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Old 04-19-2020, 10:44 AM   #15
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If it got that hot there's a chance it liquified the grease in the hub bearings also. Looks like you've got your hands full with some fun service work in your future.
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Old 04-19-2020, 12:00 PM   #16
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Is the parking brake handle down?
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well right now since the car is parked, its up. why
i see now you're assuming it's the disc caliper that's the problem. tcoats line of questioning is that it very possibly could be the drum e-brake causing your problems.

when i said you need to take it apart to figure it out, my intention was that you were checking both the caliper and e-brake mechanisms.


also, drilled rotors are nothing but a money grab. slotted rotors offer minor benefits at the cost of increased dusting. if the extra dust is a concern, standard rotor blanks are your best option.
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Old 04-20-2020, 09:46 PM   #17
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We really have drum e brakes? Damn my 93 Lincoln Mark VIII had trick pistons that did that.


Just about to change her oil for the first time. She will get Royal Purple for her 5000K oil change.
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Old 04-20-2020, 10:43 PM   #18
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Its the parking brake calipers and drum. I had my rear brakes starting to make the sound when they are wearing out. I had my local mechanic check my brakes out and the right rear were wearing out . So I had him replace the rears, The fronts were ok. When removing the right rear parking brake drum, the drum was stuck over parking brake calipers he used bolts to back off the drum but it wasn't coming off easy. he loosened the caliper adjuster wheel but still stuck over the calipers. With little coercion with wood block and hammer it came off. he cleaned & lubes the drum and calipers and back off the calipers more when installing the drum. The parking brake drum made noises after installment. So I took it back and he adjusted more. It helped a lot. The parking brake calipers were still sticking little but I drove more and used the parking brake as usual, they finally acted normal.the calipers stopped sticking. The left side was ok. Hopefully this helps.
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Old 04-20-2020, 10:46 PM   #19
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We really have drum e brakes? Damn my 93 Lincoln Mark VIII had trick pistons that did that.


Just about to change her oil for the first time. She will get Royal Purple for her 5000K oil change.
much simpler to implement. you're driving a $30k car, not a $300k car...
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Old 04-21-2020, 11:34 AM   #20
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much simpler to implement. you're driving a $30k car, not a $300k car...
Its actually not. A piston that provides a lock, is far simpler than an extra brake system. I think the reason is that a piston lock is not used as the e-brake, is that's its mostly to lock up the back for various reasons, and a drum does that very well.
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Old 04-21-2020, 12:19 PM   #21
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Its actually not. A piston that provides a lock, is far simpler than an extra brake system. I think the reason is that a piston lock is not used as the e-brake, is that's its mostly to lock up the back for various reasons, and a drum does that very well.
Simpler in the sense that there are less moving parts with a piston setup, yes...but more complex given you now have to run hydraulics to the piston, or come up with a different way to activate it. Drum ebrakes have been around for decades, the design works and and I would expect as much on a car costing $30k.
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Old 04-23-2020, 01:08 AM   #22
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i see now you're assuming it's the disc caliper that's the problem. tcoats line of questioning is that it very possibly could be the drum e-brake causing your problems.

when i said you need to take it apart to figure it out, my intention was that you were checking both the caliper and e-brake mechanisms.


also, drilled rotors are nothing but a money grab. slotted rotors offer minor benefits at the cost of increased dusting. if the extra dust is a concern, standard rotor blanks are your best option.

well a mechanic checked it out and indeed the caliper seized. i have to replace the caliper, pad, and rotor.

and i have no idea how this happened. i have brake fluid still. i wasnt driving with the ebrake up. so it is what it is.

and yeah i guess your right i could go back to solid rotors. but my front rotors are drilled (stoptech) and i never had any problems with those. i've only had issues with the drilled and slotted ones (the one that seized) from Hawk. I will never buy that brand again.
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Old 04-23-2020, 06:50 PM   #23
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drilled rotors work on the concept that under very extreme, repeated braking, hot gasses can potentially form between the pad and disc, which will prevent the pad from making contact with the disc, which would prevent you from stopping.

the reality is that this condition is only present under racing conditions, after many, many laps. if you're still running the stock brake fluid, or a comparable temperature range fluid, it's physically impossible to even heat the pad/disc up enough to get that far. the fluid will boil first, and you'll loose braking performance with air in the lines instead.

that is specifically why drilled rotors are a waste in the majority of cases.
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Old 04-24-2020, 11:58 AM   #24
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drilled rotors work on the concept that under very extreme, repeated braking, hot gasses can potentially form between the pad and disc, which will prevent the pad from making contact with the disc, which would prevent you from stopping.

the reality is that this condition is only present under racing conditions, after many, many laps. if you're still running the stock brake fluid, or a comparable temperature range fluid, it's physically impossible to even heat the pad/disc up enough to get that far. the fluid will boil first, and you'll loose braking performance with air in the lines instead.

that is specifically why drilled rotors are a waste in the majority of cases.
I'd also add that nowadays brake pad compounds are mostly metallic and/or ceramic and do not off gas as much (if at all) as organic compounds. Drilled/slotted rotors were popular when the majority of pads were still organic. They don't provide any real benefit with today's pad compounds except for looks (which is debatable).
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