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Old 12-30-2019, 09:48 PM   #21477
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Got 3D Maxpider floor mats. I like them quite a bit

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Old 12-31-2019, 01:13 AM   #21478
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Got 3D Maxpider floor mats. I like them quite a bit
That 3D thingy pops right off. It leaves a very tiny hole, or 2 can't remember exactly but, you can't see it/them.
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Old 12-31-2019, 02:35 AM   #21479
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Finally got them. Do not know why I did wait so long!





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Old 01-01-2020, 10:37 PM   #21480
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Installed hood struts and replaced both front wheel hubs.
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Old 01-01-2020, 10:44 PM   #21481
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Installed hood struts and replaced both front wheel hubs.


Do you mind sharing the brand name?
I want the the grimmspeed ones. Once the are on sale any place, will get them.


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Old 01-01-2020, 11:08 PM   #21482
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Do you mind sharing the brand name?
I want the the grimmspeed ones. Once the are on sale any place, will get them.


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Honestly the Grimmspeed ones are wildly over priced. I have no name struts that work just fine (and are probably the same unit minus the sticker). Mine cost like 25% what Grimmspeeds cost. Maybe I'm wrong and they use a better quality strut but... *shrug*
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Old 01-01-2020, 11:27 PM   #21483
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Do you mind sharing the brand name?
I want the the grimmspeed ones. Once the are on sale any place, will get them.


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I got the 86Speed struts. They were on sale for Black Friday. My old ones weren’t holding up well so I got new ones when they went on sale.
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Old 01-02-2020, 12:48 AM   #21484
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Garage
Today swapped out the trans and diff fluids with new Redline fluids, tomorrow will replace front pads and rotors. Very satisfying.
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Old 01-02-2020, 01:01 PM   #21485
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I continue to ponder my throwout bearing. On cold mornings it squeals until I touch the clutch, then the sound goes away. The colder it is, the more pumps of the clutch it takes it make it shut up. I'm told it may be a lubrication issue, and as the bearing warms up it properly lubricates and that is why I only hear it during the winter. I may have had the issue last winter, but it was never this loud.

Based on other opinions it sounds like a somewhat common and not entirely dire situation. Some people say it could go in 100 miles, while others suggest that it will last forever so long as you are okay with noisy startups. As far as I can tell the clutch is in overall great shape.

I called a local shop and they said around $1200 for parts, labor, and resurfacing the flywheel.

I'm down to driving around 4K miles a year with very little clutch usage, so I'm wondering if I can keep it alive until Gen 2 hits the market.

Oh, also the Firestone Firehawk 500 tires are really, really good. I think better than the MPSS at about half the cost, especially in the cold. A little soft on initial turn-in, but still great. Got them about a month ago. No regrets.
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Old 01-02-2020, 01:16 PM   #21486
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I continue to ponder my throwout bearing. On cold mornings it squeals until I touch the clutch, then the sound goes away. The colder it is, the more pumps of the clutch it takes it make it shut up. I'm told it may be a lubrication issue, and as the bearing warms up it properly lubricates and that is why I only hear it during the winter. I may have had the issue last winter, but it was never this loud.

Based on other opinions it sounds like a somewhat common and not entirely dire situation. Some people say it could go in 100 miles, while others suggest that it will last forever so long as you are okay with noisy startups. As far as I can tell the clutch is in overall great shape.

I called a local shop and they said around $1200 for parts, labor, and resurfacing the flywheel.

I'm down to driving around 4K miles a year with very little clutch usage, so I'm wondering if I can keep it alive until Gen 2 hits the market.

Oh, also the Firestone Firehawk 500 tires are really, really good. I think better than the MPSS at about half the cost, especially in the cold. A little soft on initial turn-in, but still great. Got them about a month ago. No regrets.
Why does the flywheel need resurfaced? I don't feel like a throw out bearing replacement is a 1200$job. You just pull the transmission off. It's not THAT big of a job
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Old 01-02-2020, 02:04 PM   #21487
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I continue to ponder my throwout bearing.
[PONDER]replace nao![/PONDER]
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Old 01-02-2020, 02:33 PM   #21488
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Why does the flywheel need resurfaced? I don't feel like a throw out bearing replacement is a 1200$job. You just pull the transmission off. It's not THAT big of a job
Some people on these forums say they have paid $1600 at the dealership or down to $900 at a local shop for everything. I got right in the middle with the first place I called. The clutch assembly is about $230 vs $70 for just the TO bearing. Hearing from others, it doesn't sound like the cost of labor is much different. Pulling the transmission is the bulk of the work.

As for the flywheel, not resurfacing it will excessively wear the new clutch because the surface of the flywheel will be "rough" against the smooth surface of the clutch. You basically want them to wear evenly. I think it is less than a $100 for that work.

Still doing research. If I hadn't paid $1200 for a power steering ECU in May, I would be all over it. Since it is so high mileage, I'd rather not replace anything if I get rid of the car in 10K miles and the bearing will hold up.
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Old 01-02-2020, 03:25 PM   #21489
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Some people on these forums say they have paid $1600 at the dealership or down to $900 at a local shop for everything. I got right in the middle with the first place I called. The clutch assembly is about $230 vs $70 for just the TO bearing. Hearing from others, it doesn't sound like the cost of labor is much different. Pulling the transmission is the bulk of the work.

As for the flywheel, not resurfacing it will excessively wear the new clutch because the surface of the flywheel will be "rough" against the smooth surface of the clutch. You basically want them to wear evenly. I think it is less than a $100 for that work.

Still doing research. If I hadn't paid $1200 for a power steering ECU in May, I would be all over it. Since it is so high mileage, I'd rather not replace anything if I get rid of the car in 10K miles and the bearing will hold up.
I didn't realize you were replacing the clutch too. Definitely don't have a dealership do it though
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Old 01-02-2020, 03:30 PM   #21490
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Originally Posted by mazeroni View Post
Some people on these forums say they have paid $1600 at the dealership or down to $900 at a local shop for everything. I got right in the middle with the first place I called. The clutch assembly is about $230 vs $70 for just the TO bearing. Hearing from others, it doesn't sound like the cost of labor is much different. Pulling the transmission is the bulk of the work.

As for the flywheel, not resurfacing it will excessively wear the new clutch because the surface of the flywheel will be "rough" against the smooth surface of the clutch. You basically want them to wear evenly. I think it is less than a $100 for that work.

Still doing research. If I hadn't paid $1200 for a power steering ECU in May, I would be all over it. Since it is so high mileage, I'd rather not replace anything if I get rid of the car in 10K miles and the bearing will hold up.
When removing a clutch/pressure plate assembly, the flywheel will be smooth where the clutch rides, not rough. Similar to a brake rotor. A resurfaced flywheel will be rougher. It will have crosshatching like a new brake rotor.

The risk with not resurfacing is that if the flywheel is not perfectly flat, you will not get even contact on the clutch disk. This could result in unusual wear and operation.

Additionally, if you have a new pressure plate(which would come in the clutch kit), and don't replace or resurface the flywheel they will "grab" at different rates which could cause issues.

Generally, if you don't replace or resurface the flywheel you at least want to roughen the surface to "break the glaze", to ensure everything seats correctly. A 2" 3M sanding disk on an angled die grinder would be my recommendation.
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