), all supercharged too. I’m not sure if it’s just the way people drive or just a coin toss on how your clutch handles it to be honest.

So anyways. I’m interested in potentially upgrading my clutch. A few I’ve had my eye on are the Southbend (stage 2 or stage 3), and the ACT XT street with normal weight flywheel (SB7-xtss). Both have been recommended to me. The ACT seems to be a better deal for the money? I wouldn’t know I haven’t driven a car with either. Looking for some responses from people who have these upgraded clutches to chime in.

I’m also interested in upgrading the fork and pivot to verus (only if necessary). And wondering what kind of experiences people have had with this as well.

This car is my daily, I don’t track it, occasional “spirited” driving only. 29k on the dash. Only has a simple header tune right now and has for about 10k miles. Going FI in the near future.

I really don’t want to have to upgrade the clutch and the other components right away unless it’s a necessity, (please don’t take a dump on this post because I’m hesitant to dump hundreds into a clutch I’m unsure is necessary) and from what I’ve been told, some people say it’s a necessity, some say it’s really not. But if I need to I’d like to know what’s tried and true by others. Thanks guys.

[weederr33]

South Bend Clutch Stage 2 "daily"

[HaXx]

i think you should watch from 8:30 on...
when your clutch cant handle the torque , its not like there is a catastrophic failure, it just simply slips. that doesnt mean your clutch is ruined, it just wears fast when it slips. but you could drive around all day with an under rated clutch, it will just slip when you put the power down.

moral of the story, i would wait to see if the clutch slips, and if it does, then think about upgrading it, but i wouldnt go spending a ton of money preemptively assuming its not going to work.
also, if ur tracking and spend your time in the top 2/3rd of the rpm range, then you will be slipping constantly, if your driving around getting groceries, and it slips once a month while u pull onto the highway, no big deal. fwiw i have 262/192lb s/c oem clutch. you may know this, but our clutch is rated to 250ftlb, clutches are rated by torque, torque makes clutches slip, not hp.

[AldoRaine]

I understand it’s not catastrophic failure, and that’s why I’m not TOO worried about doing a clutch right now. But I’d rather get ahead of it and just both have it slip. And make sure my research is done before I slip and it’s time to upgrade. And yes of course it’s based upon torque not horsepower. I just included whp #’s in there just because. I didn’t know it was rated for 250 ftlb of torque, I’m assuming this measurement isn’t wheel tq?

[ls1ac]

Its not broke do not pre-fix. If and when its gone fix it. A lot has to do with how you drive.

[jason_456788]

Changing clutch fork makes my clutch so much lighter I can tell you that. Well it depends on what clutch fork you gettin.

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[DarkPira7e]

I have the Exedy stage 1 clutch. Held 330whp and 260wtq for about 2k miles before my engine went. I don't think the clutch fork and pivot are necessary unless you have something like the southbend or ACT pressure plates that hold over 300wtq. Don't jab the clutch pedal and don't hold the pedal down for excessive periods of time and it should last

Do not waste your time on the stock clutch. If it isn't slipping for someone at Nealy 220wtq, it will soon.

[Chuckls]

My SB Stg2 Daily slips on E50. It was highly recommended. Would go ACT or Stg3 next time.

[Jasten]

I guess for reference, i got FI with the JRSC around ~30k mi, like you this car is my daily with occasional spirited driving/highway pulls, no track days. While i did experience slipping here and there the only reason i upgraded my clutch was because my throwout bearing failed first around 40k mi later (around 70k mi). I otherwise would have just kept driving on stock clutch. I went ahead and upgraded the clutch with a SB stage 2 daily (rated 315ft/lbs) as well as the clutch fork/pivot with the verus forged. I kept stock flywheel, just had it resurfaced as needed. i'm about 5k mi in on the new clutch and i've had no complaints so far.

[Sapphireho]

I've had both you mention. I would NOT put an ACT back in my car unless it was a track only car. Not street friendly.

[Drifter X]

I had ACT on a B16A and a SR20DET both were their “street” clutches.... don’t care for them.


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[HaXx]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

I've had both you mention. I would NOT put an ACT back in my car unless it was a track only car. Not street friendly.

What about the act xt did u hate, noise and pedal feel?

[stacyu18]

i just installed a ACT street stage 2 yesterday in my 2014 brz with new fork and pivot it is very touchy and will take a lot of getting use to. the main reason i went with ACT is that the kit come with a new bearing and fly wheel where as the south bend it does not there was a huge difference in weight between the fly wheels.