Can someone please check my alignment specs?

[boring86]

Greetings ladies and gentlemen,

First of all I'm sorry if this thread is in the wrong section, I am new to the forum and I am trying to see some help for my wheel alignment.

I recently bought my first ever twin and couldn't wait to start making her look nice!

Since buying the car I have lowered it on Eibach Sportlines and installed some new 18" black Enkei RPF1's wrapped in Michelin Pilot Sport 4 225/40/18.

That's pretty much all I have done to my car, apart from what I have listed I haven't installed anything else.

I took my car the next day after installing my springs to get the rims and tyres fitted and the shop also done a front & rear wheel alignment for me.

Since dropping the car on the Eibcah Sportlines I saw a lot of negative camber at the back which I don't mind to be completely honest. I think it makes the car look more aggressive.

I have purchased some Whiteline camber bolts for the front and I plan to install them very soon to try and make it look similar to the back as the front is currently almost 0 camber.

This car is my daily and I do not plan on putting it on a track any time soon. But don't get me wrong, I have a heavy foot sometimes, and my foot just might slip off the clutch a few times... (In the appropriate locations of course ).

Basically what I'm trying to say is that I just want the car to handle at it's best for what I have installed.

So cutting to the chase.

After getting my wheels aligned I got the alignment sheet which tells me all my alignment specs on it. And to be completely honest with you, I'm still learning so I don't know what some of these numbers are supposed to look like...

I did not specify anything to the shop whilst getting my wheel alignment as I don't know much about this and I thought I would let the place do what it does best.

So could someone please have a look at the sheet I have attached and tell me if alignment looks alright?

I do plan on going to a more reputable wheel alignment shop after I install my front camber bolts, they said to me that they can adjust my camber and anything else I request. So if anyone has some tips as to what needs to be corrected that would be great.

I am not too fussed for tyre wear as long as it wears normal for the amount of camber I am running. I read on a few threads that if your toe is out of whack you will get pretty bad tyre wear, so if someone could also confirm what my toe is supposed to look like (if it isn't already normal) that would be great!

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by boring86

Greetings ladies and gentlemen,

First of all I'm sorry if this thread is in the wrong section, I am new to the forum and I am trying to see some help for my wheel alignment.

I recently bought my first ever twin and couldn't wait to start making her look nice!

Since buying the car I have lowered it on Eibach Sportlines and installed some new 18" black Enkei RPF1's wrapped in Michelin Pilot Sport 4 225/40/18.

That's pretty much all I have done to my car, apart from what I have listed I haven't installed anything else.

I took my car the next day after installing my springs to get the rims and tyres fitted and the shop also done a front & rear wheel alignment for me.

Since dropping the car on the Eibcah Sportlines I saw a lot of negative camber at the back which I don't mind to be completely honest. I think it makes the car look more aggressive.

I have purchased some Whiteline camber bolts for the front and I plan to install them very soon to try and make it look similar to the back as the front is currently almost 0 camber.

This car is my daily and I do not plan on putting it on a track any time soon. But don't get me wrong, I have a heavy foot sometimes, and my foot just might slip off the clutch a few times... (In the appropriate locations of course ).

Basically what I'm trying to say is that I just want the car to handle at it's best for what I have installed.

So cutting to the chase.

After getting my wheels aligned I got the alignment sheet which tells me all my alignment specs on it. And to be completely honest with you, I'm still learning so I don't know what some of these numbers are supposed to look like...

I did not specify anything to the shop whilst getting my wheel alignment as I don't know much about this and I thought I would let the place do what it does best.

So could someone please have a look at the sheet I have attached and tell me if alignment looks alright?

I do plan on going to a more reputable wheel alignment shop after I install my front camber bolts, they said to me that they can adjust my camber and anything else I request. So if anyone has some tips as to what needs to be corrected that would be great.

I am not too fussed for tyre wear as long as it wears normal for the amount of camber I am running. I read on a few threads that if your toe is out of whack you will get pretty bad tyre wear, so if someone could also confirm what my toe is supposed to look like (if it isn't already normal) that would be great!

Looks like Jax, I use Jax at Liverpool, have done for years, they are good but you need to to tell them what you want, and, more importantly, have the parts to get the required adjustments.

Personally, the alignment is off for a daily, it is hindered buy the lack of adjustment with the OEM parts.

Everyone will have a different opinion, all that matters though is how your alignment settings use your tyres. You want the most grip/contact patch with the least amount of camber.

To much toe wears tyres quick

Front camber bolts might get you where you need to be, camber wise at the front, for the street, maybe, all I got was about -1° with crash bolts.

You need adjustable LCA for the rear, maybe toe arms, maybe.

Below is my current street set up, works my 235/45 17 RE003's well at 34 psi.

I have MCA street performance coilovers, adjustable top hats on the front, Superpro adjustable rear LCA and adjustable toe arms, lowered 20mm from stock (my ride height was inspired by attached T86RS document, page 11, and from talking to a engineer).

