spun bearing after 200kms. edelbrock

[casing]

I installed my edelbrock last weekend, did a few data logs and car was running great. Drove her for 200 KMs this weekend before spinning a main bearing.


Engine had 52000 KMs on it, 2015 FRS.


Found a used engine locally and thinking of trying one more time, part of me just wants to just sell it all.

[jRuN]

Just a guy with a 2015 BRZ here talking... want to boost mine in the future. Definitely disconcerting how many posts there are of people spinning bearings and or bending rods.

How much boost? Were you at high load at a low rpm? What was the circumstances when it spun?

What's worse is hearing about this happening to built motors, wish there was a conclusive method to make these motors more bullet proof.

Sorry about your motor!

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[DarkPira7e]

@jRuN I'm curious what condition may have caused it as well. Load conditions at low rpm would be my guess if the rod broke, but for a bearing it's anyone's guess.

Who did you have tune the car? I see you said the datalogs looked good - who evaluated them? Typically, a spin bearing is a lubrication condition, not necessarily a tuning error. When is the last time you changed you oil?

[casing]

Tuner is reputable. Very well known. Dont want to say the name of the tuning company to avoid drama etc.


Driving fine all weekend, merged onto highway maybe 80% throttle. So boost was maybe 7-9 Lbs. Notice smoke pouring from vents, thought I was on fire so pulled over. No flames and popped hood. Noticed oil residue on my hood and on front timing cover, like the pullies slung oil around. There was no leaks, oil level was fine so tried to start it up but wouldn't start.


Waited 15 minutes and it fired up and ran great at idle, revved past 2k rpm and knocking like crazy. Luckily I was close to home so pushed it home. Tried starting it with the belt off just incase it was a pulley issue, nope. Engine is FUCKED.




I change my oil every 2 or 3000 kms. Could of been during tuing when it was running rich indumped too much fuel and fucked with my oil. But I've seen people beat the shit out of the setup I have with zero issues. I did a light pull onto the highway and it blew.

[86TOYO2k17]

Assuming installed and tuned appropriately. Its kind of just luck of the draw how long you go before it pops. Obviously certain factors contribute to it like how much boost, driving style (track or dd), fluid temps (driving easy not hitting any boost until fully warm, letting off and cooling down when to hot) downshifting to higher rpm instead of accelerating from low rpm especially in a higher gear. But even if you baby it and do everything perfect anything can happen. But tons of people with little to no issues for a very long time. Usually people only post about bad things rather then making a post for every time something good happens.

[elitegunslinger]

What weight oil were you running? Sounds like you developed rod knock once the motor started leaking (causing a low oil condition allowing the rod bearing to burn), this was probably a pre-existing condition you weren't aware of. Did you or a previous owner reseal the timing cover? Maybe a leak somewhere around it?


More than likely the crankshaft and rod is toast (if it is just one). Block might be fine, needs to be cleaned top to bottom and measured if reused.


The fastest way to get going though is a used complete motor; sell your damaged motor for $400. If you plan on staying boosted consider at minimum upgrading your rods and if you've got the engine open maybe upgraded valves.


Good luck.

[casing]

But here's the thing. It's not leaking. It was like pressure built up and shot oil out of something. My oil level is still fine.



I was still on 0w20. Oil temps were 100 C. There was no abrupt bang or noise, I only turned the car off because I smelled burning.



The car can run right now and there is no oil leaking from anywhere.

[casing]

I also went with this kit because its reliable and just gives it the extra kick. I didnt want a 500 horsepower race car.



Opening up an engine just for this kit was the last thing I wanted to do. I am very much tempted to just put a used engine in keep it stock and sell the kit.

[DarkPira7e]

If you only spun a bearing, there shouldn't be oil all over the place. Something else happened

[Summerwolf]

Where did the oil come from specifically?

[Grady]

Originally Posted by casing

Opening up an engine just for this kit was the last thing I wanted to do. I am very much tempted to just put a used engine in keep it stock and sell the kit.

Stock engines blow. However if you are not willing to accept the possibility of blowing an engine do not boost it.

I am with everyone else. There is something else wrong. A spun bearing does not cause oil to come out, at least not until the rod gives up and goes through the side of the block.

There has to be an installation issue or something strange.

[elitegunslinger]

Originally Posted by casing

But here's the thing. It's not leaking. It was like pressure built up and shot oil out of something. My oil level is still fine.



I was still on 0w20. Oil temps were 100 C. There was no abrupt bang or noise, I only turned the car off because I smelled burning.



The car can run right now and there is no oil leaking from anywhere.

Originally Posted by casing

I also went with this kit because its reliable and just gives it the extra kick. I didnt want a 500 horsepower race car.



Opening up an engine just for this kit was the last thing I wanted to do. I am very much tempted to just put a used engine in keep it stock and sell the kit.

Because oil exists in your wet sump doesn't mean you didn't lose oil pressure; your oil pump is in your timing cover. If you lost pressure there, nothing else is receiving oil. Your rod bearings were starved and caused rod knock.


Without splitting the block I can't be 100% certain but that's what it sounds like.

[jRuN]

Is there a solution to the oiling issues these motors encounter when boosted? Upgraded oil pump, gear? Better pickup tube, baffle? it would be real nice to be able to build the motor and upgrade the oil components and be done with it.. rather than go through the process of building the motor, boosting it and still suffer oiling issues.

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[elitegunslinger]

Originally Posted by jRuN

Is there a solution to the oiling issues these motors encounter when boosted? Upgraded oil pump, gear? Better pickup tube, baffle? it would be real nice to be able to build the motor and upgrade the oil components and be done with it.. rather than go through the process of building the motor, boosting it and still suffer oiling issues.

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Baffle, different pickup tube, bigger oil pan, dry sump, accusump, there are options out there but it gets costly. This failure is much less common than the typical bent rod due to boost.


This sounds like a catastrophic failure of something either in the pulley system or a seal up front. The smoke coming into the car sounds like oil hitting the headers below. I'm unsure of how long the car ran like this but it wouldn't take long if oil pressure was lost.