Failure After J02 Recall - Discussion Threads

[WNDSRFR]

$17,000 to replace the motor on a 2013 BRZ? You gotta be kidding me. You can buy a whole 2013 car for less than that. Maybe a 2014 or 2015 or 2016. Then you won't have to worry about the recall.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Wildseven

I’m at a loss... 3 weeks after dealership performed recall work, in traffic at a stop light. Light goes green, about 2nd gear in and car just shuts off and I coast off immediately to the right and have to push the car the rest of the way into a firehouse driveway. Fast forward, Subaru of Puyallup dealership and Subaru of America determine rod knock and repair will cost $17,000 and that recall work has no correlation to the failure. A goodwill gesture $2,000 owner loyalty coupon is offered and later, $2,500 is the best they could do towards a new car, not even a used. They can’t tell me the cause and say that it can just happen. I request pictures and Dealership says I can take my own. I take pictures and present it in email to Subaru of America and they say this is an issue between the Dealership and myself. Does anyone have any contacts that can escalate help with Subaru? I would greatly appreciate it.

Now THAT sucks big time -

I don't have any contacts, however, if that would happen to me, I'd take my case to the owner(s) of the dealership and request that they replace the engine, at their expense.


humfrz

[gravitylover]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

$17,000 to replace the motor on a 2013 BRZ? You gotta be kidding me. You can buy a whole 2013 car for less than that. Maybe a 2014 or 2015 or 2016. Then you won't have to worry about the recall.

You could probably buy mine for about 10k

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Snow27

I was quoted a bit over $13k for a complete engine, fwiw. Similar scenario as that poster for me, SoA says it’s between the dealer and myself, dealer says it can’t possibly be related (not that that makes any sense).

I'd go to a non-dealer for the work then if that was the requirement. (Frankly I would do that anyway, not because I don't trust the mechanics there but I don't need to pay the dealer tax on the work).

With a quick Google search I was able to find brand new short blocks for the FA20 for under $2,000 from dealers (parts only of course).

[Stomachbuzz]

Yall are missing the point entirely.

What he needs to do is contact a lawyer and join the rapidly-growing class action lawsuit for the valve spring issue.

Even if the class-action suit is not aimed at individual dealers, they will buck up quickly.

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz

Yall are missing the point entirely.

What he needs to do is contact a lawyer and join the rapidly-growing class action lawsuit for the valve spring issue.

Even if the class-action suit is not aimed at individual dealers, they will buck up quickly.

That doesn't really help him today. That could be years away....

[Opie]

He needs to file a claim with the shop garage liability insurance. They will investigate and find the cause of the failure...

[Wildseven]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

I was wondering that myself since the "normal" rate seems to be between $5K and $7K.
Maybe they have a spare 2JZ kicking around the shop they ware going to swap into it.

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

What are they planning to do for $17,000 that does not involve manufacturing a new car?

I kid you not, over the phone when the dealership stated that quote, I originally thought I misheard him, questioned it and he didn’t correct me. So within a 2 week timeframe, I was piecing together funds for $7,000, which I thought was steep to begin with. They call me back requesting an update and reaffirm it’s $17,000... My heart just about sank at my efforts. There’s a vid on YouTube, a quick search, titled to the effect of BRZ/Frs recall aftermath. He states that the technician that’s performing the recall work whilst removing the timing cover off, scraping the RTV gasket and not catching it, can fall into the motor and cause oil starvation. I’m not the most tech savvy when it comes to cars but did my best to locate the oil catch tube and took a pic. Am I taking crazy pills or does it look like gasket?

[Wildseven]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

$17,000 to replace the motor on a 2013 BRZ? You gotta be kidding me. You can buy a whole 2013 car for less than that. Maybe a 2014 or 2015 or 2016. Then you won't have to worry about the recall.

I even looked around and found a used 43K mileage WRB 13 for about $15,000 in the inventory of the 2nd closest Subaru Dealership. Referenced the VIN and checked online and was not part of the recall. Queried SOA if the dealership might be able to obtain it for me to use the Owner Loyalty Coupon and responds stating that dealerships can transfer and to ask their inventory specialist. I tell the dealership and the conversation leads to transferring a New 2020 BRZ. I tell them I’m perfectly happy with assistance into getting the transfer of the used one but they reaffirm the Coupon doesn’t apply to used cars. In my current situation, it’s not in my means to finance a new car. I only had about $4,000 left to pay mine off.