Car runs well on the street and the twisties, i.e. Nasho, Macquarie Pass.

This setup would need to be different with stickier tyres and/or the track.

Excessive camber reduces traction.

Balance, RWD setups run best with a 0.5 difference between front and back, i.e. -2.0° front with -1.5° rear.

OEM caster is not adjustable.

Toe, whilst it does have wear issues can help with turn in and or stability, I like 0 toe on the street

In the end, it's how much OCD you have really, and your willingness to compromise.

[boring86]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

Looks like Jax, I use Jax at Liverpool, have done for years, they are good but you need to to tell them what you want, and, more importantly, have the parts to get the required adjustments.

Personally, the alignment is off for a daily, it is hindered buy the lack of adjustment with the OEM parts.

Everyone will have a different opinion, all that matters though is how your alignment settings use your tyres. You want the most grip/contact patch with the least amount of camber.

To much toe wears tyres quick

Front camber bolts might get you where you need to be, camber wise at the front, for the street, maybe, all I got was about -1° with crash bolts.

You need adjustable LCA for the rear, maybe toe arms, maybe.

Below is my current street set up, works my 235/45 17 RE003's well at 34 psi.

I have MCA street performance coilovers, adjustable top hats on the front, Superpro adjustable rear LCA and adjustable toe arms.

Car runs well on the street and the twisties, i.e. Nasho, Macquarie Pass.

This setup would need to be different with stickier tyres and/or the track.

Excessive camber reduces traction.

Balance, RWD setups run best with a 0.5 difference between front and back, i.e. -2.0° front with -1.5° rear.

OEM caster is not adjustable.

Toe, whilst it does have wear issues can help with turn in and or stability, I like 0 toe on the street

In the end, it's how much OCD you have really, and your willingness to compromise.

Thanks for the reply mate!

I actually had the alignment done at Tempe Tyres in Tempe after I put the wheels on. They must be using the same alignment system as Jax, because your readout layout looks identical to mine.

Was going to go to Bridgestone at Smithfield as it's the closest to my house but I could take a trip to Jax in Livo instead since you reckon they are pretty good.

To be honest as silly as it sounds I would rather just chew away at the rubber than buy control arms for the rear just to correct my camber (unless I can find the control arms for $300 or less), I kind of like how mean the stance is with around 2 degrees camber anyway.

I really don't mind having less camber at the front compared to the back because as I said earlier I'm not really tracking the car...

So since I'm not going to track her any time soon I should probably tell Jax to aim for 0 toe at the front and back as you mentioned?

Or is there a special number for the toe that I should be looking for with that much camber at the rear?

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by boring86

Thanks for the reply mate!

I actually had the alignment done at Tempe Tyres in Tempe after I put the wheels on. They must be using the same alignment system as Jax, because your readout layout looks identical to mine.

Was going to go to Bridgestone at Smithfield as it's the closest to my house but I could take a trip to Jax in Livo instead since you reckon they are pretty good.

To be honest as silly as it sounds I would rather just chew away at the rubber than buy control arms for the rear just to correct my camber (unless I can find the control arms for $300 or less), I kind of like how mean the stance is with around 2 degrees camber anyway.

I really don't mind having less camber at the front compared to the back because as I said earlier I'm not really tracking the car...

So since I'm not going to track her any time soon I should probably tell Jax to aim for 0 toe at the front and back as you mentioned?

Or is there a special number for the toe that I should be looking for with that much camber at the rear?

Get crash bolts and max out front, evenly

I would zero toe, but thats me.

http://racetrackdriving.com/car-setup/track-alignment/

You should be able to "fix" issues (understeer/oversteer/darty/stability) from lack of adjustment with your toe settings.

Have fun, don't sweat it

[boring86]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

Get crash bolts and max out front, evenly

I would zero toe, but thats me.

http://racetrackdriving.com/car-setup/track-alignment/

You should be able to "fix" issues (understeer/oversteer/darty/stability) from lack of adjustment with your toe settings.

Have fun, don't sweat it

Thanks for the advice man.

I bought these bolts from sparesbox:

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/wh...-type-r-kca416

Is that what you mean by crash bolts?

And I have been looking at videos and the instructions to install these but am still a little confused on how to install them.

Some say to stick them in the top and others say bottom, the instructions say the top hole though.

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by boring86

Thanks for the advice man.

I bought these bolts from sparesbox:

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/wh...-type-r-kca416

Is that what you mean by crash bolts?

And I have been looking at videos and the instructions to install these but am still a little confused on how to install them.

Some say to stick them in the top and others say bottom, the instructions say the top hole though.

16mm top hole

14mm bottom hole

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113222

[wparsons]

I'd go 0 toe up front, 1/16" total rear toe in in the rear (1/16" is about 1.6mm).