Random Thoughts - Part Deux [NO POLITICS]

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

So, who are you pissing off that isn't winning?

Both the other guys in Idaho that play the machines.

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Both the other guys in Idaho that play the machines.

I sure hope it stays that way. I like having no crowds.

[p1l0t]

I feel bad when I have to shove an old lady just to get a machine.

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[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by p1l0t

I feel bad when I have to shove an old lady just to get a machine.

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Then you have to move her oxygen tank.

[p1l0t]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

Then you have to move her oxygen tank.

I sell that stuff at the bar to the millennials

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[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Sapphireho

I sure hope it stays that way. I like having no crowds.

Just watch the news for the headline "State Lottery Somehow Losing Money"

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by ls1ac

Ok each heating panel is 13 ohms times two (series) 26 ohms. Two sets per side. 480 divided by 26 is about 18, times two sets (parallel) is 36. both sides come together at the relay so times two is 72 when cold, as they heat up usually the resistance increases.




Second part.
If the panels short then full voltage is through one panel instead of one half. if it opens (more normal) then only the total amps will drop, all other panels will still act as normal.

Thank you

That's what I thought. I am more of a low voltage DC controls guy, and even then just barely

[spike021]

Sooo I just got back home with my car in hand.

Here are the deets.

Today they did a leak down test, which supposedly checked out. On the receipt I got for the work though, it says something about cylinder 3 having “3% leak”. Is that a safe amount?

Next, the tech supposedly found a kink in the fuel line part of the FF kit. Thing is, I never noticed it before... but it’s totally noticeable.

So what happened was they disconnected the fuel line from the FF kit (kept it mounted in the engine bay but that’s all), put fuel line back to factory connections. Did a test drive. No more misfire or CEL.

So they basically blamed the kink in the line.

I’m not sure how it would be at fault except maybe it created a partial blockage and if any gunk got trapped there maybe it would’ve caused more issues? But the misfire and rough idle happened pretty much only below 2k rpm.

@Ultramaroon / @Tcoat / @humfrz I realize I’m talking out of my ass but does that theory sound at all possible?

Problem is like I said before I never noticed it before. But maybe I didn’t realize what I was looking at was a kink at the time?

But, if this has been there the whole time then... maybe this caused the issue from the beginning?

Not sure why the bad misfire and cel would’ve stopped with the tune flashed back to stock and headers removed in October till now though.. unless my theory is correct and the problem kept building up somehow.

I need to check if I have any photos since it was originally installed to see if the kink was always there.

[Lantanafrs2]

3 percent leakage is okay.

[Lantanafrs2]

Its actually damn good

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

3 percent leakage is okay.

Yep, that would be within experimental error.


humfrz

[Ultramaroon]

Kinked line has a low but significant risk of failing (cracking). Blaming it for your engine trouble is complete bullshit.

[spike021]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Kinked line has a low but significant risk of failing (cracking) but blaming it for your engine trouble is complete bullshit.

That’s sort of along the lines of what I figured. I don’t really know what else to do except wait for the CEL and misfires to come back (hopefully not).

Honestly dealer wasn’t as helpful as I was hoping. Originally I figured whatever they should be able to test stuff thoroughly but I feel like they just sort of jumped to the first wrong thing.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

@Ultramaroon @soundman98

Alright I know there are people that are way smarter then me on this, and well, in general

Each one of these heating panels is about 2100 watts and pulls 4.2-4.5amps. On leg one I am pulling about 36 amps in this zone. The manufacturer says it should be 55-60. I don’t see how the heck that’s possible.

He also says if I loose some panels it will put more load on the others. But from my understanding the panel can only draw what it can draw regardless of what the other panels are doing.

Am I crazy here?

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Voltage is 480. Resistance is 13ohms per panel. I've measured 36 amps per leg, 4.4 at each individual panel.

this sounds correct by my math. i don't see how it could draw 55-60A without more heating panels in the circuit. my calculation for 8 2100w heating panels in a 480v circuit puts estimated draw at 36A--almost exactly what you're getting.

at 4.4A each, it would need 14 panels to hit that magical 60A mark. which almost sounds to me like he's referencing the wrong model heater...

is there a spec sheet for the coils that show the active panel resistance values?