[Tcoat]

It is sealant. And it is just what made it back to the pan and pickup. That crap could be spread through the whole oil system. You are yet another victim of shoddy dealer work on this recall.

[Wildseven]

Originally Posted by Snow27

I was quoted a bit over $13k for a complete engine, fwiw. Similar scenario as that poster for me, SoA says it’s between the dealer and myself, dealer says it can’t possibly be related (not that that makes any sense).

Geez... Super frustrating. See if you can locate the oil catch tube and look for something similar to my pic. Also, they took apart my engine and now is in pieces inside a boxed pallet. They did their tear down diagnostic but would charge me for piecing it back together.

[Stomachbuzz]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

That doesn't really help him today. That could be years away....

Odd way to look at it, but ooooooookay...

Originally Posted by Opie

He needs to file a claim with the shop garage liability insurance. They will investigate and find the cause of the failure...

I was not actively aware that shops had insurance for this type of thing, but that sounds proper, and probably a well-kept secret by shops and dealers.

Offer to let them fix their mistake - because that's 100% what it is.
"Look, mistakes happen. I'm well aware. You aren't the first to ruin someone's engine with sloppy work. It's a very well documented issue. Here are some links, pictures, and evidence from a pretty legit class action lawsuit going on across the country.
But, like I said - no big deal. Just do what's right and we'll be best buds again, kay?"

And they'll balk, like they always do.
"NOPE! Wasn't us!"

And you say 'fine. I'll need to see your insurance information.'
And they'll act like no such thing exists.

So you have to stand firm.
"Alright. That's cool, I guess.... I'll just be waiting here until the county inspector (or whatever government official handles these things) to come by. I kinda thought it might go down like this, so I preemptively schedule them to meet today, between the 3 of us. He/she should be able to help us get this little misunderstanding all settled! No worries "

So you eventually get their insurance info.
Start a claim with insurance.
Rinse and repeat prior process with ins. co.

"No. Dealer is at zero fault. It's all your fault. You uh...intentionally took all the oil out and drove it at a Nascar event just to get a free replacement motor. Go away!"
And 90% of people would go away at that point.

So then you calmly ask for their email, or fax or whatever to submit all your evidence of the class action lawsuit.
And you just tell the adjustor:
"Look, we can do this the easy way, or we can do this the hard way. I know your job is tough. I get it. You got a boss to keep happy just like me. I'm just looking for the dealer to fix an honest mistake, and I'm willing to make it the easiest claim you've ever checked off. This is pretty open-and-shut. I think it's in everyone's best interest to have this go away."

And then cash the check.


EDIT:
Under no circumstances do you sign a damn thing from the dealer or accept a single dollar from them until this is 100% settled.
And "100% settled" means only 1 of a few things:
1) You get a new motor - installed - at zero cost to you
2) They write you a check for that $17k motor replacement cost, or them totaling the vehicle
3) They give you a new(ew) BRZ in exchange for the one they broke (yours) - at zero, or little cost to you. At by 'little' I mean like a $10 title transfer fee.

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz

Odd way to look at it, but ooooooookay...

Well, the immediate need was getting the car fixed or replaced, the class action isn't going to do that given the typical length of a simple class action is between two and three years, and this one is not "simple" at best, and dubious at worst (my opinion, no need to rehash all that).

I agree with what you are saying about the overall approach in your last post though, seems the best way to go.

I have to say that the fact Subaru seems to be unwilling to step in and help means I would never purchase another car, or lawn mower, from them.

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz

Yall are missing the point entirely.

What he needs to do is contact a lawyer and join the rapidly-growing class action lawsuit for the valve spring issue.

Even if the class-action suit is not aimed at individual dealers, they will buck up quickly.

Rule #1 of class action stuff, always consult your own personal legal counsel prior to joining a class action. Joining a class action often results in you loosing your rights to other legal actions.

Rule # 2 - Expect it to last 2x longer than you think and get nowhere near the $ you think you need/is needed to fix the situation.